Time to change the engine
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
What year is your engine? I guess you have to pass smog in AZ no?
If it were mine id go easy on the cam and as said talk to someone who can explain why they are recommending what they choose.
When I start hearing "Get a stage 2 bootlicker" crap like that I stop listening. That says nothing really. playing with seat timing can make a noticeable difference.
Dont overcam it!! If it were mine Id get something around the 220ish@050, port the heads myself, good valve job, touch up the intake and call it a day. If you need more throw a supercharger on it. Should have good manners, nice bump in power and most importantly longevity. I cannot stand fast ramp cams they make noise and tear things up.
If it were mine id go easy on the cam and as said talk to someone who can explain why they are recommending what they choose.
When I start hearing "Get a stage 2 bootlicker" crap like that I stop listening. That says nothing really. playing with seat timing can make a noticeable difference.
Dont overcam it!! If it were mine Id get something around the 220ish@050, port the heads myself, good valve job, touch up the intake and call it a day. If you need more throw a supercharger on it. Should have good manners, nice bump in power and most importantly longevity. I cannot stand fast ramp cams they make noise and tear things up.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Oviedo Florida
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I have been warned that the sleeves are so thin that it may not be repairable. I am also thinking the bottom end is not typically problematic on these. I just got lucky. The main reason is the replacement is a fairly low mileage, my build will be pretty mild, and it raises price significantly to do the bottom. Honestly I would love to, but don’t want to put this on a credit card and I have about a 5K cap on what I can spend at the moment. I am spending about 2K on the new engine, about $300 for the 243 heads plus about another 3 to have them checked and prepped and reassembled for install, plus a gasket and seals set for a couple hundred, harmonic balancer is another $400 or so, a clutch set will be close to a grand, cam kit around $1000 all in, you get the idea. I would just wait and save a little longer but I daily drive this car and count on it for transportation. Honestly I may just drop the new engine in as is only swapping the heads and let it go at that. When things pick up for me in a year or so hopefully, a great crate motor or full on rebuild will be much easier to come by. I am just not willing to go into debt to do this. Doing a bottom end build will be a minimum of $3000 from everywhere I have seen...
All that being said, I am very open minded here. If someone has a viable option for me coming in at around $5K I would be grateful for the information...
All that being said, I am very open minded here. If someone has a viable option for me coming in at around $5K I would be grateful for the information...
forged pistons etc 470 hp/455 torq with a 30 month/50.000 mile warrenty. Yes its a LS 346 cu.
$5200 and some change. Pace Performance. I know thats not the cheapest but you should do
more homework. No thanks needed a ...Senior Hot Rodder.
Good luck
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 4,308
Likes: 3,455
From: Somewhere, Florida
St. Jude Donor '20-'21-'22-'23-'24
I personally think the Texas Speed 228R is the best cam for the LS1. Add in the 243 heads and a LS6 intake manifold and you have a great set up that will have you a little over 400 to the tire and with a set of 4:10 gears you should be rollin pretty quick in my opinion.
+1 for a chain dampener. One of the things I didn't do and wished I did.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 377
From: SW Ohio
One thing to budget for as people tell you what you should do as though there is only one option, is the need for the dyno tune at around $700.
Build that new motor the way YOU feel is right with quality parts, tune it, and send it.
Build that new motor the way YOU feel is right with quality parts, tune it, and send it.
Last edited by CinciZ06; Aug 2, 2020 at 08:36 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 139
From: Surprise AZ
I am really trying to avoid going to an iron block. Don’t want the weight. Most of the all aluminum stuff I have found as a crate starts at about 7K. I know its only 2K more than I am budgeting, but as a wise man once told me $1 might as well be a million if you don’t have it.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,000
Likes: 386
From: Chandler AZ
What if you bought a used L92 6.2 (truck version of LS3) out of a wrecked Escalade or Denali, do a cam for it and used LS3 intake.
Guess you would need a Lingenfelter conversion box, and other adapter stuff for wiring.
With headers and a good tune the "low buck LS3" would have more potential than a LS1 with LS6 heads.
I see them for sale for about 2500 maybe more maybe less.
Still aluminum block.
Ah LS1 is probably much easier and cheaper.
I remember you, once I came back and asked if any updates.
Glad you are getting car fixed.
Guess you would need a Lingenfelter conversion box, and other adapter stuff for wiring.
With headers and a good tune the "low buck LS3" would have more potential than a LS1 with LS6 heads.
I see them for sale for about 2500 maybe more maybe less.
