My right rear tire is quite a bit more worn than the left rear. I can feel it when driving at lower speeds, the left rear skips when making turns at times.

I have the DTE 4.10's. I read a post by them a while back where they recommend adding a bottle of friction modifier even if the fluid already has some added. I am running Redline 75w90 with the limited slip additive premixed.

Anyone else have this issue? I am going to try adding some more friction modifier to see if it helps. I need new tires soon and would like them to wear even.

 

You need to be careful here.. If you hope to ever use DTE's warranty services, you need to follow the directions.

DTE clearly states that you are to use the Redline fluid, and ONLY the Redline fluid, AND one bottle of GM additive, PERIOD. DTE uses stiffer springs in the clutch packs, and you need the additional friction modifier.

Don't make trouble for yourself by second-guessing the experts.

 

It is rumored that using too much friction modifier actually worsens the problem.

 

I did not hear anything about the DTE's requiring additional friction modifier until about 9 months after installing the gears. Since it seems they require it now, I will give it a try.

Has anyone else had a similar issue? Has adding some additional friction modifier (above what comes premixed with redline) fix the problem?

 

We've *always* required addtional friction modifier in our differentials that use our HD preload springs since we started building these 3 1/2 years ago and our detailed maintainance instructions that are included with each differential clearly state that also.

Did you purchase the differential from a dealer?

Did a third-party installer put the differential in your car for you?

Did they put the recommended lubricants and FMA we provided with your differential in it's entirety?

Did they give you your differential packett that is included with the differential?


We've found that many dealers or third-party installers often neglect to give their customers any of our documentation we include with our differentials that is actually meant for the end-user customer in the first place~ which is not the way it should be done....

If you need a new copy of these documents or if you need any of our newest pre-blended Redline 75w/140 we now use for greater differential heat protection, give us a call or send an email and we'll get you taken care of.

 

Ive been reading about DTE rears pooping out.

Id like to get gears, but im concerned.

DTE, where are the problem areas your seeing.

2) once a DTE rear is installed how often to I need to change the fluid

3) what's the break in method for the rears

4) what's the maintaince like for the DTE rear?

5) why is it so differant from the stock rear. (as far as pooping out )

6) what mistakes do you see owners doing (like someone needing stage II but buying stage I)

please help me be confident in your product.

 

More questions for DTE…

Are the posi clutch springs in your units much stronger than stock?

If yes..why?

Is higher posi clutch pack spring force always the best thing for an AutoXer / Roads Course Car?



I can understand the up side to a super tight posi unit for a drag racer...

 

That's news to us..... Where's the links to where you are "reading" this?

As stated, that's news to us and we're not "seeing" any issues. We have been the *ONLY* IRS differential builder to date that has invested heavily into the R&D of this type of Corvette differential to provide our customers with highly-engineered IRS differentials to meet a multitude of applications. In fact, many have even gone as far as to try to directly copy our HD component design for themselves.... Our positive reputation in the driveline area has *already* been proven time and time again over the years...

If you look closely at the level of attention to build details, the exclusivity of our in-house engineered HD components and our proprietary building techniques, you'll soon see where the major differences are. Addtionally, we have been the *ONLY* Corvette IRS differential builder to perfect the 2-series conversions for HP use, without sacrificing durability in any way. We've got dealers, distributors and users of our HD differentials and driveline products all over the world and if they didn't perform as well as we state, we would not be as succesful with this endeavor as we are today. The quality of the product speaks for us and always has...

All of these questions are clearly answered and written in our 7-page documentation packett we include with each outgoing differential. If you would like one, we would be glad to send it to you, so give us a call, give us your address and we'll mail it out to you.

