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collusion? 😂 corvettetops told me that they don’t use a coated lens like gm. It is uncoated which has me concerned for scratches etc. while the acyrlic coat can peel over time (took mine 20 years) it is protective.
they also said that the top “looks stock to most people.” I would like mine to look exactly like stock which is what melrose has stated. Corvettetops does offer a coated lens for an additional charge, so really that super low eBay price is not that low once you add in the additional cost. Finally, corvettetops doesn’t have the blue tinted lens as melrose does which is what mine is and what I believe was stock. Was the smoke tinted color an option? I’ve only ever seen the blue tint from gm.
This is a lot easier to fix than you think. Search "My Targa Top Refurbish" and you'll see my top before and after. I had NEVER tried anything like that before, and it came out great. Did it over a weekend with total time of about 5hrs. I did it all by hand, but if a variable speed orbital polisher was used it would go a lot faster.
This is a lot easier to fix than you think. Search "My Targa Top Refurbish" and you'll see my top before and after. I had NEVER tried anything like that before, and it came out great. Did it over a weekend with total time of about 5hrs. I did it all by hand, but if a variable speed orbital polisher was used it would go a lot faster.
I have seen these tops repaired by hand and it is possible.
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Yes, refurbishing the top can be a DIY project, but if you are not confident in your ability to make it come out right, just go with a vendor like Melrose and have it perfect.
Yes, refurbishing the top can be a DIY project, but if you are not confident in your ability to make it come out right, just go with a vendor like Melrose and have it perfect.
do certain “vendors” pay for advertising on this site? If so, is there a list of those vendors? Seems unusual for an admin to push sales of a particular vendor. Thanks.
I’m really not sure sanding them down will really fix all the issues with an older top.
Mine randomly got a whole bunch of crazing through it. Like looking though old plastic in the hard sun from underneath. Think ultra fine spiderwebbed or cracked look.
Im not sure if its the Lexan itself or a thin tint layer within the sandwich construction.
I was going to wrap mine, then decided to see if I could bring it back to life. I'm telling you it's a lot easier than you think. If I was able to do it, ANYONE can!!
I'm knee deep in the middle of refurbishing mine. Not only was my clear coat outter layer bad, I had crazy, spider web cracking, throughout. I have been following the advice of other members here. I am 3 hours in using 400 grit, mainly with a vibrating (not dual acction) sander and by hand. I still have quite a bit of crazing on the drivers side. I hope it's not too deep where I ruin the top. I figure if I do, I will send it off for a pro refurbish. Once I get the crazing out, I will go out to 600 then 800 grit by hand, before I take it in for a clear coating. Wish me luck.
So the top layer that was peeling came off already and now you’re sanding to get out the crazing?
Also, just FYI, I called a couple body shops about having them clear coat mine after sanding. They said they would do it, but more often than not the clear will crack they said. They both recommended to just leave it without a coating.
Yes, the top layer of clear is very easy to sand off with 800 grit wet sanding. If you have crazing, some people call it starburts etc, that is a different story. I had nothing to lose going with heavier paper. My top was a 3 out of 10. The consensous of the forum, if you reasearch, is to use a UV resistant clear. I have heard of people not clearing it though.
Yeah, I didn't clear mine. I used Carnuba wax. on it. Wow! The coarsest grit I used was 1000 grit, then 1500, and finally finished it off with 2000 grit, and all I used was a sanding block. Then I used McGuires medium cut, and finished it off with Mcguires fine cut.