Over the past week or so, every time I get in my vette and turn the key it would hesitate to start. In fact, I thought several times that it wasn't going to at all. It would make a clicking noise and nothing would happen. But then I'd turn the key again and it would (very hesitantly) turn over and then start. But this morning it didn't start at all. It tried to but waivered and then died. Now all I get is the clicking. Also, I don't know if this is just coincidence or not but it does seem like it started happening when the weather got really cold. Now, I just want to say, my mechanical knowledge is very limited but I'm assuming it IS the battery since it's been running fine other than the starting issue. Is this a safe assumption or could it possibly be anything else (like the alternator)??? If it is just the battery, I was thinking I could buy one and install it myself to save money since if I take it to the dealership they'll probably overcharge me for "diagnostics" and battery install. But I want to be sure that IS the problem before I do it. Is there any way to know for sure?? I would welcome any advice.

 

sounds like it.make sure connections are clean and tight.make sure it hasn't began to leak[if so,use baking soda and water to clean it up].

 

Look at your DIC battery volts with the ignition on (and engine/heater blower/radio off). 11.4 volts is completely discharged and 12.9 volts is completely charged. Try charging battery if on low side. If charging battery does NOT fix, do a load test on battery.

 

Most part stores will change the battery for free. Take it to Auto Zone, ask them to load test it, and have them replace it with an Optima Red Top.

 

The DIC wouldn't even come up this morning. So I don't think I can check it there.

 

get a battery

 

Why do you recommend an Optima Red top? Murray's wants to sell me a Delco.

 

I bought a brand new Professional Series Delco battery for my vette last year, absoltely no problems with it at all! The older batteries may have had some leaking issues, but I think the newer delco's are just fine! Call me Crazy but I like the "factory" look of the Delco Battery!

Jason

 

So if I asked for a "Professional Series Delco" I should get the right thing you think?

 

Your NOT going to go wrong with any new battery that you purchase! I use the RED TOP and it went bad 6 months after it was installed! Warranty took care of it. Just purchase any battery rated for the car! It will work fine. Asking forum members what is the best battery is a lot like asking what beer is best!!

Just get rid of that dead POS that is in there now!! Reset your DTC codes when you get the new battery all hooked up. You will find that the dead battery has set a ton of DTC codes

Here is a website for you!

This is the absolute best C5 Code web site!!!

http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index.html

http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index-1.html

http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html

The sound effects are cool too!!




Bill C

 

You need a battery that won't leak onto the computer and the Optima is an absorbent glass mat (AGM) battery. The computer is underneath the battery tray so if your battery develops a leak, it can trash the wiring and computer.

Delco batteries are prone to leaking at the terminals, at least in my experience. So the question is, do you want to risk trashing your computer? If not, get some type of AGM battery. Exide makes them also. Delco does not make them any more.

 

Well, it does seem that the optima red top is the preferred battery of most CF members and I guess even if it's not the best one I'd rather not take a chance of destroying the computer beneath it so I'll probably go with the red top just to be safe. Thanks for the recommendation.

 

You might want to see this - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...100&forum_id=1

I would pass on the Red Top and get something a bit beefier, like the Exide Orbital.

 

Haha.....well, it seems every time I've decided on a battery I get a new piece of information. But now that I've done some more research it sounds to me like both the red tops AND the exide orbitals can possibly leak. So I guess there's no way to absolutely ensure that the battery won't leak. That's what I'm getting.

 

With all the talk about leaking side post batteries, why no go to a top post battery? The side to top post adapters look like they would work for the cables.

 

Well, I suppose I'm just b*tching now but I really don't know what to do. I tried jumping my car last night and nothing. I mean, it didn't even turn over. I guess the battery is COMPLETELY dead. What really sucks though is I'm parked in the driveway which slants down to the street at a pretty extreme angle. Normally (when the car actually starts) I ease out of the driveway VERY gently so as not to scrape. But now I don't know what to do because I guess I have to get it towed. I don't know if I should leave it in the driveway or try to get it out onto the street. I don't even want to get it towed at all really because one time I watched one of my previous cars get towed and the tow truck driver wasn't exactly what I would call careful........I really wish I could just drive it to a service shop myself so I knew it got there safely.......this sucks!!

 

powlison - If you don't want someone to Tow it then don't have it done. After reading your post it looks like everything you wrote is Textbook dead battery. Even after you said you tried to jump the car and it didn't work. When the battery is really dead you have to leave the cables on for quite a long time to get the car to turn over.

Don't call the tow truck, if you have a socket set you can do the job. If you look down on the side of the battery you will see a bolt at the bottom that holds the, for a lack of a better word -puck, which clamps agaisnt the lip on the bottom of the battery. Also you will need to undo the wire terminals on the side of the battery once yo have done this and things are clear just pull straight up. This is a job shouldn't require a high degree of automotive knowledge. Only minor things come to mind if you've never pulled a battery.

One, when you put the new one in it should have at least an 85% charge so if you use some sort of longer wrench don't let the handle of the wrench contact the other terminal and short out.

Second look down at the base of the battery where it's clamped by the "puck", take note of how that has to go back before you start the job also on the opposite side of the battery the battery tray will have a piece that the battery lip hooks into, make sure that you note what both sides look like before you take it out so that you can put it back the same way. Once you get it in and the car starts you can take to a local mechanic if you want someone to check your mounting to make sure you did it right.

Good luck and when the battery is out check the tray for signs of battery acid. If you need to, clean the area which water and baking soda.

 

Well, ok. This is kind of embarassing to admit but I really have no experience working on cars whatsoever. And it's not that I don't have the understanding so much as I've never actually done the work myself. So I don't even own the basic tools (socket wrenches, jack, etc.). But let's say I wanted to go purchase a socket set to do this job and maybe a few other simple jobs. What exactly would I be looking for at the hardware store? Sorry to have to ask such a basic question but I don't really know what size wrenches I'd need to work on my car. If you could point me in the right direction (without laughing at me too much) I'd really apprecate it. Thanks.

 

powlison - To start it comes down to how much money you want to spend and if you plan to continue working on cars or if you really never wanted to work on cars. If you said you just wanted to do this project I would say pay someone to do the job or just get a cheap set of tools at K-mart, pep-boys, etc.

If you do plan on working more on things in the garage then I would start with Craftsman tools or something of that level. I'm not sure about the others but Craftsman hand tools are backed for life so if you break one you just take it back. There are tool companies that are even better yet for example Snap-On but at this point I would say they would be a waste of money for you.

Who ever you choose this job can be done with a basic socket set. I can't remember the size sockets you'll need for the battery hold down (puck) and terminals. For some reason 5/16" sticks out in my head for the terminals and the hold down is prob. metric so maybe 13-14 mm but that is a "Seat of the Pants" guess on the size. Plus a 6" extention would make the battery hold down easier. You should be able to find a starter kit that has an assortment of sizes, extentions and drives <-- the handle that you use to turn the socket.

Also down the road a set of screw drivers, pliers, wrenches, and last but not least the biggest hammer you can find. The screw drivers and pliers may come in handy around the house not just in the garage. The biggest hammer line was just a joke but if you do get the biggest, be careful not to drop it on your toe.

Good luck and let us know if you have questions, honestly if anyone else is reading this I'll bet someone has some pics of the battery hold down and someone else might be able to help out with the socket sizes.
That's the best I can do right now from my desk at work.

 

Go to sears get the 100 piece set.