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Steering Column Lock FAQs - please read before you post (sticky please)
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 11,792
Likes: 255
From: Ossining New York
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
I'm guessing you've got an 05 C6????
Gee! I'm having this problem on my C6 only it goes one step further. The blasted car will not start! I have to pull the GMLAN out of it's fuse base (unbolt it) and reseat it (rebolt it) and the car will start and continue to start when necessary for the next 3 or 4 days...then, same thing all over again. What gives?
This past winter I successfully designed a "CLB" for the 05 C6 cars and it not only fixes the problem, but allows the car to start much faster....
Call me if you're having problems....
Chuck CoW
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 11,792
Likes: 255
From: Ossining New York
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
Don't worry! I'll SAVE YOU!!!!
Just so everyone out there knows the deal.....
With a "CLB" device and a re-tune of the ECM from me (mail order tune)
we can successfully and permanently SOLVE ALL COL LOCK ISSUES.
With MY fix, you WILL NEVER WORRY ABOUT HAVING TO GET STUCK EVER AGAIN!
Call me if you need me.
Chuck CoW
5th Gear
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I have a question, On my 99 I have the CLB from the dealer and a couple of days ago I got the remove key message, now the car is sitting in the parking lot, Is there any way to jumper across the CLB to get it running? Or do I have to have it towed?
I have a friend that can get a Tech II reader, can he clear the codes so it will start?
I have a friend that can get a Tech II reader, can he clear the codes so it will start?
Drifting
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,482
Likes: 2
From: Pearland, TX
I have a hypotheoreticesis quesiton.
I have a '98 with a dyno tune and it has not had the CLB warranty work done.
I'm planning on putting on new heads and injectors and would also like to upgrade to a '99+ PCM before getting it retuned.
If I do put in a new PCM and tow it to the dealership for the CLB warranty work, when they program the computer will that put in my VIN number? Will they run into any problems?
I have a '98 with a dyno tune and it has not had the CLB warranty work done.
I'm planning on putting on new heads and injectors and would also like to upgrade to a '99+ PCM before getting it retuned.
If I do put in a new PCM and tow it to the dealership for the CLB warranty work, when they program the computer will that put in my VIN number? Will they run into any problems?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,251
Likes: 16
From: Phoenix Arizona
I have a hypotheoreticesis quesiton.
I have a '98 with a dyno tune and it has not had the CLB warranty work done.
I'm planning on putting on new heads and injectors and would also like to upgrade to a '99+ PCM before getting it retuned.
If I do put in a new PCM and tow it to the dealership for the CLB warranty work, when they program the computer will that put in my VIN number? Will they run into any problems?
I have a '98 with a dyno tune and it has not had the CLB warranty work done.
I'm planning on putting on new heads and injectors and would also like to upgrade to a '99+ PCM before getting it retuned.
If I do put in a new PCM and tow it to the dealership for the CLB warranty work, when they program the computer will that put in my VIN number? Will they run into any problems?
Hey!
where is the cheapest column lock bypass these days?
8th Gear
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I had posted my Service steering column lock problems previously in the thread and thought I had everything solved last night when I got my CLB and installed it. Test drove fine. When I finished installing it, I unhooked the battery overnight to clear any codes just in case. Twice today I got the "pull key and wait 10 seconds" message. I did as told and the car was fine both times. Is this just a dirty key or is it plotting to strand me once again with a column lock problem? Brian
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Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,547
Likes: 210
From: Huntersville, NC
I just went through the problem of having a service column lock message and a locked steering wheel. I would like to pass on a big THANKS! to the great folks that contributed to this thread.
I have a 2000 with manual transmission. After using the wheel shake method, I was able to start the car and drive it home. I proceeded to order a CLB kit and take the car apart in preparation for installing the CLB. Found I had the purple wire splice and the relay installed in the passenger footwell.
I took the relay out of the socket to identify the numbers so i could put the jumper in the right place.
Then, took a week vacation, and came back finding the CLB kit had come in the mail.
Well, to make a short story long, I couldn't get the steering column to unlock. neither the wheel shake nor the cig adapter that came in the CLB kit would unlock the steering column.
Luckily I remembered I had pulled the relay. I put it back, and only the wheel shake would unlock the column. At that point, i pulled the neg battery terminal to prevent the column lock from re-energizing and locking, and proceeded with the CLB repair.
After installing the CLB, removing the passenger footwell relay and installing the required jumper between 30&87, All worked great when put back together.
