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Good luck with your project C5. Looks like you are off to a good start. This forum is a great resource for just about anything C5. Best wishes and keep us posted as you progress.
I vacuumed, wiped and treated all surfaces to assess the condition, interior is in better condition than I thought. I still need to shampoo the carpet, steam the crevices and vents, pull the seats, etc.
Other than the cut in the driver seat and a chunk of carpet missing in the trunk, I see no other issues. I did order a shift boot and ring.
over all I think it’s coming along well, also hold struts and driver regulator was replaced today.
Last edited by knockingdiesel; Jan 20, 2021 at 09:17 PM.
Nice to see a neglected C5 being rescued. Best of luck with the project and it looks like a nice car to bring back. The interior really came out well and once painted your '99 Coupe will look great again. I can't wait to see pictures after the repaint.
How does the clutch feel?
Nice to see a neglected C5 being rescued. Best of luck with the project and it looks like a nice car to bring back. The interior really came out well and once painted your '99 Coupe will look great again. I can't wait to see pictures after the repaint.
How does the clutch feel?
Clutch feels ok but I am putting money aside for when it goes. I’ll be doing LT headers soon and that may be when the clutch dies 😈
Clutch feels ok but I am putting money aside for when it goes. I’ll be doing LT headers soon and that may be when the clutch dies 😈
With a C5 it's a good idea to have the headers ceramic coated and to protect the spark plug wires and any wiring, electrical connectors and brake lines that are near the header tubes from the heat. Easiest to do this after removing the stock exhaust manifolds and before installing the headers.
Replace all the radiator bushings (one was missing) with prothane and replaced the hazard light switch (intermittent turn signal) Which wasn’t as bad as I thought it was gonna be.
Originally Posted by Mike98SilVert
With a C5 it's a good idea to have the headers ceramic coated and to protect the spark plug wires and any wiring, electrical connectors and brake lines that are near the header tubes from the heat. Easiest to do this after removing the stock exhaust manifolds and before installing the headers.
Thanks for the tip. Looking at pace setter or jba ceramic coated
So I’m doing the clutch, flywheel, slave and master cylinder. I’ll be installing a remote bleed too. I’m thinking rear main seal while I’m there. Anything else while most of the drivetrain is out? Headers will probably be going in same time. Just need some warm weather.
Well when replacing the window regulator I broke the last functional clip on the door panel. So I had some time to pull the speakers and panels and repair the broken tabs.
I used nylon washers and epoxy to repair the speaker tabs and let them dry over night. I repaired the broken slots on the door panels and inserted new clips.
I also repaired the shift boot ring while I was at it.
Hopefully this takes care of the squeaks/rattles in the door. I’m also using butyl tape and 3.5mil plastic sheet to make new vapor barriers since the old ones all but dust. I also dropped off the sun visors to have the floppy ears fixed.
Those are the bearings for 2000 and later snap ring torque tubes. For a 1999 non-snap ring torque tube you need one (1) 6007, one (1) 6008, and one (1) 6010 bearing, along with two (2) GM 12456212 couplers, and one (1) GM 12456208 oil slinger -- kind of flimsy and easy to deform. The couplers can be had a couple of places, run about $135 each at RockAuto, bearings from all sorts of sources, even the for sale section, which is self promotion on my part...
They beat me to the punch with the SKF part numbers. I had opened my Amazon order history while scrolling, lol.
It sounds like you know what you're doing. In the weather where you are you may not need to worry as much about this as the rest of us do, but it is wise on these older cars to refresh the ground connections under the hood and inside the door sills.
I am digging this common sense, ground up effort to get the car back to fun-worthy.
I'll offer this one while you've got the drivetrain out. Absolutely look into a transmission mount. Some call it a brace. Pfadt made the first one and it totally solved the drivetrain shake on my cars. Newer guys sell them for a lot less on the C5 Modified and other pages on facebook. One is HPI. There are others. Cheap insurance vs shaking those old cases apart on launch.
Those are the bearings for 2000 and later snap ring torque tubes. For a 1999 non-snap ring torque tube you need one (1) 6007, one (1) 6008, and one (1) 6010 bearing, along with two (2) GM 12456212 couplers, and one (1) GM 12456208 oil slinger -- kind of flimsy and easy to deform. The couplers can be had a couple of places, run about $135 each at RockAuto, bearings from all sorts of sources, even the for sale section, which is self promotion on my part...
Looks like I’ll be returning a 6008 bearing. No biggie, better to have and not need. I just ordered a 6010. Thank you for letting me know.
Originally Posted by Tusc
They beat me to the punch with the SKF part numbers. I had opened my Amazon order history while scrolling, lol.
It sounds like you know what you're doing. In the weather where you are you may not need to worry as much about this as the rest of us do, but it is wise on these older cars to refresh the ground connections under the hood and inside the door sills.
I am digging this common sense, ground up effort to get the car back to fun-worthy.
I'll offer this one while you've got the drivetrain out. Absolutely look into a transmission mount. Some call it a brace. Pfadt made the first one and it totally solved the drivetrain shake on my cars. Newer guys sell them for a lot less on the C5 Modified and other pages on facebook. One is HPI. There are others. Cheap insurance vs shaking those old cases apart on launch.
Thank you for the tip.
I always bought the cheapest of the cheap and restored them to former glory. A nice C5 goes for $15k +/-? I have a third of that invested. All said and done I’ll be in this car $7.5k or so. Sure I could find one with lower miles (twice the money) but this one I’ll know inside and out.
I kinda like it as it is though, it makes a good shop truck and don’t have to worry about parking or covering it 😀.
Clutch kit should be here soon. Master, slave, lines and remote bleed will be installed along with rear main and rebuilt torque tube.
I can’t wait to paint it but it’s so cold it’ll be a little while. Meanwhile while I’ll be working as often as I can to keep moving forward. I know a lot of people will disagree but I’ll be painting this out side. I’ve done several vehicles like this, the most recent being my BMW. I’ve done complete cars and parts like this for a long time.
I will be disassembling the bumpers, fenders, etc. for paint. I’ll end up doing 3 coats of BC/CC.
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