Check Engine light
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Check Engine light
The check engine light on my 1997 Corvette has come on twice in the past month. The first time I went to Advanced Auto Parts for a diagnostic scan and their hand-held computer analyzed that it was a Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction code #P0410. The guys at Advanced couldn't tell me what that meant. So I called around to different mechanics and even the local dealership couldn't tell me what that Malfunction meant, let alone how to fix it. I had the guy at Advanced erase the Check Engine light after the computer scan. About 2 weeks later it came on again. This time I went to Discount Auto Parts, had them do a scan, and their computer also came up with the same code #P0410 and Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction problem. Can anyone out there tell me what may be causing this and what I need to do to get this fixed? The car runs just fine and I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary. I always use 93 Octane fuel, never the lower grades, no matter how much it's hurting my wallet right now.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 7,370
Likes: 8
From: Slave to the evil empire
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Donor '04
You don't need a scanner to check codes, follow this link to find out how: https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=26&TopicID=1
I don't have my service manual handy but if I remember right a P0410 secondary air injection has to do with the air injection check valve for the right exhaust manifold, I want to double check when I get home before I start to say something thats wrong or maybe someone will chime in before I get a chance to look it up.
I don't have my service manual handy but if I remember right a P0410 secondary air injection has to do with the air injection check valve for the right exhaust manifold, I want to double check when I get home before I start to say something thats wrong or maybe someone will chime in before I get a chance to look it up.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
My daughter's Envoy just went through this, and it was the air pump and the check valve. On the Vettes, I would suspect the check valves first. On the Envoy, they mounted the pump in a really dumb place and it ingests water and takes out the whole system. There are two check valves, one is easy to see on the driver's side exhaust, unfortunately the other one is behind the intake bolted to the back of the head. You need to find a dealer that can properly assess the problem or take a shot at the driver's side check valve as it is very easy to replace.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 0
From: Roswell New Mexico
St. Jude Donor '07-'08
I wouldn't pay anyone to fix that. Just clear the code as it comes up using the method described above. The air system is for emissions only and will not hinder the performance of the car at all. The first thing i did with every ls1 car i bought was remove the EGR, if equipped, and the AIR system.
Good luck
Good luck
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Thank you everyone for your help and taking the time to respond. I'm going to take a look at the links you suggested and then wait for the additional information some of you indicated you'd post/send in before taking any action. Thanks again in the meantime.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
P0410 indicates that BOTH banks are not responding.
The A.I.R. system has a couple of things that make it un happy! The first and most common thing are stuck shut check valves. I doubt that both are clogged but, ya never know. They are easy to fix if you understand how the air flows through the system. The check valve on the drivers side is very easy to get to and check. I would remove it and see if you can blow air through it in the direction of the manifold. While that valve is removed, plug the pipe up that comes off the exhaust manfold and start the car. If that valve is removed, the A.I.R. pump that lives under the drivers side head light should come on and you should feel air flowing out of the hose from the pump. My guess is that the pump isn't suppling air to either check valve.
If by chance that the check valves are stuck, spray them out with brake parts cleaner and then some WD-40. The passenger side valve lives in the back of the intake manifold and is difficult to get to. I just remove the hose going to it and blast in some cleaner followed by WD-40 and force it through with compressed air.
Please let me know if the AIR Pump is suppling air at start up. The pump should run for a few minutes after the engine starts and then shut off. The reason that you are getting the light on the way to work is the AIR System conducts an AIR system run test during closed loop. The O2 sensors should detect that the pump is supplying air in the exhaust system and then it completes the test. If they don't see the change during the test, you get that code. If you get a P-1415 or P1416 code, that would indicate that only one bank failed.
Do you have a properly operating HVAC system ducting? Can you switch from the defrost vents to the dash vents and then to the lower foot well vents??? I need to know that answer.
There are two vacuum operated systems on your car. The HVAC system and that damn AIR system!! If the AIR pump isn't getting the vacuum signal, bingo!
Please check all of these things and let me know what you find out.
BC
The A.I.R. system has a couple of things that make it un happy! The first and most common thing are stuck shut check valves. I doubt that both are clogged but, ya never know. They are easy to fix if you understand how the air flows through the system. The check valve on the drivers side is very easy to get to and check. I would remove it and see if you can blow air through it in the direction of the manifold. While that valve is removed, plug the pipe up that comes off the exhaust manfold and start the car. If that valve is removed, the A.I.R. pump that lives under the drivers side head light should come on and you should feel air flowing out of the hose from the pump. My guess is that the pump isn't suppling air to either check valve.
If by chance that the check valves are stuck, spray them out with brake parts cleaner and then some WD-40. The passenger side valve lives in the back of the intake manifold and is difficult to get to. I just remove the hose going to it and blast in some cleaner followed by WD-40 and force it through with compressed air.
