If you get this code beware! After changing the sensor twice on my 04
z, I decided to look inside. So i ordered my new cam and springs and dug in. When I took the timing cover off the cam gear about fell off in my hand. All 3 bolts were backed out and rubbing the cover. This problem started at about 5k miles. I talked to gm tech center and they had several cases of this happening. So if you get this code dont waste ant time checking it out. A few more miles and i would have needed a motor. The local tech tried to blame it on my magnuson but the problem is someones not properly tightening bolts.

 

appreciate the heads-up on this.

 

What DTC code does it display? Or is it a written warning that is displayed on the DIC? Thanks for the heads up!!!

I have the HC job coming up soon on my 02 Z06 and I plan on using lots of Lock tight on those bolts!!!

Bill Curlee

 

Good idea on the lock tight. I will get back with you on the code #
but the dtc is signaled by the check engine light. The old style cam plate had fold up tabs to secure the cam bolt but my crane set did not have that. So like you said i used plenty thread-locker.

 

This seems to be a very common problem with the LSx motors. I am surprised that there isn't a Recall on it. I wonder why these LSx motors have this problem? I never heard problem of this on the earlier chevy small blocks.

 

It could be as simple as machine tolerance. Bad batch of bolts? But more than likely are not using A thread adhesive.

 

One thing I did on my install was to clean the new ARP bolts and the cam threads very carefully to ensure bare metal. I then used loctite (red) on these bolts and tightened them to the correct torque. This problem occurs after a cam change more frequenyly then you realize and I think that many folks aren't cleaning the bolts correctly to get the proper contact with the loctite. I used blue loctite on the cam plate though.

 

It happened to me as well. There is no defect. Some moron simply didnt tighten the bolts or use loctite.

EDIT: I posted this a while back, june 2005. I just looked up the thread and it was you. Thats a long time to be driving around with the loose bolts like that. But I can understand because obviously you didnt know until you ripped the front apart.

Cam position sensor code help

"""I had that problem. I ran continuity checks on the wiring and checked the sensor and it all checked good. I went ahead and changed the sensor for the hell of it and that didn't fix it. I then had the ECM computer replaced under warranty and then had to get it reprogrammed for my supercharger, but that didn't fix the problem either. The only other alternative was to check the cam. So I pulled the radiator, steering rack, etc. and when I got to the timing cover off I could see what the problem was. All 3 bolts that attach the cam gear to the cam had come loose and backed all the way out to where the bolt heads were rubbing on the timing cover and even the alignment pin that aligns the cam gear to the cam was gone, which I later found when changing the oil because it was stuck to my magnetic oil drain plug. Anyway, this caused the cam to move aft which prevented the reluctor wheel on the back end of the cam from lining up with the cam sensor. This was when my engine was completely stock internally. So the f**king idiot moron who assembled the engine from the factory didn't tighten all the bolts nor did he use loctiite. Anyway, I got new bolts, gaskets, cam, timing cover, and cam gear from the dealership for free because my car was all under warranty. Anyway, since I had it all tore apart, I installed an aftermarket cam, double roller timing chain and put it all back together and never had another problem out of it.

And to make a long story short, they didn't want to work on my car under warranty because they said the supercharger caused internal damage. I knew that was BS because the supercharger has no effect on the cam whatsoever and this engine only had 1000 miles on it. Once I had the engine apart and showed the worn bolts, cam gear, and timing cover to the manager at the dealership, he agreed with me that it wasn't my nor the superchargers fault and gave me all new parts for free.

The cam position sensor is only used for starting purposes. Once the engine is started, the reluctor wheel on the crankshaft provides position timing for the computer. The reluctor wheel on the cam has 2 notches that are 180 degress opposite of each other. The cam position sensor has a magnetic pickup that reads these notches. If the cam position sensor is unable to "see" these notches, then you will experience longer than normal engine cranking because the computer is trying to determine when to start the firing sequence and get a code and so on.

What you need to do is a continuity check on the wiring from the cam position sensor plug down to the ECM on the frame at the passengers front fender well. If that checks good, then the only thing left is the cam. Let me know what happens."""

 

We have seen this problem a few times. The code that comes up is PO343.

 

Same problem here after installing my A & A kit. I made a post about it all in the forced induction forum recounting what all happend. Glad you caught it like I did.