Hurst Shifter Question
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 19
From: Carson City, NV
Originally Posted by vettecop1125
Try cutting a tennis ball in half, take a knife and make an X cut at the top, and then slide it down the shaft. With the tennis ball mod and my MOMO shift, I have no noise or rattle problems.
John
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,984
Likes: 0
From: Central Coast CA
Originally Posted by Classic-Chevy-Guy
Has anyone contacted Hurst about this issue?
I contacted Hurst last year about it. They stated the Hurst shifter is a performance item and does not have the dampening material as the OEM shifter does. They have no intentions to dampen this shifter for noise because performance part items are not concerned about noise, only performance.
When you think about it, this makes sense. We tend to mod our C5's with performance parts and then expect it to be OEM quiet, it just doesn't work that way.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,088
Likes: 1
From: NC
Originally Posted by Shylor
I contacted Hurst last year about it. They stated the Hurst shifter is a performance item and does not have the dampening material as the OEM shifter does. They have no intentions to dampen this shifter for noise because performance part items are not concerned about noise, only performance.
When you think about it, this makes sense. We tend to mod our C5's with performance parts and then expect it to be OEM quiet, it just doesn't work that way.
When you think about it, this makes sense. We tend to mod our C5's with performance parts and then expect it to be OEM quiet, it just doesn't work that way.
OK...In other words, "Go F&^%$ yourself."
"We have enough customers who buy this and won't return it because
of noise."
This just means they will put no effort or engineering into coming up
with a simple solution.
Even GM can dampen noise and vibration with a POS shifter.
There are other aftermarket shifters which deal nicely with this problem.
If I ever get to upgrade, it will be another vendor.
...George
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,984
Likes: 0
From: Central Coast CA
You guys are missing the point about the product and most performance products in general. They are not luxury items, they are PERFORMANCE items for racing. Their main function is only for performance, Hurst did not mislead us. We took a racing product and are using it for street use. The hurst shifter, as with all performance short throw shifters, is that they are not concerned with noise dampening. If that is your primary concern then stick with the OEM shifter.
I knew about the noise and rattle going into a performance shifter and chose solid shifts over noise. I looked over the threads and learned many found ways to dampen it. The best and easiest thing I did to remove the rattle was using an MGW ****.
I knew about the noise and rattle going into a performance shifter and chose solid shifts over noise. I looked over the threads and learned many found ways to dampen it. The best and easiest thing I did to remove the rattle was using an MGW ****.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,973
Likes: 1
From: Milton, West Virginia
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Guys....I installed a 3" long x 3/4" piece of new heater hose over the shifter shaft. It has worked well for me and several others I have done it to, hopefully it will work for you. Also the hose has been there for two years without moving (pushed onto shaft dry)
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,426
Likes: 285
From: West Barnstable MA
Another thread on this forum indicates that you could replace the C5 shifter with a C6 shifter.
Would this provide the shorter throws and the vibration dampening?
Inquiring minds want to know. If so, anyone know the part number and/or cost?
Would this provide the shorter throws and the vibration dampening?
Inquiring minds want to know. If so, anyone know the part number and/or cost?
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Cherish your Hopes...
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 13,074
Likes: 236
From: West Palm Beach FL
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by Shylor
You guys are missing the point about the product and most performance products in general. They are not luxury items, they are PERFORMANCE items for racing. Their main function is only for performance, Hurst did not mislead us. We took a racing product and are using it for street use. The hurst shifter, as with all performance short throw shifters, is that they are not concerned with noise dampening. If that is your primary concern then stick with the OEM shifter.
I knew about the noise and rattle going into a performance shifter and chose solid shifts over noise. I looked over the threads and learned many found ways to dampen it. The best and easiest thing I did to remove the rattle was using an MGW ****.
I knew about the noise and rattle going into a performance shifter and chose solid shifts over noise. I looked over the threads and learned many found ways to dampen it. The best and easiest thing I did to remove the rattle was using an MGW ****.
...I agree...
I have reduce the noise as much as possible...
...now I accept the performance of the HURST with its characteristics...
...and I enjoy the performance over its characteristics...
If I didnt like the characteristics more than I wanted the performance...
...I would have stayed with oem shifter...
now...whats all this to do with cruising when you have the exhaust pipes tuned to loud...and the radio blaring in the background
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
From: Introducing teh Offical Car of your dreams
On this Fernco Rubber Plug mod....it goes on upside-down, with the "cup" portion facing up, right ?
I bought the plug today, going back for the 4 inch piece of 3/4" heater hose tomorrow and I am going to fill the "cup" portion with some sound deadening material. I will also use the teflon take on the **** threads. Have the MGW **** already. I will report back with some pictures and impressions.
