With 2 threads showing on my rear bolts, the passenger side rear is still approx. 3/4" higher than the driver's side rear. I know I could put a longer bolt on the rear left but didn't know if this is the proper way to even them out.

Sam

 

after lowering, did you remember to drive it a little bit. it will settle to it's normal height.

2. If the bolts are the same size, and they are threaded through the same amount, they should be the exact same height. It just sounds like one is still up after being on the jack and hasn't had weight put on it.

 

It's been like this for months, I don't think it is a settling issue.

 

Sam,
3/4" is pretty far off.
Just because the bolts have the same amount of threads showing does not mean the ride height will be the same. This is a popular misconception. You are probably measuring at the fenders which are not always the same side to side.
First make sure the bushings are seated properly. I don't see how they could not be.
Then get longer bolts for the rear (both sides). Adjust to taste. Do not worry at all how many threads are showing.

 

Also check your fornt, I have heard that it cross effects. If your right front is high, it will make your left rear low. Good luck!

 

maybe someone has the measure points and can post them. there are several spots to actually measure this to adjust. i had to raise mine back to stk cause my driveway situation and some one told me where and how in the forum a few months ago. try a search or post for these in the tech section im sure someone here knows where and how. i got my new front bolts and bushings thru a supporting vendor called hardbar. the guy there new his stuff and was the only to manufacture these front bolts. they are only offered from chev. by purchaseing the entire front spring. the rears are found everywhere. they are cheap also. $20-$35 depending on where you get them. the earlier post about front being off is absolutely accurate. front off 1/2 will make rear of lots

 

Good post...Sort of like trying to get all the legs level on a 4 legged stool. You adjust one corner and it effects the others.

I recommend using the lower control arm pivot bolts as a reference point.

 

Do not count or measure thread lengths. You have to measure the frame and or the point where the A-arm mounts.

Dont lower more then 1 inch, it WILL mess your handleing in high speed corners.

Disconnect the end links then adjust
Do the front first, then the rear. The rear should be slightly higher then the front.

If you measure on the frame rails, just in front of the jacking puck holes in front and just behind the rear jacking puck holes the differens should be 4-5mm or 1/4 to 3/8" higher in the rear. DO not measure to the center of the fenders, Body parts are NOT equal.

Now remeber to put your weight in the drivers seat when you adjust ride height. I use 11 old brake rotors at 17lbs each

that way your car is level with you in it. It will be 1/8 to 3/16s" higher on the left when you are not in the car.

When the height is were you want it, reconnect the end links to the sway bars.

when you lower your car you will get more negativer camber, but it may not be equal negative camber, that means alignement time with your race / track wheels( at 40 psi) not your street wheels.

This would also be the ideal time to corner weight your car.

If you get it wrong you will have uneven wieght( much less) on one tire, which could be disatorious in a high speed corner.

Lowering for performance is not as easy as ppl think. T1 cars are at stock ride height for a reason, it is best for performance.

Good Luck