My point to posting is to let others know there is a sequence to the operations to fix this problem. After going through this once, I can see that this has been noticed by others, but until you go through this yourself, you may make the mistake of not realizing the importance of the steps other posters have written.
Again, THANKS!
I have a 2000 with manual transmission. After using the wheel shake method, I was able to start the car and drive it home. I proceeded to order a CLB kit and take the car apart in preparation for installing the CLB. Found I had the purple wire splice and the relay installed in the passenger footwell.
I took the relay out of the socket to identify the numbers so i could put the jumper in the right place.
Then, took a week vacation, and came back finding the CLB kit had come in the mail.
Well, to make a short story long, I couldn't get the steering column to unlock. neither the wheel shake nor the cig adapter that came in the CLB kit would unlock the steering column.
Luckily I remembered I had pulled the relay. I put it back, and only the wheel shake would unlock the column. At that point, i pulled the neg battery terminal to prevent the column lock from re-energizing and locking, and proceeded with the CLB repair.
After installing the CLB, removing the passenger footwell relay and installing the required jumper between 30&87, All worked great when put back together.
My point to posting is to let others know there is a sequence to the operations to fix this problem. After going through this once, I can see that this has been noticed by others, but until you go through this yourself, you may make the mistake of not realizing the importance of the steps other posters have written.
Again, THANKS!
8th Gear
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I have only seen 3 things give the Pull key error message with a CLB installed. In order of most frequesnt cause:
1) Bad battery, weak battery or loose/dirty battery connections including at the starter.
2) Plugging the CLB into the female connector of the GM K Harness instead of the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash.
3) Spliced purple wire and relay in the passenger footwell to the left of the fuse box and above the BCM.
You said in the above posts that your battery is good, you removed the GM K Harness completely and that your car does not have the spliced purple wire and relay. I suggest you revisit the battery again and do the exact testing including the overnight or longer disconnect and recheck of voltage the next morning. Heat this time of year has been taking its toll on batterys.
Did you experience the fuel shutoff this last few times ypo got the message after you installed the CLB?? If yes then I strongly suspect the battery.
Last thing that you can check is to see if the carpet in the passenger footwell is wet. If yes then it is likely that the rubber udder drain for AC condensate and well around the wipers is plugged. That leads to wet carpet and moisture in the BCM. Hope that is not the situation but if it is you need to clean the udder so that it drains and pull the passenger seat and carpet and get the carpet and more importantly the BCM dried out.
Here is one last thing you might look into:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...st-me-0-a.html
Word of caution, other thean the original poster saying it helped his problem, I have never heard of anyone else saying it provided then relief.
1) Bad battery, weak battery or loose/dirty battery connections including at the starter.
2) Plugging the CLB into the female connector of the GM K Harness instead of the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash.
3) Spliced purple wire and relay in the passenger footwell to the left of the fuse box and above the BCM.
You said in the above posts that your battery is good, you removed the GM K Harness completely and that your car does not have the spliced purple wire and relay. I suggest you revisit the battery again and do the exact testing including the overnight or longer disconnect and recheck of voltage the next morning. Heat this time of year has been taking its toll on batterys.
Did you experience the fuel shutoff this last few times ypo got the message after you installed the CLB?? If yes then I strongly suspect the battery.
Last thing that you can check is to see if the carpet in the passenger footwell is wet. If yes then it is likely that the rubber udder drain for AC condensate and well around the wipers is plugged. That leads to wet carpet and moisture in the BCM. Hope that is not the situation but if it is you need to clean the udder so that it drains and pull the passenger seat and carpet and get the carpet and more importantly the BCM dried out.
Here is one last thing you might look into:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...st-me-0-a.html
Word of caution, other thean the original poster saying it helped his problem, I have never heard of anyone else saying it provided then relief.
8Vette7, thanks for your help. I have looked at and tried everything you suggested. The battery is only a few months old and with a DVM it tests fine. Later tonight I may try that last link you suggested about the ground.
Any others ideas would be great, thanks, Brian
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,964
Likes: 28
From: Pittsburgh PA
im waiting for my clb to be delivered, so in the meant ime if i get the error message, ive just pulled fuse 25 for 10 minutes and it was fine. well today i got the message and the fuel shutoff, i pulled the fuse, and it didnt fix it, so i disconnected the neg terminal for 20 min and it didnt clear. any ideas b4 my clb gets here?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,964
Likes: 28
From: Pittsburgh PA
Two things that I would do to your car:
1) If your car has the GM K Harness (and here is a link to what one looks like):
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ky-please.html
Then scroll down to the first pic.
