I would totally do that if they had them in stock lol

 

DAMN - that sucks! I bought mine last Friday - soooooo, maybe my fault? Sorry not sorry? lol. That summit option DSKinsler threw up may work also.

 

Cinci, can you PM me who that was?

 

That freaking sucks! Are there options to have the messed up one rebuilt?

 

Is there a shortage or something with the LS2 TBs? Why are they suddenly skyrocketing in price?

 

yeah since they stopped making them.

 

Ahhh didn't realize that. Figured they'd still make them under GM Performance Parts or something. Interesting.

 

Fo' Sho'

RockAuto has a rebuild service for them if you search under a 2005 / 2006 Corvette 6.0l, but it's $295! It's the same price as I bought the new one for, which seems crazy.

In the end it's my fault for buying a used part - that's the risk you take when it's what you choose. Every part I put back on the motor was new aside from Injectors, fuel rail (my original), and TB. Two of them I bought from other people, and had to have the injectors rebuilt and the TB is a paper weight. I know better, but both aren't made anymore and it seemed like the best combo. In the end I spent more than if I would have bought FIC injectors and a Nick Williams TB. Not sure how many times I have to learn this lesson in life.

 

I snagged a like new unit from AJG87!!!! He's sending that out tomorrow.

pretty pumped that worked out!

 

Hows it coming? Got any further on the original engine? I saw and responded to the instagram photo of piston pieces

 

Just a thought you might consider,

When I get a random engine and intent to put it into a car (done this 100+ times over the last 20 years)
Of course compression test it. Pull the heads etc.. as necessary and so forth. You don't need me to tell you that.

but here is something I have been given to doing that nobody ever mentions. Throw some oil in it with the plugs out, and spin it over, verify the oil pressure is good and solid from the back, this will give you the knowledge of whether the engine when it was run last had good oil pressure or not. SOmetimes the o-ring or pickup fails and the motor ran with no/low oil for some time and you would never figure that out because you would replace the pump and o-ring properly without every finding out there was a problem.
Then, once you see good oil pressure for a while, I would spin it in say 20 second intervals for as many revolutions as it takes to fully circulate the oil, send the oil for a $30 analysis right away.

oil pressure confirmation + oil analysis will show if there is some significant residual damage done by previous owners allowing you to potentially avoid making a mistake.
I only do this to expensive engines or engines with extensive mods. A stock engine from say a truck with 150k doesn't need such treatment. But throw a bunch of aftermarket parts in one and you have a huge question mark "how clean was the installation" and ":how much wear and tear occured due to XYZ" and so forth. Can be quickly confirmed using analysis and spot checking as opposed to installing it and finding out it has a knock or something dumb.

 

Nothing new. i have the new motor ready to go in, and i have the accessories off the old motor and it's ready to come out. next week for sure this is going down lol.

We had to put our dog down on monday and my wife's been an absolute wreck. he helped her through 2 tough post pardums and through some depression with the girls' diagnosis. so i haven't been able to get down to the garage much.

However, parts are arriving lol
Proform valve covers
Coil relocation mounts
FAST 92
LS2 throttle body and wiring adapter
FAST fuel rails

Should at least look the part once it's in haha.

 

are you just using the starter and a battery to spin the motor?

 

I would think just pull the fuse for fuel pump and key it. Good way to prime it too before first fire. Never done it with plugs out, but did to move oil everywhere after we swapped a good LS1 into a Camaro that popped its original.

 

With the motor not in the car, I would be very very tempted to disassemble, hone the cylinders and deck the block, I nstall new bearings / rings / gaskets, and reassemble. Then you have a new motor and know exactly what’s inside.

 

the motor's out of the car. that's why i was asking. he was saying do this before i put it in.

I'm tempted... but i also am tempted to toss it in and send it. it's an evening's worth of work with a buddy to get this in. If it has an issue it's 408 bottom end time with these trick flow heads lol.

 

The more I think about it, Im with Cinci. Id have it taken apart professionally inspected, new bearings through out, honed and decked, then put back together to a full long block ready to go and then drop it in. While you do have a nice set of heads on your hands, I would think they being built and designed for a LS1/6, they would not be that great for the 408. With the money you spent on the new engine and having it professionally inspected and overhauled...you are still less into it than a 408 short block....and it leaves you with a basically new freah engine right there. With the time and money spent on the rest of the car, and all the other stuff, its just a nice peace of mind type thing.

 

And whatever ya do, don’t spin that motor over with the starter, even if it’s on a stand. Short of being on a dyno cradle you will run the chance of it toppling over. Many years ago my old man and I built motors to fund our drag racing / c3 restoration habits and built a fair number of circle track setups. Well safe to say dirt track racers aren’t the sharpest cats out there, and we watched a guy dump his $15k motor that was on a stand on its side in his garage because he wanted to check the compression with the starter while arguing with us about over-revving it to 9000 rpm.

 

okay, Spin the motor using the starter with the plugs out so it doesnt make compression. Use a battery on a charger so you dont kill a battery or the starter. Low voltage will create high current condition in the starter and heat it up, killing it,. So... good voltage, good battery, good starter.

Mount the engine somewhere so it doesnt fall or roll or tumble or whatever. use a chains if you have to.
Take the plugs out, do a compression test with oil in the engine.
Then spin it and check the mechanical oil pressure from the upper rear valley port to verify the 38~ psi I believe should be there minimum.

Finally... NEVER take the engine apart. Do NOT open a good OEM engine. If the engine is OEM inside. You will not want to disturb those bearings or crush. They are probably mint if the engine was never tuned wrong or abused. Better not to find out. This is why you do the compression and oil tests... and a leakdown if you can to find leaky valves or broken rings or something else.
so
leakdown
compression
oil pressure

do NOT dissemble
Replace as many gaskets as you can (rear main front main valve cover etc... ) while its out

that is it

 

I would not open a factory engine, put it in, prime it with oil, and fire it up. Like you said, the labor to get it in and out on your own is minimal.