Still aluminum block.
Ah LS1 is probably much easier and cheaper.
I remember you, once I came back and asked if any updates.
Glad you are getting car fixed.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 139
From: Surprise AZ
What if you bought a used L92 6.2 (truck version of LS3) out of a wrecked Escalade or Denali, do a cam for it and used LS3 intake.
Guess you would need a Lingenfelter conversion box, and other adapter stuff for wiring.
With headers and a good tune the "low buck LS3" would have more potential than a LS1 with LS6 heads.
I see them for sale for about 2500 maybe more maybe less.
Still aluminum block.
Ah LS1 is probably much easier and cheaper.
I remember you, once I came back and asked if any updates.
Glad you are getting car fixed.
Guess you would need a Lingenfelter conversion box, and other adapter stuff for wiring.
With headers and a good tune the "low buck LS3" would have more potential than a LS1 with LS6 heads.
I see them for sale for about 2500 maybe more maybe less.
Still aluminum block.
Ah LS1 is probably much easier and cheaper.
I remember you, once I came back and asked if any updates.
Glad you are getting car fixed.
Last edited by Nyt_Muves; Aug 4, 2020 at 02:38 AM. Reason: Month not week.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,000
Likes: 386
From: Chandler AZ
Then shop did leak down test and found that cylinder leaking at around 80%, it seems that extra blowby was causing the pressure pushing out of gaskets/seals.
There is a few pics of piston or rings from a scope tool but I couldn't really see what exactly what it was that wrong, looked like maybe carbon buildup near ring gap at top of piston.
I could be wrong.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 139
From: Surprise AZ
pictures of the inside of the cylinder, then using computer (bro in law is a mechanic) we were able to track it to cyl 1 0300 code. Then we tried shutting off cyl 1 with the computer and it didn’t change how it ran at all. That cylinder was weak for a couple years I just didn’t have the $ to fix. It just got way worse about a month ago. CEL flashes now. We swapped coils and injectors to eliminate those things.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 139
From: Surprise AZ
I read his original thread from about Halloween of 2017, he was having major oil leaks and shop put in new rear main seal and other gaskets, still leaking oil.
Then shop did leak down test and found that cylinder leaking at around 80%, it seems that extra blowby was causing the pressure pushing out of gaskets/seals.
There is a few pics of piston or rings from a scope tool but I couldn't really see what exactly what it was that wrong, looked like maybe carbon buildup near ring gap at top of piston.
I could be wrong.
Then shop did leak down test and found that cylinder leaking at around 80%, it seems that extra blowby was causing the pressure pushing out of gaskets/seals.
There is a few pics of piston or rings from a scope tool but I couldn't really see what exactly what it was that wrong, looked like maybe carbon buildup near ring gap at top of piston.
I could be wrong.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 139
From: Surprise AZ
While working on the car a 3 years a jack stand collapsed and punched a hole. I have a replacement fender but it’s white. So headlight covers hood bumper cover and fenders will be going in for some paint while I have it apart. Finally get to put the car right again. Like previously mentioned, 3 kids in college. My car has not been the priority. Family first. Now I have the ability and I’m very excited. I really love the car. Just love the fam more.
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While you have it out, I would definitely do a heads/cam upgrade.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 139
From: Surprise AZ
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 139
From: Surprise AZ
I think I am going to go for the 228R Texas Speed cam and setup. I was looking at the 224R initially but I see very little difference in the drivability, however, the 228 appears to produce a consistent 7-8 horsepower over the 224. I am going to do the 14 duration for a little smoother idle and the power up the band a little bit. The lift is the same on both, so the heads are sprung properly for either. Seems like a great way to go.
I am picking up the heads tomorrow! Very excited about that. Just a few more things to gather and I can start reassembling the new engine.
I am picking up the heads tomorrow! Very excited about that. Just a few more things to gather and I can start reassembling the new engine.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 324
From: Morristown, TN
I think I am going to go for the 228R Texas Speed cam and setup. I was looking at the 224R initially but I see very little difference in the drivability, however, the 228 appears to produce a consistent 7-8 horsepower over the 224. I am going to do the 14 duration for a little smoother idle and the power up the band a little bit. The lift is the same on both, so the heads are sprung properly for either. Seems like a great way to go.
I am picking up the heads tomorrow! Very excited about that. Just a few more things to gather and I can start reassembling the new engine.
I am picking up the heads tomorrow! Very excited about that. Just a few more things to gather and I can start reassembling the new engine.