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If our memory serves...the first was indeed gear whine and that unit was built long before we ever started cryogenically treating the gear sets. (about 2 years ago or so) We rebuilt that differential and upgraded you to the newer cryogenically treated gear set under warranty at no charge. The second, according to your earlier statements, broke (split open the main case) from racing and I don't think you had a differential strut installed to protect against that either when it broke.
Yes, the first one was gear whine. So I guess it didn't "go out" but it did need to be serviced. The second one did crack. I can't remember but I think the brace was just coming out when I got it returned but I am not posotive. I think you guys have an awesome product. I am just disappointed how I was treated this last time around with getting my rear end fixed. I do recommend you still to everyone that I speak with. Kaley
I would follow dans advise and just called and speak to Phil or Jenny. That way you on't mess up the warrenty unless you already have by making this post. Kaley
I would follow dans advise and just called and speak to Phil or Jenny. That way you on't mess up the warrenty unless you already have by making this post. Kaley
DTE has posted here numerous times backing up their product. I think they should be able to answer my question. I am not looking to file a warranty claim as I have a daily driver don't have the time.
Are my gears toast, or is the problem I am experiencing with excessive tire wear on the right rear tire caused by me running Redline 75w90 with the lsd additive that comes included and not running a "special blend" required by DTE?
Will switching to the "special blend" fix my issue or do I need a new diff?
The break in proceedure is super critical, when i picked up my car i was given a break in proceedure sheet that they told me to read and to be sure to follow. This was a cryogenically treated unit with 3.90's. The mechanic , and the service manager told me they drove the car and im going to like it. As`im reading the break in sheet it says along with making sure to use the additive , to drive the car easy for about 15 minutes on the street no hard acceleration , let completely cool down, drive moderatly for 5 miles on street then 15 miles on freeway. I when they pulled the car up they saw the paper in my hand and said it was very important to follow those instructions. I said ,if you guys didnt do what this sheet says then it was not done properly already. I proceeded to take the car home were the gears were quiet for 1 day befroe they were screaming so bad i couldnt even drive it home from work 2 blocks. Dont take there word for it be there for the break in.
Why is it that stage 2 only comes with the left hardend output shaft and not the right one? I mean jeez why not install the right one while your at it?
Thats like buying rims for only the left side of the car but not the right... lol?
It is very un common for the right shaft to break. The point of having "stages" is to save the consumer money by not having to buy something that you do not need. I think the right shaft is something like $300 so instead of paying $1500 for a stage 2 unit you would be closer to $2000 when you really don't need to be. Kaley
It's quite simple...just use the required lubricant we recommend and you're set. We've yet to receive any type of contact from you requesting new documantation and in one of your last posts a few days ago, you stated you would, so we're not sure what you're after....
As far as any damage being done already...who knows and only time will tell now, as the proper lubricant use is a MUST for long-term durability. Since your installer failed to give you the proper documentation or to add the correct lubricant in the first place, it appears as if any warranty issues may rest upon the shoulders of the installer due to their negligence. Our 7-page documentation packett we include with every single differential we build is VERY clearly written and VERY specifc about care/maintainance of our product. It's even strapped to the differential itself, so the end user/installer MUST cut the seal to remove the packett from the differential case for installation. If it's not followed as we direct, we can assure premature failure nearly 100% of the time.
There was another customer on here a while ago that had the same thing happen to him... The installer (dealership) installed one of our differentials for him, failed to give him his documentation and basically told him to "just beat the crap out of it" as soon as he got in the car, for which the customer promptly did a huge burn-out in front of the dealership.... Needless to say, that dealership has now assumed responsibility for that differential for completely neglecting and blatently disregarding our break-in requirements. It's not the customer's fault...it was the third-party installer's fault and we see this type of negligence going on all the time unfortunately with 3rd-party installers....