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garage floor tiles - help needed!

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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 12:25 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by boatboatboat
I think I am NOT going the VCT tile route. looks great, very low cost......... but I have spoke with Armstrong and two flooring stores, and both have said VCT tile will not work for me, in my situation.

Damn...... I don't want to spend 3000k for race deck..........
What is it about "your situation" that is not compatable with the VCT?
Old Jan 26, 2005 | 03:25 PM
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The garage floor has been sealed, which armstrong says will make the glue not sitck to the floor as well. I live in ohio, and even though I have a heater in the garage, unless I am out there, I set the thermo at 38-40, as a result of this Armstrong says the tile will become brittle, also this garage is not only home to the Vette, but also home to two DD's , that in the winter get ALOT of salt/grit/slush drug in, Armstrong, said that will and can seep under the tile and cause it to lift up.
Old Jan 26, 2005 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by boatboatboat
The garage floor has been sealed, which armstrong says will make the glue not sitck to the floor as well. I live in ohio, and even though I have a heater in the garage, unless I am out there, I set the thermo at 38-40, as a result of this Armstrong says the tile will become brittle, also this garage is not only home to the Vette, but also home to two DD's , that in the winter get ALOT of salt/grit/slush drug in, Armstrong, said that will and can seep under the tile and cause it to lift up.
Thanks.

PS: Thats why I moved from Canton to San Diego.
Old Jan 26, 2005 | 04:35 PM
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I hate you..............
Old Jan 26, 2005 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by boatboatboat
The garage floor has been sealed, which armstrong says will make the glue not sitck to the floor as well. I live in ohio, and even though I have a heater in the garage, unless I am out there, I set the thermo at 38-40, as a result of this Armstrong says the tile will become brittle, also this garage is not only home to the Vette, but also home to two DD's , that in the winter get ALOT of salt/grit/slush drug in, Armstrong, said that will and can seep under the tile and cause it to lift up.

Etch the floor with acid and you will be good to go on the sticking part...As for the DD situation, just wax the floor real well in the fall, and strip it in the spring...simple and it only takes a couple of hours...

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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 05:03 PM
  #66  
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Will do your tile ever crack in the winter?
Old Jan 26, 2005 | 07:55 PM
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I just spent the last 45 minutes reading this thread. Lots of ideas and I have been considering this for the past couple of years. Thanks for the info
Old Jan 26, 2005 | 08:37 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by boatboatboat
Will do your tile ever crack in the winter?

I had one crack in the first house that I did it in, but it was more of a floor leveling thing...had a small ridge that I filed down and replaced the tilenerver fave me anymore trouble.

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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by boatboatboat
The garage floor has been sealed, which armstrong says will make the glue not sitck to the floor as well. I live in ohio, and even though I have a heater in the garage, unless I am out there, I set the thermo at 38-40, as a result of this Armstrong says the tile will become brittle, also this garage is not only home to the Vette, but also home to two DD's , that in the winter get ALOT of salt/grit/slush drug in, Armstrong, said that will and can seep under the tile and cause it to lift up.
Using the standard adhesives with the VCT will allow water to get under it, but there are some epoxy adhesives that will withstand the water, even the freezing. The sealer can be removed with chemicals or sanding.

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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 10:17 PM
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This thread has been great. I wasn’t aware of the epoxy adhesive until now.

I have been researching options for a number of months now and I learned about the VCT tiles from previous posts on this forum. I’m pretty well set now on using the VCT tiles. However, I’m here in upstate NY and my house is around 15 years old, so the garage floor has some pits in it from the years of salt. (From the other cars.) It’s not too bad, but I’m concerned about the tiles deforming where there are some of the larger pits in the floor. Does anyone know if I should try resurfacing the floor with something first or can I just put the tiles on the concrete the way that it is? Will the adhesive fill in the pits? If not, what can I use to fill in the pits and then lay the tile on top of that and have everything stay properly adhered to the floor? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Old Jan 26, 2005 | 10:39 PM
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I`m kind of in the same boat as far as cracks and pits...I believe but, have not confirmed, you can fill small cracks and voids with an epoxy first. I dont think the tile and the thin adhesive will hide the major deformities
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 08:24 AM
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Thanks for great garage flooring ideas. The VCT tiles look like the way I might go. I bought my 10 year old house with the garage floor already coated in grey paint. It is of such poor quality, I assume it is just a cheap latex covering. What is the best way to prep it for VCT tiles? Etching? Thanks for great info on this forum!
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 02:20 PM
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I used MotorMats. Took approx 6 hrs to install and cost approx $1000.00 for a 21 X 21 ft garage.
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 09:11 PM
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Anyone know what auto dealerships use on their floors? I believe it is epoxy based, but I don't know the product name. Given the amount of traffic in the service area, I would assume that this product can withstand the most hostile of conditions.

Thanks
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 10:31 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by gdphillipsvette
Thanks for great garage flooring ideas. The VCT tiles look like the way I might go. I bought my 10 year old house with the garage floor already coated in grey paint. It is of such poor quality, I assume it is just a cheap latex covering. What is the best way to prep it for VCT tiles? Etching? Thanks for great info on this forum!
Since the paint is flaking, you will need to sand it off. Consider that if the paint is flaking, it can't be adhering very well, and if you put tile over it, you are depending on the paint to keep the tile down.
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 10:37 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by 12stepvette
I`m kind of in the same boat as far as cracks and pits...I believe but, have not confirmed, you can fill small cracks and voids with an epoxy first. I dont think the tile and the thin adhesive will hide the major deformities
There are many latex re-inforced patching cements that can be used to fill chipped, cracked or flaking concrete before using VCT over it. It doesn't have to be epoxy, but that would work also. Since VCT is pliable, the floor has to be as smooth as you want VCT to be.
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 10:41 PM
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Snidley... I'm installing a VCT floor this next week.... how long before I can park cars on it???? I live in So Cal so cold in not a problem.

Thanks!

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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 11:17 PM
  #78  
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Default scored & stained concrete

A couple of houses in my neighborhood have scored & stained concrete floors. One had the garage done the same as the house. Has anyone else seen this done?
Old Jan 28, 2005 | 12:18 AM
  #79  
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Yea, I love those stained concrete floors, my Best bud has his Kitchen floor done, Very nice!! I don`t think it would stand up very well to jackstands and tools being dropped and dragged across it though.
Old Jan 28, 2005 | 03:08 AM
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I liked this thread.. never thought of doing this. But then again i dont have a house yet. The checkered blck/white is the best option in my opinion. just my two cnts.



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