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If you don't already have the Z51 suspension option, then I would also upgrade to it. However, I fear that if you go further than that by installing humongous sway bars and stiffer springs, your handling could very well punish you on less than perfect roads.
When I lowered mine, immediately felt better. Like it hugged turns better, which stock height wasn't bad either. I've since added ZO6 swaybars and I like the ride, not stiff, just like on rails.
When I lowered mine, immediately felt better. Like it hugged turns better, which stock height wasn't bad either. I've since added ZO6 swaybars and I like the ride, not stiff, just like on rails.
I do not yet have the Z06 swaybars. I will soon.
Even an inch and a half and I noticed the improved handling
Many here believe that lowering can improve handling by dropping the center of gravity. Slamming your car can also harshen the the ride quality unless the car is matched with compatible shocks with shorter pistons. If the stock shocks, especially the magnetic shocks (F55) are held in state of continuous compression, they will fail to dampen the abrupt changes in pavement due to lack of travel capacity.
I haven't heard anyone complain about ride quality when they lowered to limits of the stock adjustment bolts, without cutting the bushings. The ride problems seem to occur with cutting the bushings and/or longer rear bolts.
Just find out as much as you can before you cut anything. Best,
Many here believe that lowering can improve handling by dropping the center of gravity. Slamming your car can also harshen the the ride quality unless the car is matched with compatible shocks with shorter pistons. If the stock shocks, especially the magnetic shocks (F55) are held in state of continuous compression, they will fail to dampen the abrupt changes in pavement due to lack of travel capacity.
I haven't heard anyone complain about ride quality when they lowered to limits of the stock adjustment bolts, without cutting the bushings. The ride problems seem to occur with cutting the bushings and/or longer rear bolts.
Just find out as much as you can before you cut anything. Best,
mtv
I've heard that lowering alone will increase your negative camber. This is a likely ause of "it immediately felt better", if it is true. Just a thought.
I have a question.Are you supposed to have the camber adjusted after lowering the car?Previously I went through that process (based on advice of my mechanic),on another car.Haven't lowered my Z yet but I am sure it will improve handling when I do.
I have a question.Are you supposed to have the camber adjusted after lowering the car?Previously I went through that process (based on advice of my mechanic),on another car.Haven't lowered my Z yet but I am sure it will improve handling when I do.
I would suggest a 4 wheel alignment after lowering is a good idea because the car's set up has been changed.
My Z51 suspension is lowered right at 1" on stock bolts, combined with Hotchkis sway bars and Bilstein shocks. I do feel larger bumps more, but (to me) most of any harshness in the ride comes from the tires - not the lowering or other changes. To me it is the sidewall stiffness of EMTs that creates the feeling of "harshness" not so much the other suspension parts. Again, obviously speed bumps and potholes are different. Slamming the car or getting stiffer springs would also contribute.
Some of the best comments on this subject can be found in the Autocross and Roadracing section of this Forum. Those guys know their stuff.
Lowering will increase your negative camber, add toe-in to the front, and add toe-out to your rear.
Everyone says don't do it with F55 susp but as long as you stay within the vehicle specs (which allow different ride heights) you should be fine. Just don't go to the bump stops because full travel may hurt the shocks. The shocks work by changing the viscosity of the fluid based on wheel travel as compared to baseline, and the computer determines the baseline upon engine start. It's my understanding that compression, to the computer, only happens upon change in travel after startup with no such thing as "continuous compression".
I've spoken to a couple of master corvette technicians that have lowered their F55s and they have said that as long as you leave 2 threads showing in the rear you'll be OK. They have had no issues with their lowering so far. FWIW.
Be sure to have the alignment done about two weeks after you lower it to be sure the front bushings have settled into place. If you want to have it corner weighted, do that before the alignment too.
I think, even an inexperienced driver would notice the difference, given the car had Z51,Z06 or Hotchkis sways. If you have clover leafs in your state, this is a place to notice the ability to take them at an accelerated speed.. I am not condoning speed, but rather than carefully navagating the turn... you can spiritly take that sucker at almost any speed you want...