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Great for tire rotations and other service items too. The caster mod made it easier for me to move the quickjack around the garage. Also I recommend the extension kit if you have a longer wheelbase - SUVs.
My friends and I keep talking about how we need one of those. I'll need the 7000 with the truck adapters for my daily, but it will be nice to finally be able to get the car up into the air safely. I've yet to find a shop who can change the oil in the thing without overfilling it, so it will be nice to actually get it right.
Great for tire rotations and other service items too. The caster mod made it easier for me to move the quickjack around the garage. Also I recommend the extension kit if you have a longer wheelbase - SUVs.
Interesting - that’s the first I’ve heard of the castor mod. That would definitely make these things less of a PITA.
Great for tire rotations and other service items too. The caster mod made it easier for me to move the quickjack around the garage. Also I recommend the extension kit if you have a longer wheelbase - SUVs.
The TLX model extended to 66 inches VS the TL model is 60 inches. I bought the 5000TLX model because 6" longer longe 5000TL model. I hope the TLX model should fit under my 07 Honda civic. The wheel base from rocker panel behind the ft tire to tear tire at front is roughly 70-75 inches so it should work on my civic right?
[QUOTE=MikeyMcFly;1604524762]My friends and I keep talking about how we need one of those. I'll need the 7000 with the truck adapters for my daily, but it will be nice to finally be able to get the car up into the air safely. I've yet to find a shop who can change the oil in the thing without overfilling it, so it will be nice to actually get it
quickjack was giving $200 off till 12/31 just made the deadline. Could of got the older model 5000SLX for $1100 but I wanted the extra 3" inches height makes a huge difference when you are under the car to pull off exhausts and differentials.
I have a BL-7000SLX and made a post about it on another car thread. I feel its very applicable to the C5 as the method, blocks used, and accessibility is nearly identical
In my experience jacking my 04 Z06 is nearly identical except for two things.
1. The Z06 is so low that I have to pull up on a wheel well to be able to slide / rotate the jack w/blocks under it. I usually slide the rear under first and push the whole unit until its almost touching the painted rocker area. Go to the front and lift the car w/my left hand (1/4 - 3/8 inches) and rotate the until the blocks slide under the car.
2. The Jag is like most unibodies where you jack on the punch welds. The C5 of coarse uses specific jacking points. I already have those screw in pucks mounted to the car
In the last year (not in the pics) I've bought another set of shorter blocks w/reliefs for pinch welds. This has allowed me to double up the amount of blocks and the pinch welds now have a good 10" of rubber (at each corner) to sit on. (non C5 unibody cars). I've also put the separate hoses in a different place in the garage where they hang with very little curve to them. Keeping them wound tight (as shown in my picture) causes them to want to curl when you try to use them. They are stiff and its so much easier to have them lay flat on the floor.
I purchased the 5000TLX for my C5, but the trays for the rubber blocks are slightly too far from lifting points under the frame (where you would normally put the pucks).
I really don't want to lift where the fiberglass is. What did you do about this problem?