I'd disconnect both ends of the K Harness and plug the male connector from the actuator (wires appear to go up into the column) into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. That way if the problem is the K Harness relay is failing you have gone back to the factory wiring without the K Harness. I'd still install the CLB once you get it.
2) I would check the battery with a digital voltmeter directly across the battery posts with NO KEY in the ignition. This ime of year the heat is taking it's toll on batterys. The voltage read needs to be AT LEAST 12.5 volts. If yours reads very close to 12.5 (or possibly less than 12.5) try charging the battery with a battery tender style charger that shuts off when the battery reaches full charge. Measure the voltage again once fully charged. A good battery at full charge will read between 12.7 and 12.9 volts or more. Then disconnect the battery for at least overnight. Next morning measure the voltage again. If it is back near 12.5 volts the battery is on the way out as it fails to hold a charge with no load attached. Don't bother with dash gage readings as they cannot tell you the state of health of the battery, only whether the alternator is charging. At the time you see the alternator charging it is too late as the column lock logic runs before the engine is started. It is also possible to start the engine with as little as 12.2 volts but the electronics that run the column lock system needs at least 12.5 volts........
1) If your car has the GM K Harness (and here is a link to what one looks like):
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ky-please.html
Then scroll down to the first pic.
I'd disconnect both ends of the K Harness and plug the male connector from the actuator (wires appear to go up into the column) into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. That way if the problem is the K Harness relay is failing you have gone back to the factory wiring without the K Harness. I'd still install the CLB once you get it.
2) I would check the battery with a digital voltmeter directly across the battery posts with NO KEY in the ignition. This ime of year the heat is taking it's toll on batterys. The voltage read needs to be AT LEAST 12.5 volts. If yours reads very close to 12.5 (or possibly less than 12.5) try charging the battery with a battery tender style charger that shuts off when the battery reaches full charge. Measure the voltage again once fully charged. A good battery at full charge will read between 12.7 and 12.9 volts or more. Then disconnect the battery for at least overnight. Next morning measure the voltage again. If it is back near 12.5 volts the battery is on the way out as it fails to hold a charge with no load attached. Don't bother with dash gage readings as they cannot tell you the state of health of the battery, only whether the alternator is charging. At the time you see the alternator charging it is too late as the column lock logic runs before the engine is started. It is also possible to start the engine with as little as 12.2 volts but the electronics that run the column lock system needs at least 12.5 volts........
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,628
Likes: 397
From: Madison Wi
Happy birthday to me....Turning 37 today, and what a day so far.
Go out in the garage to head to work and get the "pull key" and "service column lock" messages.
Car is a 2002 MN6. I've owned it for a couple years troublefree until today.
IIRC, the vehicle history report says a recall or two was performed
The column lock plate was removed by the dealer at some point along the way
In the past I could hear the actuator motor work, but I do not recall if I heard it this morning.
--------------------------------------------------------
Here is what I'm thinking -
Battery is only one year old. I drive the car every day, I've got no reason to suspect a weak charge.
I'll see if the harnessK is installed. If it is, I'll remove it and test. If the problem is gone at that point I'll install a CLB.
If there is no harness K, I'll install a CLB.
It looks like I'm installing a CLB either way.
Sound right?
Go out in the garage to head to work and get the "pull key" and "service column lock" messages.
Car is a 2002 MN6. I've owned it for a couple years troublefree until today.
IIRC, the vehicle history report says a recall or two was performed
The column lock plate was removed by the dealer at some point along the way
In the past I could hear the actuator motor work, but I do not recall if I heard it this morning.
--------------------------------------------------------
Here is what I'm thinking -
Battery is only one year old. I drive the car every day, I've got no reason to suspect a weak charge.
I'll see if the harnessK is installed. If it is, I'll remove it and test. If the problem is gone at that point I'll install a CLB.
If there is no harness K, I'll install a CLB.
It looks like I'm installing a CLB either way.
Sound right?
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,628
Likes: 397
From: Madison Wi
Good plan except that I would STILL start by checking the battery with a digital voltmeter directly across the battery posts. Batterys have gone bad for reasons other than age many times before. You might have a current drain that is draining the battery. Voltage needs to be AT LEAST 12.5 volts on the digital voltmeter with NO KEY in the ignition. If not charge up the battery and then do what you said above.
