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Problems after cam swap....

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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 03:51 PM
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From: Try not to complain so much....
St. Jude Donor '14
Default Problems after cam swap....

I had a new cam installed a few months ago. Car runs great with one exception, the AC belt keeps coming off. It usually comes off at normal speeds, gets chewed up by the engine and I have to cut it out. The engine builder installed a new one twice.

After the last one (Sunday) I bought a new belt and installed it myself. I cleaned everything, made sure it was free of debris and spent a great deal of time making sure everything is seated correct.

Runs fine, took it for a test drive, and when I got back, it seems both belts are moved over one rib toward the engine. The main belt is over one, and the AC belt seems to be leaning that way.

So my question: to do a cam, lifter, spring mod, you have to remove the crank pulley to get to the cover ? Its almost as if the crank pully is too far forward or all the accessories are too far back. How could the crank be too far foward ?

I want this fixed once and for all if there is a problem with the mod work....

Last edited by GTrain; Nov 23, 2005 at 04:17 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 04:16 PM
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From: Montreal Drive it like you test it !
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Yes. The crank pulley needs to be removed. The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed .094-.176 inches in the balancer bore.

Edit. picture

Last edited by vette747; Nov 23, 2005 at 04:23 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 04:18 PM
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What did you install for a damper/pulley and timing chain? It does sound like it is an issue with the damper/pulley though.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 04:18 PM
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From: Try not to complain so much....
St. Jude Donor '14
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Originally Posted by vette747
Yes. The crank pulley needs to be removed. The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed .094-.176 inches in the balancer bore.
Are you saying it may not have been done right and the crank is out too far ?
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by vette747
Yes. The crank pulley needs to be removed. The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed .094-.176 inches in the balancer bore.

Edit. picture
Thanks for the input. You think maybe this wasn't done on the install and its flush ?
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 04:27 PM
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I just added a picture to my previous post. That will help you to verify.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 04:31 PM
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From: Montreal Drive it like you test it !
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Maybe. If both belts (AC and Accessory) belt goes off, the crank pulley is the only one running on both belts.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 04:34 PM
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From: Montreal Drive it like you test it !
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If belts are moving 1 rib toward the engine, I would say that that the pulley was not pushed far (close to the engine) enough.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 04:40 PM
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From: Try not to complain so much....
St. Jude Donor '14
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Originally Posted by vette747
If belts are moving 1 rib toward the engine, I would say that that the pulley was not pushed far (close to the engine) enough.
Do you have a page number on that diagram ? I have the set-of-3 manuals....

Thanks again...
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 04:46 PM
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I think you have a bad crank pully. did you have it replaced with a new one or did you reuse the stock one? My dad's (and a few people's here) actually seperated. The pully part came loose from the dampener and actually started to rub on the timing chain cover. This could be your problem.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 04:59 PM
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St. Jude Donor '14
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Here is a pic of the main belt after the test drive.

When I put it back together, I made sure it was seated on the crank and all places. After a mile, it pulled left.

If you reach in and feel the other small belt on the crank, the last rib in pushed up and heading over the edge. When I left, I also insured this was seated....

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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Jackal
I think you have a bad crank pully. did you have it replaced with a new one or did you reuse the stock one? My dad's (and a few people's here) actually seperated. The pully part came loose from the dampener and actually started to rub on the timing chain cover. This could be your problem.

That, and, the crank as mentioned above, could be the crux of your dilemma. Good luck to you. Let us know how it all turns out.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 05:18 PM
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From: Montreal Drive it like you test it !
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Originally Posted by GTrain
Do you have a page number on that diagram ? I have the set-of-3 manuals....

Thanks again...
page 6-258
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 05:27 PM
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Yep you need a new crank pulley.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 05:30 PM
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From: Montreal Drive it like you test it !
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Originally Posted by Jackal
I think you have a bad crank pully. did you have it replaced with a new one or did you reuse the stock one? My dad's (and a few people's here) actually seperated. The pully part came loose from the dampener and actually started to rub on the timing chain cover. This could be your problem.

Yes it appends a lot. I got this problem on my C4 too. Most of the time the pulley goes toward the motor when situation occurs. In your case it appears that the pulley is not closed enough to the engine. If you want to check, start the car and see if the pulley wobbles.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 05:59 PM
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From: Try not to complain so much....
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Originally Posted by vette747
In your case it appears that the pulley is not closed enough to the engine. If you want to check, start the car and see if the pulley wobbles.
I didn't think the pulley was bad, just not spaced correctly. I don't see any wobble in the pully.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 06:03 PM
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IN my case the belt kept coming off, the pulley was not in enough. I took care of that and didn't have any more problems. Eventually my pulley was bad and replaced it. GMdirects is the place to go for a good price. THe GM dealer charges alot more.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 06:23 PM
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You have to use a crapload of torque to seat the pulley and the torque to yield bolt is 240 lb ft. I use a big bar on an old torque wrench to get it to seat and then put in the new bolt and torque it down. Check to see if the bolt is loose. Sometimes people re-use that bolt and it backs out.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Fastguy
You have to use a crapload of torque to seat the pulley and the torque to yield bolt is 240 lb ft. I use a big bar on an old torque wrench to get it to seat and then put in the new bolt and torque it down. Check to see if the bolt is loose. Sometimes people re-use that bolt and it backs out.
Yeah I was just reading in the manual to use a new bolt. This is going to suck because I think the rack in in the way.....
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 06:32 PM
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looks like the crank pulley is not deep enough[to far foward].if the pulley seperated.the ring is walking foward.i would check the crank snout depth.
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