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Old Oct 8, 2005 | 07:25 PM
  #1  
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Default Engine Help Please Read

Hey Team

My 98 coupe is having some problems.

Car was running perfect and then...Here is what I did.

I Took out the cats (didn't get sims yet) and had 2 straight pipes welded in. 2 codes came up but the car ran perfect still.

The next week I changed out the spark plugs to tr55s with .55 gap. Car still running perfect, gas mileage went up about 3mpg.

Saturday I put in new magnecor 8.5mm wires. Car still runs fine as far as I know...didn't drive it much

Saturday night drove it to a friends house and we changed out the oil pressure sensor. Had the Upper intake manifold off and thought we put everything back right.
I then notice on the highway when I give it full gas at 1000-1900 rpms it bucks, misfires and backfires. After 2000 you don't feel it but I assume the problem is still there. The car also idles a little lower and shakes at idle when it never used to. Feel a big chunk of power is missing. The car runs good until it is warmed up where the problem becomes real obvious.

I had my friend drive around with me with his laptop and the scanning tool and he didn't notice anything wrong.

What can I do? I sprayed some carb cleaner on the uim to look for a leak, I inspected for anything being loose and found the coupler behind the MAF was hanging off (put it on with no change), reset the computer several times.

Please, I think I've shown some effort! If you have any ideas don't be shy.
Thanks in advance
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Old Oct 8, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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Check your wires. I had 2 Magnecore wires come loose at the plugs just after putting them in. They're great wires but a pain to get on.
Also, check the metal end caps on the plugs. You need to tighten them just a bit with pliers before installing them. They will work loose if you don't tighten them.
Another thing I was guilty of!
Good luck.
Al.
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Old Oct 8, 2005 | 07:42 PM
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Isn't there some kind of misfire code?

I was also thinking that it could be ignition related. Maybe the wires were bad or that a coil went out but the car runs better in the higher rpms...I can't feel misfires at least but it's def. down on power.
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Old Oct 8, 2005 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by IDM
Isn't there some kind of misfire code?

I was also thinking that it could be ignition related. Maybe the wires were bad or that a coil went out but the car runs better in the higher rpms...I can't feel misfires at least but it's def. down on power.

Your friends scan tool would have picked up any kind of misfire...there is a code for misfire but that would be for major misfires like with bent valves.
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 12:09 AM
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Any ideas?
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 01:09 AM
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If this C5 was tuned sometime in the past the tuner might have turned off codes so they would not trip such codes like misfires.
If battery was disconnected then PCM needs a idle relearn and then a good 40 mile drive to relearn
Maybe the small vaccum hose right inder the MAP sensor ( or MAP itself was not connected) that goes to the intake and then to the HVAC reserve tank was not hooked up properly.
Turn HVAC on and switch where the air should be directed, if it just blows out certain ducts then that tells you that small hose is off or leaking which would effect engine vaccum.
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 02:28 AM
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you do drive 10 mph over speed bumps
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by boosted_z06
If this C5 was tuned sometime in the past the tuner might have turned off codes so they would not trip such codes like misfires.
If battery was disconnected then PCM needs a idle relearn and then a good 40 mile drive to relearn
Maybe the small vaccum hose right inder the MAP sensor ( or MAP itself was not connected) that goes to the intake and then to the HVAC reserve tank was not hooked up properly.
Turn HVAC on and switch where the air should be directed, if it just blows out certain ducts then that tells you that small hose is off or leaking which would effect engine vaccum.
The most difficult part of the intake r&i is making sure the map is hooked up. GM doesn't give you much room to work with back there. Try checking the vacuum connection on the map.
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 12:56 PM
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Did both vacuum lines get hooked up behind the intake manifold, the one for the brake booster is pretty obvious but the smaller one can and does get missed.
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 01:02 PM
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Can someone give me a picture? Please tell me that I don't have to remove the upper intake manifold again to access this

I also am having a problem with the A/C blowing air out of the wrong places...it won't switch modes.
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 01:29 PM
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99% sure you have a vacuum leak, and as the others have stated, and by your own admission that your AC controls no longer function..

Looks like you need to pull the intake again, bud. Loose / disconnected lines on the back.
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 01:36 PM
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Yes, but my A/C has always done that since I bought the car. This problem just started about a week ago.
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 02:39 PM
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Wow Magnecor Plug Wires Blow

They don't really snap into place very well and seem loose. They are also too long and touch the side of the headers and 2 of them have had the boot melted already within 1 week of owning them. What a **** poor product and I bought it because I thought it was the best since it was the most expensive at 90 dollars.
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 02:58 PM
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Default You can't really beat the stock wires..

They have the heat shields and and keep the wires safe. I went with MSD's, but I put the stock heat shields on, and all is well.
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Old Oct 9, 2005 | 06:23 PM
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Problem fixed thanks to c5 freak!

The caps were loose on the plugs and also the magnecor wires blow and they don't stay on the plugs
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 09:34 AM
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Hey IDM

Tried to PM you, but your mailbox is full
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