Please let me know if the AIR Pump is suppling air at start up. The pump should run for a few minutes after the engine starts and then shut off. The reason that you are getting the light on the way to work is the AIR System conducts an AIR system run test during closed loop. The O2 sensors should detect that the pump is supplying air in the exhaust system and then it completes the test. If they don't see the change during the test, you get that code. If you get a P-1415 or P1416 code, that would indicate that only one bank failed.
Do you have a properly operating HVAC system ducting? Can you switch from the defrost vents to the dash vents and then to the lower foot well vents??? I need to know that answer.
There are two vacuum operated systems on your car. The HVAC system and that damn AIR system!! If the AIR pump isn't getting the vacuum signal, bingo!
Please check all of these things and let me know what you find out.
BC
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,315
Likes: 27
From: Central Florida
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
P0410 indicates that BOTH banks are not responding.
The A.I.R. system has a couple of things that make it un happy! The first and most common thing are stuck shut check valves. I doubt that both are clogged but, ya never know. They are easy to fix if you understand how the air flows through the system. The check valve on the drivers side is very easy to get to and check. I would remove it and see if you can blow air through it in the direction of the manifold. While that valve is removed, plug the pipe up that comes off the exhaust manfold and start the car. If that valve is removed, the A.I.R. pump that lives under the drivers side head light should come on and you should feel air flowing out of the hose from the pump. My guess is that the pump isn't suppling air to either check valve.
If by chance that the check valves are stuck, spray them out with brake parts cleaner and then some WD-40. The passenger side valve lives in the back of the intake manifold and is difficult to get to. I just remove the hose going to it and blast in some cleaner followed by WD-40 and force it through with compressed air.
Please let me know if the AIR Pump is suppling air at start up. The pump should run for a few minutes after the engine starts and then shut off. The reason that you are getting the light on the way to work is the AIR System conducts an AIR system run test during closed loop. The O2 sensors should detect that the pump is supplying air in the exhaust system and then it completes the test. If they don't see the change during the test, you get that code. If you get a P-1415 or P1416 code, that would indicate that only one bank failed.
Do you have a properly operating HVAC system ducting? Can you switch from the defrost vents to the dash vents and then to the lower foot well vents??? I need to know that answer.
There are two vacuum operated systems on your car. The HVAC system and that damn AIR system!! If the AIR pump isn't getting the vacuum signal, bingo!
Please check all of these things and let me know what you find out.
BC
The A.I.R. system has a couple of things that make it un happy! The first and most common thing are stuck shut check valves. I doubt that both are clogged but, ya never know. They are easy to fix if you understand how the air flows through the system. The check valve on the drivers side is very easy to get to and check. I would remove it and see if you can blow air through it in the direction of the manifold. While that valve is removed, plug the pipe up that comes off the exhaust manfold and start the car. If that valve is removed, the A.I.R. pump that lives under the drivers side head light should come on and you should feel air flowing out of the hose from the pump. My guess is that the pump isn't suppling air to either check valve.
If by chance that the check valves are stuck, spray them out with brake parts cleaner and then some WD-40. The passenger side valve lives in the back of the intake manifold and is difficult to get to. I just remove the hose going to it and blast in some cleaner followed by WD-40 and force it through with compressed air.
Please let me know if the AIR Pump is suppling air at start up. The pump should run for a few minutes after the engine starts and then shut off. The reason that you are getting the light on the way to work is the AIR System conducts an AIR system run test during closed loop. The O2 sensors should detect that the pump is supplying air in the exhaust system and then it completes the test. If they don't see the change during the test, you get that code. If you get a P-1415 or P1416 code, that would indicate that only one bank failed.
Do you have a properly operating HVAC system ducting? Can you switch from the defrost vents to the dash vents and then to the lower foot well vents??? I need to know that answer.
There are two vacuum operated systems on your car. The HVAC system and that damn AIR system!! If the AIR pump isn't getting the vacuum signal, bingo!
Please check all of these things and let me know what you find out.
BC
Very helpful info! I am having the exact same problem on my
99 FRC. The car is for autocross and has no EGR,Air tubes from
the headers,air pump, or A/C unit. I just started getting the
P0410 code a week or so ago. ( never came up before) Should
I just ignore it and clear the code? Thanks, and sorry for the
thread hijack.
Russ
Cruising
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
I had the exact same code thrown on my 2000. It turned out my battery leaked all over the wiring and PCM. There's a vacuum line inside a wire loom that runs in right under the battery tray that was eaten away by the acid. This line runs to a valve on the air pump. With this line damaged, the valve wouldn't open and send air to the manifolds. The code would clear, but just came back in a few days. I spliced in a new section of hose and no more codes.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
I had the same problem, and i manually removoved the air pump to check it, and it was working great. As soon as i put it in the car, then it would not work. So then i took it to the dealership and they told me that my air pump was bad, but i knew that it wasnt, cause i manually tested it on my bench inside my house. To make a long story short, it turned out to be my air pump solonoid relay, which only takes 30 seconds to change. I spent about 5 hours trying to diagnose things out, by taking the pump out and checking the check valves and so on. So it only turned out to be the relay. Hope it works.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 593
Likes: 1
Just clearing the code everytime it trips is the dead wrong way to solve this. Everytime you clear codes it forces the PCM then to delete ALL internal smog tests, sets them to a failed state and causes the PCM to use some computer time to redo all the tests where some could take up to 40 drive cycles.
