When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Will it hurt to drill a hole through the tunnel cover so I can run the plug through the cover. I plan on running the wires up through the shifter hole into the car. If I drill the whole and seal it back up that will save me from having to pull the exhaust and remove the cover just to run the wires.
A buddy and I just took a few screws out of each side of his tunnel plate to make room to push the WB sensor plug and cable through to the shifter access hole then replaced and torqued the screws. There was just enough clearance between the tunnel plate and frame for the cable. Very clean setup.
I routed mine through the front of the tunnel and into the shifter access hole. No muss, no fuss.
A buddy and I just took a few screws out of each side of his tunnel plate to make room to push the WB sensor plug and cable through to the shifter access hole then replaced and torqued the screws. There was just enough clearance between the tunnel plate and frame for the cable. Very clean setup.
I routed mine through the front of the tunnel and into the shifter access hole. No muss, no fuss.
I installed it today. I ended up removing some of the bolts off the tunnel plate and was able to slide the wires and connector up through the shifter. I mounted my gauge, led, and reset button all in the ash tray so once I close the lid its all out of site.
A little late, but I used a 9/16"" bit through the tranny tunnel plate for the wires to come through with gromment. Then slotted my reinforcement plate to slide over the wiring for the wideband sensor (mounted where the cats should be).
Well, my header bung is far enough fwd that the ABS plate is a non issue?
same here.
here is where I installed my extra bung (just upstream of the pupcat):
I do not leave my WB O2 sensor in all the time - just for tuning, then I remove it and cap the bung.
I made a 1 foot sensor extension cable out of scrap sensor harness ends. With just one connector end attached, I drilled a 5/32 hole in the floorboard - near the tunnel and poked the wire through to the interior. Then I soldered on the other (inside) connector end. The 1 foot extension stays installed (obviously). The inside end is tucked up inside the center console and is easily pulled out when needed. The outside end is wire-tied up - out of the way - and the connector end is sealed in a plastic bag for protection
Is it feasible to leave the O2 sensor in place and use a toggle switch to turn the guage/sensor on and off. It burns out from constant use, right? Or is it just because of it's placement. It seems like a PITA to put it in and take it out each time.
Is it feasible to leave the O2 sensor in place and use a toggle switch to turn the guage/sensor on and off. It burns out from constant use, right? Or is it just because of it's placement. It seems like a PITA to put it in and take it out each time.
It is my understanding that if you leave the sensor installed in the bung then you want it to come on when the engince runs otherwise there is the potential for moisture to accumulate on the sensor and ruin it. Otherwise it should be removed from the exhaust when not in use.
I too think it would be a real pain to install and remove every time you wanted to do some tuning. So I plan to leave mine in and take a chance.