Huh? This doesn't make any sense. You put $3k+ in power adding mods on the car, and you say you didn't want to drive it hard? Why would you modify a car when you're not using all the stock power to begin with? And how could you order and pay for all these mods without ever driving the car hard yet? I mean at the very least you would want to see what the car would do in stock form.

And finally, you had the car dyno'd. You do realize they go to WOT and redline at least twice on the dyno right? Yet you didn't want to tun it too hard with less than 600 miles on it?

Sorry, but none of this makes any sense at all. Pulling the flag until I hear a better explanation.

 

Just a couple of questions that I didn't see answers to -

1) Was your car dynoed before any of the mods were done (on the same dyno)?

2) Were these numbers from a Dynojet or a Mustang dyno?

3) Were these numbers SAE corrected?

I've known plenty of people that were unhappy with their dyno numbers but this is the first time I've seen someone want to sell their car because of low dyno numbers. The Cobra would be MUCH less expensive to mod and probably more practical for you too. The biggest reason I went with a Vette instead of a Cobra was the ergonomics. The Cobra just didn't seem anywhere near as comfortable as the Vette.

 

IMO...

He bought the car and started modding it from the start. People do that... at least I know a few that are lucky to do that. If you got the cash, why not?

He still has less than 1000 miles on the car with the mods... I can understand waiting to pass normal break-in before pressing on it.

Yes, the car is probably had a few pulls on the engine and i've heard that there really is no negative effects on dyno pulls on a fresh engine, but i don't think taking it easy on the road for a while is not a bad idea... One of the main reasons for the break-in is for the drivetrain and for the gears wear in properly.

His tuner Pheonix does have a rep knowing vettes. It's understandable to be concerned after dropping a bit of change on the car with mods and your driving around, breakin the car in with those dyno numbers in your head and you read the forums and hear what numbers people are making without the mods he has. heck, i still think his numbers are on the low side too compared to what people post here but that why the forums suck sometimes cause you fall into the trap of believing the hype online instead of the SOTP and keeps one from enjoying their car.

I think people are just kinda taken aback on his knee-jerk reaction to sell it so quick. But I bet a ton of people on this board would do the same thing if they felt there was an issue with their new car. Hey, if he has the means to do it, more power to ya and he's been pretty respectful in his replys. Sounds like the cars growing on him so we'll see.

Yes, there are some blanks that could be filed in and maybe we could play benchracing some more but oh well.

Don

 

Deanplug,

Sell it, keep it - that is up to you, who are we to question what you do, even if it is not what most of US would do.

So here is my .02.

Your power is low by 10-20 RWHP from what I would expect with your mods. If the intake you are using is the twin cone input I would go back to stock. If the tuner was not monitoring the A/F, knock retard and other vital components of the tune I would get a different tuner.

Buying mods with 600 miles on the car is not the issue here, contrary to some of the posts. However it does speak to the need to have a baseline dyno (stock) to compare relative performance as you mod the car. I suspect the intake and/or the tuning, in any event I would correct the problem as opposed to dumping the car at auction, but it is your $$$ not mine.

Peace.

Les

 

Page 3....

 

A baseline would have been the answer.

 

And drive it !! You'll like it.

 

I did make the mistake of not checking the #'s before adding the LG longtube headers. It just wasn't conv. to do so.

It was a Hazy, Hot and Humid day when it was dyno'd which may account for the low #s.

The A/F ratio was 13.3 if my memory serves me right. It was not a Mustang dyno.

I am sure the gears are stock.

 

Of course I realized what they do on dyno tune. It's partly why I waited to open it up. Up to that point, I never took it to redline. I have to take care of these vehicle's that I drive as they are always available for sale.

Your flag has no bearing on my quote of your post, just don't want you laboring under a misapprehension.

 

Mustang dyno , there's your answer. You can add 20 rwhp to your numbers just by using a Dynojet dyno. If you're not going to race the car , a Cobra might be the way to go. You can make way more rwhp for a lot less money , and on the street a Cobra would be just as much fun (if not more). It sounds like you don't keep your "toys" too long but hopefully you'll find one that you really like. By the way , don't put too much stock in dyno numbers. The only thing you can use a chassis dyno for is measuring before and after numbers (when making mods). You CAN'T use a chassis dyno to compare one car to another. Good luck!

 

Hi Butcher, it was (not) a mustang dyno. Are you saying mustang dyno's typically are 20 rwhp more?

