GT you don't want it loose you could ruin your crank.
Problems after cam swap....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 892
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Originally Posted by cbx1047cc
Just FYI, I removed my stock pulley last night and before I did, I accurately measured the distance from the rear of the pulley (closest to engine block) to the flat surface of the timing chain cover and it was exactly 1". I have never had any belt problems before. When I install the new UD pulley, I am going to try to seat it with my impact wrench (good for up to 600 lbs. torque) using the old bolt, and then measure the distance to the block. Then I will remove the old bolt and tighten the new bolt to 37 ft/lbs.
Question: Should I add loctite to the new crank bolt? It seems to already have thread sealant on it now.
Question: Should I add loctite to the new crank bolt? It seems to already have thread sealant on it now.
Last edited by Av8ter; Nov 30, 2005 at 12:08 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,625
Likes: 1
From: Rhode Island
Originally Posted by Av8ter
Not sure if you knew or not, but after seating the balancer with the old bolt, tighten to 240 ft lbs, remove and install new bolt, tighten to 37 ft lbs and then turn it an additional 140 degrees for the preload/stretch, basically a little over a 1/3 of a turn. And yes i would put loctite on it and since you are already there, you should pin the crank. You will never have another problem out of it. Its pretty easy and only takes a couple of minutes.
I'll do a search for the procedure to pin the crank. Thanks.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 892
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
ATI has a nice pinning fixture. Its a steel mount with a hardened steel insert to prevent the drill bit from walking and will make sure your hole is straight. A couple other fixtures ive seen were crap and the hole was wallered out after one use. The pics below show the fixture. All you do is mount the balancer with the old bolt, and then install this tool and drill about .800 deep (thats why the tape is on the drill bit). Then blow out the hole and tap in a 1/4" steel dowel pin coated with loctite. Then install the new balancer bolt like normal.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/av8ter/DSCN0364.jpg[/IMG]]
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/av8ter/crankpin10.jpg[/IMG]]
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/av8ter/DSCN0364.jpg[/IMG]]
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/av8ter/crankpin10.jpg[/IMG]]
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 32,739
Likes: 19
From: Try not to complain so much....
St. Jude Donor '14
For whatever reason, the LS1 guys here don't pin them. Plenty of LS1's and the shops don't pin them and say problems are rare.
Its a double edged sword for me; the builder is fixing it for no cost (he backs his work) but hasn't had to pin one before, and hasn't done one before. He said he would do it....
I will talk to him again on thursday.
Its a double edged sword for me; the builder is fixing it for no cost (he backs his work) but hasn't had to pin one before, and hasn't done one before. He said he would do it....
I will talk to him again on thursday.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 4
From: San Bruno ca
Originally Posted by GTrain
For whatever reason, the LS1 guys here don't pin them. Plenty of LS1's and the shops don't pin them and say problems are rare.
Its a double edged sword for me; the builder is fixing it for no cost (he backs his work) but hasn't had to pin one before, and hasn't done one before. He said he would do it....
I will talk to him again on thursday.
Its a double edged sword for me; the builder is fixing it for no cost (he backs his work) but hasn't had to pin one before, and hasn't done one before. He said he would do it....
I will talk to him again on thursday.
I have a freind that use to work at a chevy dealership and they had a bullitin come out for the crankshaft pullie bolt. It was said that at the assembly plant when they put the motor together for the first time they would put in the pullie bolt and just crank it down to 240 lbs and be done with it. After a while these bolts would start to come lose and would get sent back to be done the right way. Once they refixed the bolt the right way it would be fine. This is what i heard 
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Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 466
Likes: 0
From: Va. Beach VA
Sounds like your problem is/was a used/stretched crank bolt. I'm not familiar with this particular issue, but I have had experience with torque to yield main cap and head bolts. At the risk of overstating the obvious, once these bolts are torqued to specs, they are stretched, and consequently longer than new. If you try to reuse them, the bolt just tightens in the bottom of the hole without actually tightening, in this case, against the pulley/balancer. Worst case scenario is you can actually wring the bolt off in the hole. That's when things really start to suck! Best of luck, bro! Thanks for the thread....
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 32,739
Likes: 19
From: Try not to complain so much....
St. Jude Donor '14
** UPDATE **
Picked the car up today. He got all the junk out of the way, pulled the pulley and checked it yesterday. We ordered a new bolt from GM and he buttoned it up today.
Runs great. Pulley has a slight wobble at idle, nothing more that what I have seen on other LS1's, but I will keep an eye on the setup to insure there is no walking. Everything is lined up fine.
The car should be around 420-430 at the crank and high 300's at the wheels so we will continue to monitor it.
Picked the car up today. He got all the junk out of the way, pulled the pulley and checked it yesterday. We ordered a new bolt from GM and he buttoned it up today.
Runs great. Pulley has a slight wobble at idle, nothing more that what I have seen on other LS1's, but I will keep an eye on the setup to insure there is no walking. Everything is lined up fine.
The car should be around 420-430 at the crank and high 300's at the wheels so we will continue to monitor it.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 3
From: Sacramento CA
I am glad you got it back gtrain and that it is working.
"My" point was that the pinning process has no detrimintal side effects, and it makes SURE nothing moves. If the problems are rare, you dont want to be the 1 out of 10 that has problems because you chose not to pin it. Thats all.
The other thing I was going to suggest (but forgot) was to use an ARP bolt and not the POS GM bolt. Oh well.
"My" point was that the pinning process has no detrimintal side effects, and it makes SURE nothing moves. If the problems are rare, you dont want to be the 1 out of 10 that has problems because you chose not to pin it. Thats all.
The other thing I was going to suggest (but forgot) was to use an ARP bolt and not the POS GM bolt. Oh well.