I bought the plug today, going back for the 4 inch piece of 3/4" heater hose tomorrow and I am going to fill the "cup" portion with some sound deadening material. I will also use the teflon take on the **** threads. Have the MGW **** already. I will report back with some pictures and impressions.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
From: Introducing teh Offical Car of your dreams
HELP...need Part # for stock shift shaft boot
Not the leather outer boot...the one that bolts down around the shifter under the leather boot. I would like the part # for the one that does not have the hard plastic ring imbedded like my 2004 did. Reason being is when I installed the Hurst originally, I cut out the ring as required to invert the boot around the larger Hurst base. Well, now I just took it apart and the boot has ripped in three places 
making it useless for the Fernco Plug mod 
I think that the cutting left it more suseptible to tearing. Anyway...anyone know the GM part # for the part that does not have the imbedded hard ring ? and what years did not have the imbedded ring ???
So the car is apart waiting for the new boot to be ordered, and of course this was right after a 6 hour detail session.
making it useless for the Fernco Plug mod I think that the cutting left it more suseptible to tearing. Anyway...anyone know the GM part # for the part that does not have the imbedded hard ring ? and what years did not have the imbedded ring ???
So the car is apart waiting for the new boot to be ordered, and of course this was right after a 6 hour detail session.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 906
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
The plug goes in as you describe - with the cup portion facing up. Take a look at the pic I posted on the first page of this thread. The isolator base I put mine in still has the hard ring embedded in it so you cna use that one. The part no. is 12555226.
Make sure the hole you cut in the plug is smaller than the shaft diameter so the shaft is held in place by the plug. The tension is what helps to keep it from rattling.
Make sure the hole you cut in the plug is smaller than the shaft diameter so the shaft is held in place by the plug. The tension is what helps to keep it from rattling.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 551
Likes: 0
From: Mars
Originally Posted by CUlookin
I don't think it's the shifter but the design... It's a great piece, i just need to work on it. Thanks tho George.
And to get rid of that rattle in the tranny... DYNAMAT!! I hated that sound of the car "dying" when you turn it off (that rattle inside the shifter area when the car is turned off) so I dynamatted it all and every sound inside the tunnel is gone... now onto the shifter...
And to get rid of that rattle in the tranny... DYNAMAT!! I hated that sound of the car "dying" when you turn it off (that rattle inside the shifter area when the car is turned off) so I dynamatted it all and every sound inside the tunnel is gone... now onto the shifter...
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 906
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Press the clutch in when you turn the ignition off and it'll shut off with no rattle. It disengages the pressure plate, loading the slave and the rattle is not transmitted down the torque tube to the tranny.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
From: Introducing teh Offical Car of your dreams
Originally Posted by Patches
pic I posted on the first page of this thread. The isolator base I put mine in still has the hard ring embedded in it so you cna use that one.
Patches...got my new (stock) base....how in the world did you invert it with the hard plastic ring inside....I just can't seem to do it...this puppy is tough...although the rubber is very soft....?????
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 906
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Work on it for a while - it'll filp. You need to keep at it until it's reversed. The hard ring never really recovers from the trauma - it stays kinda' warped until you insert the plug (hmm, that sounds kinda' strange . . .). Don't give up.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
From: Introducing teh Offical Car of your dreams
Originally Posted by Patches
Work on it for a while - it'll filp. You need to keep at it until it's reversed. The hard ring never really recovers from the trauma - it stays kinda' warped until you insert the plug (hmm, that sounds kinda' strange . . .). Don't give up.
I used a 2" Fernco cap, with a 9/16" hole drilled in the center and slid it down the Hurst shaft. Fits tights and I like the look.
I then slid a piece of 3/4" rubber heater hose down the shaft to isolate noise/vibration further. As an added bonus the heater hose holds the Fernco plug down in place very well.
I cut the hose to 2 7/8" length. This allows the heater hose to "sandwich" and push the Vette Essentials boot up into the bottom of the MGW Gripper ****.
I added the teflon tape to the threads as well before installing the ****.
The Hurst is now very, very quiet. Thanks Patches and every one else for the ideas.
Here are a few pics of the mod: HURST QUIET MOD
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,654
Likes: 5
From: Silver Spring MD
I solved it!!! I finally got out to drive today, really weird 70 degree weather, had the top down, and no noise!!! I realized I rarely drive with the top up and with it down, you can't hear the rattle!!! Thanks guys
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,472
Likes: 38
From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '11
Originally Posted by Patches
Also, I got one of these pipe plugs in the plumbing section at Lowes and it quelled all noises once and for all.
One negative side effect is that it's now harder to shift.
Anyone else feel this? I have the plug installed as shown in Patches' photo. I put it as far down on the shaft as possible so there would be less movement of the stick for the rubber plug to have to work against. I may reduce my spring pressure on the Hurst now and see how it counter acts it.