Also, if you do NOT find the GM K Harness then check in the passenger footwell for the presence of a spliced purple wire with a relay that has a purple wire running back into the splice. It will be to the left of the fuse box and above the BCM. If you find the spliced purple wire refer to this link:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...please-58.html
Then scroll down to post #1155 and go to the paragraph that starts with:
"If your car did NOT have a GM K Harness,"
By the way HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!! Wish I were 37 again........
Also, if you do NOT find the GM K Harness then check in the passenger footwell for the presence of a spliced purple wire with a relay that has a purple wire running back into the splice. It will be to the left of the fuse box and above the BCM. If you find the spliced purple wire refer to this link:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...please-58.html
Then scroll down to post #1155 and go to the paragraph that starts with:
"If your car did NOT have a GM K Harness,"
By the way HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!! Wish I were 37 again........
thx for the birthday wishes, and help.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 5
From: Rockville, MD
2000 C5 MN6 Column Lock
It is really hot out there and my car was parked in the sun all day. Battery was at least 5 years old. Voltage was very low and of course, the steering column locked up.
Called a tow truck to take it to the delaership. Never had the recall done prior. Dealer installed the bypass I bought in 2000 but never put it in. He also installed the (auto trans) plate with no holes to allow the pin to lock up. While it was there I elected to install a new batttery as mine was only 1/3 normal capacity.
Total cost $537, plus $85 for the tow of which $75 will be reimbursed by insurance. What a hassle!!!
Should have swapped that battery a year ago.
Called a tow truck to take it to the delaership. Never had the recall done prior. Dealer installed the bypass I bought in 2000 but never put it in. He also installed the (auto trans) plate with no holes to allow the pin to lock up. While it was there I elected to install a new batttery as mine was only 1/3 normal capacity.
Total cost $537, plus $85 for the tow of which $75 will be reimbursed by insurance. What a hassle!!!
Should have swapped that battery a year ago.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,628
Likes: 397
From: Madison Wi
It's very unlikely that the car has both. At least I have never seen it. One or the other but not likely both........
If you have the K Harness disconnect both ends. For now you could try just putting the male connector from the actuator (wires will appear to go up into the column) into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. Once you have done that you can try clearing all error messages and any DTC's that got set in the BCM. The car may now be driveable if the K Harness had failed. But still get and install a CLB. K Harness looks like this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...l-locking.html
Then scroll to post #8
When you get the CLB disconnect the actuator male connector and plug the CLB male connector into that same female connector. Female connector of the K Harness has only 2 wires, one white and one purple. DO NOT plug the Actuator or the CLB into that connector if you have a K Harness.
If you have the spliced purple wire (refer to my earlier post to see pics of what that would look like) you MUST bypass the relay in order for a CLB to work properly. Again details in my earlier post about bypassing that relay.
If you have the K Harness disconnect both ends. For now you could try just putting the male connector from the actuator (wires will appear to go up into the column) into the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash. Once you have done that you can try clearing all error messages and any DTC's that got set in the BCM. The car may now be driveable if the K Harness had failed. But still get and install a CLB. K Harness looks like this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...l-locking.html
Then scroll to post #8
When you get the CLB disconnect the actuator male connector and plug the CLB male connector into that same female connector. Female connector of the K Harness has only 2 wires, one white and one purple. DO NOT plug the Actuator or the CLB into that connector if you have a K Harness.
If you have the spliced purple wire (refer to my earlier post to see pics of what that would look like) you MUST bypass the relay in order for a CLB to work properly. Again details in my earlier post about bypassing that relay.
The battery reads 12.56 volts. I put a battery tender on it anyways, just incase.
There is a harness K zip tied to the bottom or the column. It was not, however connected to the car. The two wire from it were simply plugged into eachother accomplishing absolutely nothing.
The factory wiring for the CL was intact and connected as OEM.
Weird, right?
So I figured I'd try connecting up the harness K and see what happenned. Nothing.
Here's the thing... I used to hear the CL motor run briefly whenever I inserted or remove the key from the ignition. When these problem started I stopped hearing the CL motor operate. I've always been able to turn the steering wheel regardless of key / no key in the ignition. This tels me the lock plate has been removed.
SO what I had was a completely intact CL system, minus the lock plate.
Is there a way for me to "hotwire" the CL motor and see if that frees it up enough to work again until the CLB I ordered arrives?
