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Just getting ready to install the ARP balancer bolt. It calls for "RED" Loctite for installation. How do you remove this sucker later, has anyone done this and if so did you have to use heat?
Just getting ready to install the ARP balancer bolt. It calls for "RED" Loctite for installation. How do you remove this sucker later, has anyone done this and if so did you have to use heat?
I assume since you are using the ARP bolt you have pinned the crank, if so forget the 240 lbs torque and just torque it to 100-150 ftbs.
If theres no relative motion between the balancer and the crank the bolt will never loosen up.
I just spoke with Permatex Tech Support. Heat is definitely required. I was told that unless there are corrosion issues, there is no need to coat the entire threaded length and that the last 1/4" of engagement (nearest 1/4" to the end of the threads in the crankshaft) is all that is required. This will aid later disassembly.
I assume since you are using the ARP bolt you have pinned the crank, if so forget the 240 lbs torque and just torque it to 100-150 ftbs.
If theres no relative motion between the balancer and the crank the bolt will never loosen up.
My ATI instructions say 250, I didn't get any with the ARP bolt. I have heard 190, but can't confirm. Maybe I need to call ARP.
The major advantage to pinning the crank (the sole reason I'm doing mine this way) is so you don't need to go crazy w/ the torque on the bolt. 100-150ft lbs should be sufficient.
My ATI instructions say 250, I didn't get any with the ARP bolt. I have heard 190, but can't confirm. Maybe I need to call ARP.
Your ATI instructions say 250 when using a stock bolt with the torque to yield method w/o pinning the crank.
Your ARP bolt will not stretch and the balancer can't move if you have pinned the crank, (you have pinned the crank haven't you)?
If not stop and do it immediately or your balancer will loosen and spin on the crank.
I got my info from a friend who is a fastener engineer at GM 4 years ago when I installed my ProCharger with the ATI balencer and it has not come loose yet.
Yes, my crank is pinned (oohhh, can I say that here )
Obviously I am getting a lot of conflicting information. I don't want to assemble the motor and never be able to get this bolt out again, which is a real possibility. Lower torque would help, and I frankly can't see the need for 250 ft-lb. I also spoke with Permates at I posted earlier, and he did tell me that improper removal later can break the bolt, which would ruin the crank.
Just spoke to ARP Tech Support, they told me DON'T USE RED LOCTITE.
190 lb-ft of torque with their moly lube is the way it was designed. Since I pinned the crank anyhow, that is how I plan to assemble the motor. At least I will be able to take it apart later
Just spoke to ARP Tech Support, they told me DON'T USE RED LOCTITE.
190 lb-ft of torque with their moly lube is the way it was designed. Since I pinned the crank anyhow, that is how I plan to assemble the motor. At least I will be able to take it apart later
Good info. Thanks for pursuing this one and letting us all know. I'm filling all this info away for the day when I just use my car for DEs and am not constrained by SCCA T1 rules. Pinning my crank will be one of my first "mods"...