It will run with the MAF disconnected (or removed) if you use EFILive or HPT to switch the PCM into Speed Density (open-loop) mode. The PCM is reverted to the onboard Volumetric Efficiency (VE) table to calculate fueling. This is how I street-tuned my heads/cam setup on my '02 years ago - I disconnected the MAF connector and drove at various rpm/load levels while logging on the a laptop to optimize the air/fuel. Took several hours of iterating to do this before switching the MAF back on for the final tuning. A lot of FI guys run strictly Speed Density to remove the limitations of the MAF on high boost applications.

 

Any chance you have a cheap obd dongle you can log from the maf with to see what is doing? When doing the stereo, I tapped into the brown ignition wire for power to my head unit.

 

I hooked up my scanner but it wouldn't connect to my pcm. Thanks for the advice on the ignition wire.

 

Pulling and posting your codes may help others give you some direction. Is your security light on?

 

Yes the security light is on.

 

Like Kelly said. Fix what you know is wrong first ! That might not be it but the act of fixing it could give you the clue that will.

 

No disrespect, Evil Twin, but yes it will. Yesterday I removed my air bridge along with the MAF and radiator shroud to chase down a radiator leak. Once fixed, car started up just fine (02) and ran all the way to operating temperature before I shut it down. Restarted it this morning without the MAF connected and it fired right up (but did have a check engine light.) Also, I am running stock tuning (to my knowledge.)

 

Lets go back to the BASICS and pull up ALL the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) using the internal on board diagnostics that GM Provided you.

Here is what you need to do to read ALL the DTCs from the drivers seat. Once you have ALL that info, post up all the DTCs and we can leed guide and direct from there.

NOTE! If you have a TON of DTCs, I recommend CLEARING ALL of them and then read it again and see what comes back. Post up that info. Here is an example of what you need to post:

10 PCM P-0103 H

If we have that info, we can help you get through this.

Bill

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

Hey all,
Sorry for not posting back sooner. I ended up figuring out the problem. I was missing one of my PCM fuses. As soon as I replaced it all of the codes disappeared and the Vette started right up. Haven't had a problem since. Thanks for all of the helpful tips.

 

That reminds me of when I forgot to reconnect the interior fuse box after a rebuild. I drove me nuts until I found the wire berried.

 

Hmmmmmmm, something to be said for leaving the car stock!!! Maybe exhaust and stuff like that. But anything involving ....WIRES and what the connect to........no thanks.

 

I was lucky a few months ago. I was installing a CAI and had the MAF in the house where it was warmer working on changing the rubber coupler on it and trying to be very careful not to let it fly out of my hand and that's exactly what it did! It flew clear across the kitchen and hit the floor hard and I thought "well that's it for that thing" but I went ahead and put it all together and everything worked fine. I can't believe I didn't destroy it, Just lucky I guess

 

Any increase in performance? Thinking you might have discovered a new inexpensive performance mod!!!

 

MAFs aren't that fragile. Just don't break those resistors inside. I was told that my car wasn't starting because I used a damp rag to clean the resistors and thar if you touch them they break. That's a lie, I'm in school for electrical engineering as we speak and that's not going to hurt a resistor. Just make sure it's dry before install. And don't poor water on it.

 

You don't need a MAF to start the car.

It does have a element in it that needs to be free from debris to work properly.

 

ET knows what he's talking about.
why in the world did you not just do one task at a time instead of two or three?
Complicating your tasks is not wise.