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,628
Likes: 397
From: Madison Wi
Just for giggles....
I disconnected the CL
I connected the black wire to ground and then probed the purple and orange wires with +12v to see if I could get the CL motor to move at all. Nothing.
I suspect that the CL motor has failed. I used to be able to hear it run very time I put the key in the ignition or removed it.
I guess the only thing I can do now is wait for the CLB I ordered to arrive.
I disconnected the CL
I connected the black wire to ground and then probed the purple and orange wires with +12v to see if I could get the CL motor to move at all. Nothing.
I suspect that the CL motor has failed. I used to be able to hear it run very time I put the key in the ignition or removed it.
I guess the only thing I can do now is wait for the CLB I ordered to arrive.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,628
Likes: 397
From: Madison Wi
Based on what you have described in this and the previous post I agree the column lock motor has failed. The motor serves two functions when in the factory wired mode (as yours apparently is).
1) to operate the lock pin based an a lock or unlock signal from the BCM
2) sends a "completed" signal back to the BCM to satisfy the BCM that it's command has been serviced.
If the motor is out as we suspect then the BCM is NOT going to get its required "completed" response. Therefore it thinks the column is in the LOCKED state and hence the error messages and the fuel shutoff you are experiencing.
There are two possible solutions.
1) Wait for and install the CLB and clear all the codes and error messages after installing it. The BCM will then be satisfied each time is sends a command because the CLB, being an electronic relay, simply turns around each BCM command as a completed signal. You will no longer get the error messages or the fuel shutoff.
2) have a tuner with either EFI Live or HP Tuners tuning software set the fuel shutoff in the PCM to a high number like 255. Then when you attempt to drive the car you will still get the error messages in the DIC BUT the car is driveable up the new fuel shutoff speed. Since the BCM never gets the completed signals it still raises the messages in the DIC and signals the PCM to enable the fuel shutoff but the PCM waits until the cars speed reaches the value set for the speed (255 in this case) to shutoff the fuel.
I'd get the CLB installed and then clear all the DTC's and DIC error messages. Some day if you do a custom tune have the shutoff speed set to a high value.
1) to operate the lock pin based an a lock or unlock signal from the BCM
2) sends a "completed" signal back to the BCM to satisfy the BCM that it's command has been serviced.
If the motor is out as we suspect then the BCM is NOT going to get its required "completed" response. Therefore it thinks the column is in the LOCKED state and hence the error messages and the fuel shutoff you are experiencing.
There are two possible solutions.
1) Wait for and install the CLB and clear all the codes and error messages after installing it. The BCM will then be satisfied each time is sends a command because the CLB, being an electronic relay, simply turns around each BCM command as a completed signal. You will no longer get the error messages or the fuel shutoff.
2) have a tuner with either EFI Live or HP Tuners tuning software set the fuel shutoff in the PCM to a high number like 255. Then when you attempt to drive the car you will still get the error messages in the DIC BUT the car is driveable up the new fuel shutoff speed. Since the BCM never gets the completed signals it still raises the messages in the DIC and signals the PCM to enable the fuel shutoff but the PCM waits until the cars speed reaches the value set for the speed (255 in this case) to shutoff the fuel.
I'd get the CLB installed and then clear all the DTC's and DIC error messages. Some day if you do a custom tune have the shutoff speed set to a high value.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,628
Likes: 397
From: Madison Wi
You won't likely get the timing of the signal correct. The BCM doesn't wait very long for the completed signal. I have read the delay from sending the signal to getting the response is 30 milliseconds. A few posts I have seen said they took the plastic cover off the column and wrapped on the lock motor to get it working again. Here is a thread about the lock motor and removing the lock platethat you could read:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ing-wheel.html
If you want to try building your own CLB here is a link on doing that:
http://shelor.net/Z/CorvetteForum/Cscokd/
Since you have a GM K Harness you have the necessary male connector. You can gut the relay portion of the K Harness and put the parts for you DIY CLB into the shell of the relay. I have heard that the parts are generally available from Radio Shack for less than $15.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ing-wheel.html
If you want to try building your own CLB here is a link on doing that:
http://shelor.net/Z/CorvetteForum/Cscokd/
Since you have a GM K Harness you have the necessary male connector. You can gut the relay portion of the K Harness and put the parts for you DIY CLB into the shell of the relay. I have heard that the parts are generally available from Radio Shack for less than $15.