 

I only dynoed 362 rwhp and 353 rwtq at the last place but still manage to run a 11.98 on street tires.

 

Sorry , I missed the word "not". I read it too quickly. Mustang dynoes usually have lower numbers (15-20) than Dynojets. Most performance shops use Dynojets , the Mustangs are pretty rare.

You're AFR seems a little high. Did they try running it a little richer? Usually mid to high 12's gets the best numbers when using catalytic converters. Without cats it's a very different story. Do you know how much they changed your timing?

I think the weather did have an effect on your numbers. If the PCM sees air intake temps over 85 degrees , it uses slightly more conservative fuel/timing tables. This usally means 10-15 rwhp lower than good air. By the way , my car made 340 rwhp/ 334 rwtq when it was stock and it ran 12.09 @ 115.7 mph. I could have made it into the 11's but the track was pretty crowded and I was hobbled due to a broken left foot and sprained left knee & ankle.

 

No problem, Phoenix specializes in Vette's so I am almost positive it was a Dynojet. I have the paper at work with the results. I do remember the first pull was 358rwhp and the other one, I guess after the tune was 366. I am not positive of the A/F ration buth I THINK it was in the low 13's. Maybe I will run over and get it. I didn't go to the shop, I had one of our employees take it there. I still haven't called them to discuss the results. It was def. hot that day.
As I mentioned earlier, I did get on it yesterday for the first time, I mean really got on it. It flies. I might do heads next. Who knows. Thanks for your input Butcher. Dean

 

Finally, an intelligent response. The Corvette is a "road car" not a drag car like the Mustang. When mods like SC require DR's then you lost the road car aspect. The car needs to remain balanced for power and handling. This is why losing weight has a greater advantage than just adding power.

 

I guess "intelligent" people only road race their Z06's. The Cobra comes standard with a manual 6 speed trans , independent rear suspension and Brembo brakes. What makes the Cobra a better drag car than a Z06? Is it the extra weight , the better gearing or just the two extra seats? Part of what makes the Z06 a very good car is the fact it can do MANY things well. Based on what I've seen and heard over the last couple of years I would say the Z06 is more comfortable drag racing than it is road racing. If you take a Z06 to the drag strip you can get a couple of years out of the stock tires , the brake pads and rotors don't wear any faster , you don't have to change the alignment to get the most out of the car at the track and it NEVER over-heats.

 

Don't forget it also comes standard with 3,700 lbs.

Who said it was? Stock vs. stock, the Cobra gets spanked by a Z06 on the drag strip. And due to its ponderous weight, it takes a Cobra well over 400 rwhp to just match a stock Z06 on the strip.

The only advantage the Cobra has as a drag car over the Z06 is its cheaper to buy and cheaper to mod than the Z06 for the same power gains. But a lot of that benefit is hampered by its massive weight problem. And the fact that it has a IRS precludes it from being a really great drag car anyway. Serious drag cars run solid axles, IMO.

The Z06 was never built with drag racing in mind. It was built with road racing in mind, and it does so very well. Drive a Z06 hard on a road course, and you will KNOW - this car is right at home on the high speed road circuit. Yes, it is multi-talented, but it does high speed road courses the best, and feels the most at home on the road course.

The fact that it happens to do well on the drag strip is purely circumstantial and a direct result of its big power and light weight. But it was never built for that purpose.

A Ferrari Enzo happens to get down the drag strip incredibly quick, and post some very impressive times that would make a Cobra look like it was running in reverse. Does that mean its a drag car, or is a better drag car?

Same could be said for ANY car running the drag strip versus road racing. Drag racing in general is easier on the car than road racing with the exception of clutch wear. Road racing is much harder on the brakes, tires, suspension, engine, transmission, and chassis. The difference between the two sports is not unique to the Z06.

In fact, I'll bet a Cobra would lunch its tires and brakes on a high speed road course faster than a Z06 would, because of its excess weight.

 

That's your opinion. Personally , I don't think it feels too "at home" when the DIC lights up and says that the oil temps are too high. I've taken many cars to the drag strip and very few feel as comfortable there as the Z06.

 

A couple of years out of the stock tires ? How many races are you running a year ?

 

OK, got my dyno sheet in front of me and the A/F ratio before the tune was in the low 12's. After the tune in the high 12's. Not sure why I thought it was 13's.

I will say this, the Cobra with it's IRS get's a lot of wheel hop and you have to take off the TC to get the perf out of it. It is also harder to drive than the Z is. The clutch is very heavy on the Cobra and very easy on the Z.