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Hmmmmm. I'm thinking I'm not going to overthink it. I'll check the cylinder walls with the cam and look it over really well. Then dump it in the car lol.
It came out running. Should be good to go back in. The less I touch with my lack of experience in this area the better lol.
okay, Spin the motor using the starter with the plugs out so it doesnt make compression. Use a battery on a charger so you dont kill a battery or the starter. Low voltage will create high current condition in the starter and heat it up, killing it,. So... good voltage, good battery, good starter.
Mount the engine somewhere so it doesnt fall or roll or tumble or whatever. use a chains if you have to.
Take the plugs out, do a compression test with oil in the engine.
Then spin it and check the mechanical oil pressure from the upper rear valley port to verify the 38~ psi I believe should be there minimum.
Finally... NEVER take the engine apart. Do NOT open a good OEM engine. If the engine is OEM inside. You will not want to disturb those bearings or crush. They are probably mint if the engine was never tuned wrong or abused. Better not to find out. This is why you do the compression and oil tests... and a leakdown if you can to find leaky valves or broken rings or something else.
so
leakdown
compression
oil pressure
do NOT dissemble
Replace as many gaskets as you can (rear main front main valve cover etc... ) while its out
If it ran when it came out, personally I would replace the rear main seal, the crank seal, oil pan upper gasket, valve cover gasket and bolt grommets (only if they look like they're leaking - easy enough to do later), and ship it. I wouldn't be opening anything.
BUT he didnt see it nor hear it run. It has apparently set some time. Im just playing devil’s advocate here. I went through almost the same stuff he did, bought a new short block then decided to have it fully assembled by professional to long block to hopefully be sure of the out come. Still has some bugs to work out.
Nothing new. i have the new motor ready to go in, and i have the accessories off the old motor and it's ready to come out. next week for sure this is going down lol.
We had to put our dog down on monday and my wife's been an absolute wreck. he helped her through 2 tough post pardums and through some depression with the girls' diagnosis. so i haven't been able to get down to the garage much.
However, parts are arriving lol
Proform valve covers
Coil relocation mounts
FAST 92
LS2 throttle body and wiring adapter
FAST fuel rails
Should at least look the part once it's in haha.
Sorry to hear about your dog and other personal issues.....The car is certainly not priority one.....Good luck with the new engine and install...
Last edited by tabbruzz; Jul 29, 2020 at 04:42 PM.
Nothing new. i have the new motor ready to go in, and i have the accessories off the old motor and it's ready to come out. next week for sure this is going down lol.
We had to put our dog down on monday and my wife's been an absolute wreck. he helped her through 2 tough post pardums and through some depression with the girls' diagnosis. so i haven't been able to get down to the garage much.
However, parts are arriving lol
Proform valve covers
Coil relocation mounts
FAST 92
LS2 throttle body and wiring adapter
FAST fuel rails
Should at least look the part once it's in haha.
Sorry to heat about your dog and other personal issues.....The car is certainly not priority one.....Good luck with the new engine and install...
I grabbed one of the BTR chain dampeners too. a guy had one for sale for 30 bucks so why not. I know they're not much more new but it was basically new.
Alright, so it's ready to go back in. Progress has been super slow because i haven't had weekends to put it in. I've been taking the kiddo's to my parents place on Conneaut Lake. They've been going crazy not doing normal kid stuff.
But clutch is installed, i put a new pilot bearing and new monster modified flywheel bolts. Pulling the old ones out one stripped. that was a pain. I ended up starting to drill it out and then had an epiphany. pounded a spare torx socket into the hole and was able to pull it out (old jeep trick)
Using the actual input shaft like you did to align the clutch will save a TON of frustration.
As close as those plastic alignment tools are, they SUCK....
+1... was rebuilding my torque tube anyways, and postponed fully putting it back together until the clutch went in. It's still a good choice to make sure the input shaft has "jiggle room" before starting to tighten the PP bolts.
+1... was rebuilding my torque tube anyways, and postponed fully putting it back together until the clutch went in. It's still a good choice to make sure the input shaft has "jiggle room" before starting to tighten the PP bolts.
So i did the initial PP bolt torque (like 20 ft/lb) then slide the input shaft in and out a couple times. then again at the end made sure it slides in/out easily. Hopefully it goes back in easy too lol. we'll see... fingers are crossed haha.
The question is... Do i put the motor in and bolt to the bellhousing... or do i put the bellhousing on the motor and bolt to the TT... we'll see... hopefully it'll be in this weekend.
Last edited by 2k2wranglerx; Aug 13, 2020 at 12:38 PM.
Id add the bell housing to the engine before sititing it back in. Then bolt the TT to the bell housing
Agreed.
I had some challenges getting the TT clamped back to the bellhousing due to the difficulty in compressing the slave cylinder. There's so much anxiety with using the bolts to draw it in...
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That's just an incredible amount of damage! Glad you have the new motor ready to go. Good luck with everything going forward.
