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If I remember correctly (Hey, I did this mod!) you only remove an 1 1/2 inch chunk to maybe 2 1/2 inch segment (How finely parsed is that.) of the rear top hood seal on the extreme driver's side for venting.
This is/was used by the C-5 racing team. This is a low pressure area and can assist for no more than the cost of careful clipping.
If I remember correctly (Hey, I did this mod!) you only remove an 1 1/2 inch chunk to maybe 2 1/2 inch segment (How finely parsed is that.) of the rear top hood seal on the extreme driver's side for venting.
This is/was used by the C-5 racing team. This is a low pressure area and can assist for no more than the cost of careful clipping.
I went digging but could find nada.
The cut I've made was to remove the tube portion by the ole shop scalpel, a straight edge blade. I used a piece of the now excised portion to seal the hollow just for pretty sakes.
At speed it is supposed to be very effective even though it's small.
Of course, the last time I ran a twenty four hour race where this would be important, was.....never. It does become effective at HWY speeds according to that ancient post. Some of the guys did measure under-hood temps and pronouncd it GOOD.
Best of all, like the mod on the wheel vent and reaming out the front end blanks, Free!
One source of cutting 1 1/2" from the rear hood seal at the drivers mirror came from Halltech's website a couple of years ago. They were cutting an opening in the radiator shroud for more cold air to the air filter. The instructions said you had to cut the hood seal because of the increase in amount of air going under the hood.
If you are talking about removing the hood seal at the base of the windshield..... I wouldn't. That is a high pressure area and will push air INTO the engine bay at speed. Plus water, dirt, etc.
Exactly. That is why the old L88 hood scoops were rear facing and why your passenger compartment air vents are in that area. If you look at the engine compartment on a NASCAR car you will see carb air inlets coming in from that area.
Bill
Exactly. That is why the old L88 hood scoops were rear facing and why your passenger compartment air vents are in that area. If you look at the engine compartment on a NASCAR car you will see carb air inlets coming in from that area.
Bill
Does the Z06 have any air flow modifications that C5 does not to compensate for the air inlet thru the fog shrouds ??
One source of cutting 1 1/2" from the rear hood seal at the drivers mirror came from Halltech's website a couple of years ago. They were cutting an opening in the radiator shroud for more cold air to the air filter. The instructions said you had to cut the hood seal because of the increase in amount of air going under the hood.
Cutting the rubber hood seal may not be a good idea. That is a low pressure air pocket and will pull air into the engine bay not help extract it. and two if you have a leak, the fluid could fly up the windshield.
Open up the fog light schouds and an extractor hood are the best options plus get rid of any beuty allumnim covers in th engine bay, those are heat hogs
From: Buy USA products! Check the label! Employ Americans
I had no seal at the stock hood and it will pull air out. I have had no problems with fluids. Now the extractor hood I now have has an even a bigger opening at the rear.
T-1 guys do it all the time.
I had no seal at the stock hood and it will pull air out. I have had no problems with fluids. Now the extractor hood I now have has an even a bigger opening at the rear.
T-1 guys do it all the time.
I had no seal at the stock hood and it will pull air out. I have had no problems with fluids. Now the extractor hood I now have has an even a bigger opening at the rear.
T-1 guys do it all the time.
I folded the driver side (8 inches or so) hood seal out of the way on my last track day. Not sure how much it helped cause I also was running the heater for the first time. But my coolant and oil were a little lower.
About 3 weeks ago I removed my driver side "block off panel", and tried to get a more scientific result of its effectiveness by actually measuring the temp with a Fluke temp meter. I taped the end of the thermocouple wire to the top side of the body side molding, and just inside the opening so it would be somewhat protected from the outside air rushing by. I was able to watch the meter while I was driving.
What I found was that on a 85F day, when going over 15-20 mph (and up to 65-70) the temp was around 95F. As soon as I would come to a stop, the temp would rise quite fast, and it maxed out at about 130F.
This was of course done on a fully warmed up car ( 20-30 minutes of driving).
Hope this helps answer if it does any good. I think it does.
You can also cut segments out of the hood seal weather stripping (above the firewall) to vent the engine bay.
This is a high-pressure area (from the inside if more air is being allowed to enter) and should relieve some of that hot air that tends to rise up against the hood.
One of the CF members who had worked for GM during the C5 developement (not Evil Twin) had recommended this mod, along with opening up the fog light panels, a few years ago.
This is a high-pressure area (from the inside if more air is being allowed to enter) and should relieve some of that hot air that tends to rise up against the hood.
One of the CF members who had worked for GM during the C5 developement (not Evil Twin) had recommended this mod, along with opening up the fog light panels, a few years ago.
Would someone who has done this mod please do an experiment for the forum, to prove/disprove whether this is an area which will force air in (higher pressure outside), or suck air out (higher pressure underhood)?
Simply tape a thread in the opening. Drive at moderate speed, 60-70 mph, and tellus whether the thread is sucked in, or out. Easy.
Would someone who has done this mod please do an experiment for the forum, to prove/disprove whether this is an area which will force air in (higher pressure outside), or suck air out (higher pressure underhood)?
Simply tape a thread in the opening. Drive at moderate speed, 60-70 mph, and tellus whether the thread is sucked in, or out. Easy.
Exactly what I was thinking. I will try that today and report back tonight. Just not sure what to use. Needs to be strong enough not to be sucked or blown apart and light enough to work. I think a thin strip of paper towel will work.
Would someone who has done this mod please do an experiment for the forum, to prove/disprove whether this is an area which will force air in (higher pressure outside), or suck air out (higher pressure underhood)?
Simply tape a thread in the opening. Drive at moderate speed, 60-70 mph, and tellus whether the thread is sucked in, or out. Easy.
Why don't several people try it.
I would do it right now except my car is waiting for a new tranny
Well, I did like I said. I taped three strips of paper towel at the center and both sides of the hood right on the very edge and removerd the foam rubber strip. As soon as I got up to about 30 mph they were being sucked in to underneath the hood. I tried this twice with both 6 inch and twelve-inch strips. Length made no difference (no jokes please). I did this all they up to about 70 mph. I know this is not a scientific method, but in my mind, it left no questions. There definitely is high pressure at the base of the windshield the sucks in air to the engine compartment. So if any of you want to argue or dispute what I did, go ahead, I don’t really care. But for me, seeing is believing.
From: Buy USA products! Check the label! Employ Americans
I'll try it with yarn on my hood at the next event. I can do the vents over the wheel wells which are vented. The front opening in the hood and the area by the windshield. Cheap wind tunnels we have. I have no inlets in the fog light area as I closed them to reduce drag. I can hit 160 at the track to see.
Last edited by John Shiels; Jul 6, 2006 at 05:08 PM.