help with bleeding brakes
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Pro
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Wylie TX
help with bleeding brakes
I pulled my front calipers out completely to paint them. Put both back on. Had wife pump and hold but I got no air out of either front side? Read some posts and it seems that there is a method to bleed these da@n brakes. 98 coupe RR LR RF LF? I am fifty one years old and when replacing only fronts or rears on ANY other vehicle I have never bled any that i did not remove/replace. Have the car up on stands in the front and cannot get under rear. Any suggestion or enlightenment welcomed.
Frustrated
Frustrated
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From: King George VA
Did you get fluid out or nothing?
I think the technically correct answer depends a lot on how much fluid leaked out of the lines while the calipers were off. I would guess that the lines to the rear calipers are still full of fluid and that only the lines to the front have air in them.
I've replaced calipers several times on the vette, but always four at once. When I start bleeded there is only air that comes out. Takes several pump, bleed, release cycles to get the fluid to push the air out.
I was also surprised at how little fluid I actually needed for a four caliper replacement. Only about a bottle and a half. I had four...
Is the pedal firm? If so, turn it on to turn on the pump, then turn it off and try bleeding again. If it is still firm at that point, I would very cautiously drive it around the block and test it, then likely bring it in and bleed all four calipers.
I usually use the order you listed. Somewhere in there GM changed the correct order for the C5/Z06 to a different order, but I've always used the "old" way and never had any problems.
Good luck sorting it out.
I think the technically correct answer depends a lot on how much fluid leaked out of the lines while the calipers were off. I would guess that the lines to the rear calipers are still full of fluid and that only the lines to the front have air in them.
I've replaced calipers several times on the vette, but always four at once. When I start bleeded there is only air that comes out. Takes several pump, bleed, release cycles to get the fluid to push the air out.
I was also surprised at how little fluid I actually needed for a four caliper replacement. Only about a bottle and a half. I had four...
Is the pedal firm? If so, turn it on to turn on the pump, then turn it off and try bleeding again. If it is still firm at that point, I would very cautiously drive it around the block and test it, then likely bring it in and bleed all four calipers.
I usually use the order you listed. Somewhere in there GM changed the correct order for the C5/Z06 to a different order, but I've always used the "old" way and never had any problems.
Good luck sorting it out.
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Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
One thing you have to be careful of is that they are pumped slowly and released slowly waiting about 15 seconds between pumps. My wife got a little over zealous and I had a out of position master cylinder piston for a while. You might want to try a gravity bleed. In the end, I bought a Motul pressure bleed so I could do them myself.
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
OK, I just dug out the manual and read up on replacing the front caliper. They do start with the rear even though the front was replaced. However, in your position without access to the rear, I would try only the fronts to see if you can get your pedal back. Procedure is:
Install transparent hose over bleed screw and submerge open end in container with some brake fluid in it.
Have assistant (wife) slowly depress brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, the repeat steps until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
I have an 02, and the procedure goes RR, LF, LR, and RF. (In your case I would do LF then RF) Once complete, re-fill master cylinder and then slowly depress and release brake pedal. If spongy, repeat bleeding.
Hope this helps.
Install transparent hose over bleed screw and submerge open end in container with some brake fluid in it.
Have assistant (wife) slowly depress brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, the repeat steps until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
I have an 02, and the procedure goes RR, LF, LR, and RF. (In your case I would do LF then RF) Once complete, re-fill master cylinder and then slowly depress and release brake pedal. If spongy, repeat bleeding.
Hope this helps.
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From: Wylie TX
Exactly! I did not touch the rears. I had the engine running, pump abot half a stroke and eventually the pedal gets slightly firm but still presses to floor pretty easily. Have her hold it there and don't let off while I open the bleeder valve. Tried each front side four times. Never got any air surges, only fluid? I put in one whole small bottle of fluid after reinstalling the calipers. After attempt bleeding, I added about a third of another bottle to get to full mark. Took it off the stands on slanted driveway (WEW) to throw it in the garage for the night. Pedal is virtually nill. Have to pump to get any pressure built up. I can't believe I would have to cycle pump/bleed more than I did to get any air, but.... Front of car was pointed down the drive grade with front raised on stands. Maybe the air traveled toward the rears, I don't know...
Guess I'll have to take the Dam@ thing to LG's in the AM since it's so low that I can't get under one end when the other is raised.
Guess I'll have to take the Dam@ thing to LG's in the AM since it's so low that I can't get under one end when the other is raised.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Assachusetts
Btw, a trick for lowered cars is to cut up some 2x6es with a 45* angle on one end and drive up on them first. Stack em if it's still not tall enough.
I drive up on 4 of them at once and then I can get a jack under the rear, even with the front lifted.
Dope
I drive up on 4 of them at once and then I can get a jack under the rear, even with the front lifted.
Dope
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Charlotte, NC
Make sure you didn't swap the left and right side calipers which would make them upside down. A guy in our car club did this and he's raced the car for years. The only side affect is that he couldn't bleed all of the air out of the lines and he was left with spongy brakes. The car drove fine like this over several years.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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Just a thought, but hope you didn't let the fluid level go too low and allow air into the master? I understand that can require bleeding the ABS controller - which requires a diagnostic hookup (a.k.a. dealer)
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From: Wylie TX
Originally Posted by FASST LN
Make sure you didn't swap the left and right side calipers which would make them upside down. A guy in our car club did this and he's raced the car for years. The only side affect is that he couldn't bleed all of the air out of the lines and he was left with spongy brakes. The car drove fine like this over several years.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Don't think I did. Kept all hardware separated to ensure that I did not get confused as to which wheel it came from. If i did that then the brake line would attach at the bottom of caliper. Currently both brake lines are top side connected. Is this correct? Anyone? I made two more ramps today and now have the car on stands in the garage. Went ahead and pulled rear calipers/rotors to paint them. also bought the "one man brake bleeder kit" from autoZone. Stay tuned!
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Easley S.C.
I believe even if you only do the fronts you would still need to bleed the rears to make sure that you got all the air out of them. I took all four of my calipers off at one time and replaced the brake lines with the stainless steel lines and had no way to plug off the lines and just about all the brake fluid ran out. I had to start at the rear of the car and bleed brakes all the way around.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Antioch, CA
Yep, sounds like they are backward. The bleeders should be up and the lines on the bottom. If you didn't touch the rears, go look you will see the bleeders topside...
Originally Posted by Jackal
The bleeder valves should be pointing up, and the brake lines should be hooked up on the bottom. I think you have them installed on the wrong side.
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From: King George VA
Originally Posted by StingR
Currently both brake lines are top side connected. Is this correct? Anyone?