Problems after cam swap....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,096
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From: Size Does Matter CA
GTrain I believe the rack is in the way.
Go buy a new bolt, use the old one to set it in there and then use the new one to torque it down. I feel your problem on this. IT is a pain in the butt.
Go buy a new bolt, use the old one to set it in there and then use the new one to torque it down. I feel your problem on this. IT is a pain in the butt.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
You will have to remove the rack to do this properly. I would also get a new pulley, not worth messing with if you are going to take it apart again. Follow the manual to the "T".
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 1999
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From: This vette goes to 11 Milford MA
St. Jude Donor '03-'05
The rack is definitely in the way. I am about to drop mine to replace the balancer because my seal cut a groove in it and is spraying oil at high RPM's. Not a fun job.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Try not to complain so much....
St. Jude Donor '14
Thanks for the feedback.....I toyed with it some more, lined the belts up, started it, and both belts jump over one groove toward the engine.....
Now I am bummed. Debating on just taking it to the dealership to see if they can adjust it without dropping the rack....
Now I am bummed. Debating on just taking it to the dealership to see if they can adjust it without dropping the rack....
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Either it is not fully seated, which is bad because it can spin on the crank, or the rubber has shifted. In order to effect a repair, the rack must come out. I personally don't think it is that bad of a job to get the rack out. I used some vacuum caps to seal the lines to keep the PS fluid from dumping and had not problems. I would pick up a new seal while you are at it, as it might be effected by all of these issues and the last thing you need is to fix the balancer and then have the seal start leaking.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Sioux Falls South Dakota
Cruise-In II Veteran
Cruise-In III Veteran
The rack must be dropped, also use a new crank bolt. Your pulley needs to come in closer to the engine. A friend of mine drops the rack and all in about 2 hours.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Try not to complain so much....
St. Jude Donor '14
I checked again, and the belt is now TWO gaps closer to the engine.
So based on the posts here, I reached down to check the crank pulley bolt and sure enough, it was loose enough for me to unscrew it by hand. The pulley is slowly working its way off.....
Now I will have to have it towed.
So based on the posts here, I reached down to check the crank pulley bolt and sure enough, it was loose enough for me to unscrew it by hand. The pulley is slowly working its way off.....
Now I will have to have it towed.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,561
Likes: 448
From: Atlanta metro Ga.
Originally Posted by GTrain
I checked again, and the belt is now TWO gaps closer to the engine.
So based on the posts here, I reached down to check the crank pulley bolt and sure enough, it was loose enough for me to unscrew it by hand. The pulley is slowly working its way off.....
Now I will have to have it towed.
So based on the posts here, I reached down to check the crank pulley bolt and sure enough, it was loose enough for me to unscrew it by hand. The pulley is slowly working its way off.....
Now I will have to have it towed.
Glad you caught it in time, that's for sure.
This is the primary reason I pinned the crank during my cam swap; didn't have to worry about insane TQ values on the bolt, and since the pulley can't spin on the crank, it's not trying to back the bolt out.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 32,739
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From: Try not to complain so much....
St. Jude Donor '14
UPDATE:
I spoke with the engine builder. He remember's installing it by the book, new bolt torque, locktight etc. Since he has a number of LS1's laying around, the only explanation was that the "new" bolt he used wasn't really new and from another car in the shop. Maybe one of his other guys mixed some of the parts up.
In any case, I am taking it in and he is going to do the job again, no cost. He has always backed his work.....
I spoke with the engine builder. He remember's installing it by the book, new bolt torque, locktight etc. Since he has a number of LS1's laying around, the only explanation was that the "new" bolt he used wasn't really new and from another car in the shop. Maybe one of his other guys mixed some of the parts up.
In any case, I am taking it in and he is going to do the job again, no cost. He has always backed his work.....
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,510
Likes: 240
From: Coconut Creek FL
Originally Posted by GTrain
UPDATE:
I spoke with the engine builder. He remember's installing it by the book, new bolt torque, locktight etc. Since he has a number of LS1's laying around, the only explanation was that the "new" bolt he used wasn't really new and from another car in the shop. Maybe one of his other guys mixed some of the parts up.
In any case, I am taking it in and he is going to do the job again, no cost. He has always backed his work.....
I spoke with the engine builder. He remember's installing it by the book, new bolt torque, locktight etc. Since he has a number of LS1's laying around, the only explanation was that the "new" bolt he used wasn't really new and from another car in the shop. Maybe one of his other guys mixed some of the parts up.
In any case, I am taking it in and he is going to do the job again, no cost. He has always backed his work.....
Cheers!
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 32,739
Likes: 19
From: Try not to complain so much....
St. Jude Donor '14
Originally Posted by byte_me
You should have them put on an underdrive pulley if they are going thru all the trouble of pulling the rack out to fix it. I would also recommend having them pin it as mentioned above to avoid the excessive torque needed to tighten it and the dredded backing off of the crank itself as it ages...my 97 has a wabble in the crank pulley and I got a replacement from Summit Racing for $209 + shipping...good for a 10HP or so increase and if pinned...never backs off...
Cheers!
Cheers!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,625
Likes: 1
From: Rhode Island
Originally Posted by Fastguy
You have to use a crapload of torque to seat the pulley and the torque to yield bolt is 240 lb ft. I use a big bar on an old torque wrench to get it to seat and then put in the new bolt and torque it down. Check to see if the bolt is loose. Sometimes people re-use that bolt and it backs out.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 822
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From: Grafton Ohio
Originally Posted by cbx1047cc
I am in the process of doing a heads/cam swap now. I have an A4. I'm going to install an MTI underdrive pulley. Will I have to lock the flywheel when I install the pulley to get it to seat all the way?
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?ar...3d17efd9f279ec
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
Originally Posted by cbx1047cc
I am in the process of doing a heads/cam swap now. I have an A4. I'm going to install an MTI underdrive pulley. Will I have to lock the flywheel when I install the pulley to get it to seat all the way?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,625
Likes: 1
From: Rhode Island
Originally Posted by vettenuts
Yes. Since its all apart, I would also consider pinning the crank. ATI makes a good kit for this, but you will need to cut a key in the pulley hub.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 32,739
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From: Try not to complain so much....
St. Jude Donor '14
I don't think Pinning is all that common. I talked to two LS1 builders here and they don't do it all that often. I will go with a normal setup and if it happens again, I will pin it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,625
Likes: 1
From: Rhode Island
Just FYI, I removed my stock pulley last night and before I did, I accurately measured the distance from the rear of the pulley (closest to engine block) to the flat surface of the timing chain cover and it was exactly 1". I have never had any belt problems before. When I install the new UD pulley, I am going to try to seat it with my impact wrench (good for up to 600 lbs. torque) using the old bolt, and then measure the distance to the block. Then I will remove the old bolt and tighten the new bolt to 37 ft/lbs.
Question: Should I add loctite to the new crank bolt? It seems to already have thread sealant on it now.
Question: Should I add loctite to the new crank bolt? It seems to already have thread sealant on it now.