This means if your always clearing codes the smog tests stay in a failed state.
AIR design is not the same for all model years, 2001 and newer have the AIR relay by the A pillar on passenger side where pre 2001 the relay is built into the pump so the pump may be good but the relay is bad.
The relay assures when pump is not on that exhaust gases do not get sucked into the pump and ruin it.
Or the hose by the aircleaner has its own foam filter and may be too dirty or the input or output hose of AIR pump is broken or leaking.
Check hoses for leaks or crimped reducing in or out flow of pump
If it is not the AIR itself then its a exhaust or front O2 problem as PCM tests to see if AIR is working on a cold start by when pump comes on the extra air injected into exhaust would cause the O2 to suddenly report lean and that is how PCM judges if AIR is functional or not and not by some check valve.
In most cases its not the check valves but a exhaust or O2 problem causing AIR test to fail
This means if your always clearing codes the smog tests stay in a failed state.
AIR design is not the same for all model years, 2001 and newer have the AIR relay by the A pillar on passenger side where pre 2001 the relay is built into the pump so the pump may be good but the relay is bad.
The relay assures when pump is not on that exhaust gases do not get sucked into the pump and ruin it.
Or the hose by the aircleaner has its own foam filter and may be too dirty or the input or output hose of AIR pump is broken or leaking.
Check hoses for leaks or crimped reducing in or out flow of pump
If it is not the AIR itself then its a exhaust or front O2 problem as PCM tests to see if AIR is working on a cold start by when pump comes on the extra air injected into exhaust would cause the O2 to suddenly report lean and that is how PCM judges if AIR is functional or not and not by some check valve.
In most cases its not the check valves but a exhaust or O2 problem causing AIR test to fail
Originally Posted by 97inCC
The check engine light on my 1997 Corvette has come on twice in the past month. The first time I went to Advanced Auto Parts for a diagnostic scan and their hand-held computer analyzed that it was a Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction code #P0410. The guys at Advanced couldn't tell me what that meant. So I called around to different mechanics and even the local dealership couldn't tell me what that Malfunction meant, let alone how to fix it. I had the guy at Advanced erase the Check Engine light after the computer scan. About 2 weeks later it came on again. This time I went to Discount Auto Parts, had them do a scan, and their computer also came up with the same code #P0410 and Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction problem. Can anyone out there tell me what may be causing this and what I need to do to get this fixed? The car runs just fine and I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary. I always use 93 Octane fuel, never the lower grades, no matter how much it's hurting my wallet right now.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Monks
Bill,
Very helpful info! I am having the exact same problem on my
99 FRC. The car is for autocross and has no EGR,Air tubes from
the headers,air pump, or A/C unit. I just started getting the
P0410 code a week or so ago. ( never came up before) Should
I just ignore it and clear the code? Thanks, and sorry for the
thread hijack.
Russ
Very helpful info! I am having the exact same problem on my
99 FRC. The car is for autocross and has no EGR,Air tubes from
the headers,air pump, or A/C unit. I just started getting the
P0410 code a week or so ago. ( never came up before) Should
I just ignore it and clear the code? Thanks, and sorry for the
thread hijack.
Russ
The only thing that is going to help you is to have that DTC turned off using EFI Live, HP tuners of some other tuning software.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Monks
Bill,
Very helpful info! I am having the exact same problem on my
99 FRC. The car is for autocross and has no EGR,Air tubes from
the headers,air pump, or A/C unit. I just started getting the
P0410 code a week or so ago. ( never came up before) Should
I just ignore it and clear the code? Thanks, and sorry for the
thread hijack.
Russ
Very helpful info! I am having the exact same problem on my
99 FRC. The car is for autocross and has no EGR,Air tubes from
the headers,air pump, or A/C unit. I just started getting the
P0410 code a week or so ago. ( never came up before) Should
I just ignore it and clear the code? Thanks, and sorry for the
thread hijack.
Russ
The only thing that is going to help you is to have that DTC turned off in the PCM using EFI Live, HP tuners of some other tuning software. Otherwise, it will always plague you!!
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
This is a response to Boosted Z06. My vette is a 98 and the relay was right in the relay box ahead of the battery. I checked both the pump relay and the pump solonoid relay. The pump solonoid relay was bad. Maybe you meant, that the solonoid was built into the pump on 2001 and earlier.