The list is literally endeless and much of that information is directly found here: http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dte_c5_diff.htm

Again, the list is endless, but we'll recap w/ a shortlist~ Folks buying a differential model that is *under-rated* for their application because they don't want to spend the money..., folks *NOT* changing the oil as we instruct..., folks thinking they can drive through destructive wheel hop, when they can't..., folks *not* changing the oil after racing events that over heats the lubricants...., folks completely disregarding the break-in procedures because they *think* they don't need it..., folks who drag race heavily, dump the clutch at 5000+ RPM and think they don't need a differential strut for whatever reason, then shattering the driveline anyway...., etc, etc, etc, as the list goes on and on.

We have been the *ONLY* IRS differential builder to date that has invested heavily into the R&D of this type of Corvette differential to provide our customers with highly-engineered IRS differentials to meet a multitude of applications. In fact, many have even gone as far as to try to directly copy our HD component design for themselves.... Our positive reputation in the driveline area has *already* been proven time and time again over the years...

If you look closely at the level of attention to build details, the exclusivity of our in-house engineered HD components and our proprietary building techniques, you'll soon see where the major differences are. Addtionally, we have been the *ONLY* Corvette IRS differential builder to perfect the 2-series conversions for HP use, without sacrificing durability in any way. We've got dealers, distributors and users of our HD differentials and driveline products all over the world and if they didn't perform as well as we state, we would not be as succesful with this endeavor as we are today. The quality of the product speaks for us and always has...



Yes and always have been. See here: http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dte_c5_diff_acc.htm

That really depends on tha applications and the power of the car. We build quite a number of differentials for road racers, auto-x'ers and driving school instructors and they are very pleased with the performance of our products.


DTE

 

So how often do you need to change the fluids on a car with 400-450 RWHP with fun street driving . No crazy dumps.



I thought it would be easier to post stuff on here rather than through the US snail mail for information. Just could help with more sales. There's a bunch of people that are interested in your rears ( im not sure I like the way that sounds)

 

A shop on the forum installed the gears for me. According to them, they use the redline 75w90 and made no mention of adding any additional friction modifier. I received no documentation with the differential after install, they simply told me to go easy for the first 500 miles.

I will send you an email requesting the documents.

My question for you now is will the problem I am experiencing go away if I switch to the proper fluid mixture? If so, what is the mixture? Or do you think the problem indicates the differential is broken?

 

Another DTE Question...

Posi Clutch Pack Spring Force?

If the spring force depends on the applications and the power of the car.

And you’ve build quite a number of differentials for road racers, auto-x'ers and driving school instructors and they are very pleased with the performance of our products.

Do I have to contact you and special order my diff for AutoX and HPDE?

 

I have had two DTE rears go out. The first was covered under warrenty the second was not. I think I am just gonna go with the stock raers. They are alot cheaper to replace when they blow. You need to be careful what you post on here. Because the installer may have missed something you may have just voided your warrenty with DTE. Kaley

 

What broke? Bearings? Ring/Pinion?

 

I am in the process of taking it out now. So I am not sure yet. The case is cracked. That is all I know for sure. The first one I had problems with the gears whining. Jenny was more then willing to help out with the warrenty. This second time around is a different story. Kaley

 

If our memory serves...the first was indeed gear whine and that unit was built long before we ever started cryogenically treating the gear sets. (about 2 years ago or so) We rebuilt that differential and upgraded you to the newer cryogenically treated gear set under warranty at no charge. The second, according to your earlier statements, broke (split open the main case) from racing and I don't think you had a differential strut installed to protect against that either when it broke.

 

Also to answer someone's question~

That's proprietary information, but it is approx. 34% greater than stock and the preload springs are built with improved materials and engineering que's over stock also.

Not from the power of the car, but rather the application of the car with whatever available power from the combination/gearing, etc, etc, etc.

All of our differentials are special order, but there isn't a difference between any model other than the HD item options chosen for it's build.

 

 

Every 12,000 miles and more frequently between these intervals when racing is involved. Prevantative maint. is much less costly than ruining a differential due to infrequent lubricant changes.

 

Ok thanks

that's the answer I was looking for

 

Did Cryo solve the problem that caused the gear noise?