Check Engine Light...P0410!!!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Missouri
Check Engine Light...P0410!!!
My check engine light keeps coming on because of code P0410. The code website says its the AIR System. I checked around the AIR pump and exhaust manifold and see no hoses off or wires disconnected. I also checked the fuse and it was good. I had a friend standing beside my car with the hood up and he said he could hear it kick on when I turned the key. Anyone have any ideas?
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: .... NJ
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05 thru '19
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: NJ
I had this problem last year on my 98 Vert... turned out to be a bad solenoid relay...
Check this thread...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1193732
Good luck and let us know how it works out
BBEngineer
Check this thread...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1193732
Good luck and let us know how it works out
BBEngineer
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Missouri
bbengineer,
i have a 2000 model and it shows a relay for #33 but #40 is empty. the only other thing i see related to the air pump is #50, which is a maxifuse. i'll have to check and see if i can find an ohm meter.
i have a 2000 model and it shows a relay for #33 but #40 is empty. the only other thing i see related to the air pump is #50, which is a maxifuse. i'll have to check and see if i can find an ohm meter.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: NJ
According to the service manual, Relay #33 is the AIR pump relay. I would double check the health of that relay.
Also, it appears that for 2000, there is an external AIR Injection Solenoid (It's internal to the AIR pump on the 98). Double check that solenoid as well.
I would make sure that you are getting voltage at the pump and at the solenoid when the car is first started and the AIR pump is enabled (if you have access to a Tech II, you can enable the pump there as well)
There are two check valves as vettenuts points out... but I thouht they threw different DTCs... but I could be wrong
BBEngineer
Also, it appears that for 2000, there is an external AIR Injection Solenoid (It's internal to the AIR pump on the 98). Double check that solenoid as well.
I would make sure that you are getting voltage at the pump and at the solenoid when the car is first started and the AIR pump is enabled (if you have access to a Tech II, you can enable the pump there as well)
There are two check valves as vettenuts points out... but I thouht they threw different DTCs... but I could be wrong
BBEngineer
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
They are part of the system, and depending on the code may or may not be part of the problem. Not sure I remember what this particular code is (whole system vice bank 1 or 2), but if whole system then both check valves would have to go down at once which is not very likely. They are a mechanical part though that is somewhat problematic, we had to change them on my daughter's Envoy that is only two years old due to moisture freezing them up.
Cruising
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
I had the same problem on my 2000. Tracked it down to another common problem.... leaky battery. There is a vacuum line that runs from the passenger side fender just in front of the door, under the battery tray, and to the AIR pump on the drivers side. A few days after replacing my bad battery and cleaning up the mess it made, my check engine light came on and threw the P0410 code. The vacuum line runs inside a wire loom which retained some acid and ate right through it. It’s fairly easy to find after removing the battery. All I had to do was cut out the bad section and splice in some new vacuum hose. Hope this helps.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Remove the hose from the Y on the stainless steel tube that the output of the AIR Pump is attached to and make sure that your getting air out of the pump. If your getting air flow, I would have to say it is a stuck shut check valve. There are TWO codes that can be set for stuck check valves. (Im at work and dont have access to my service manuals.) One code sets for bank 1 and the other sets for bank 2. I think there is one for both banks.
You can remove the check valve from the drivers side easily and make sure that it will pass air. If it is stuck shut, you can clean them or, just purchase a new one. i have cleaned mine with excellent results! I used Brake Parts Cleaner and air to blow out the crud and gum!
I evened cleaned the one behind the intake manifold without removing it. I just squirted some brake parts cleaner into the rubber hose and forced it through with compressed air.
BC
You can remove the check valve from the drivers side easily and make sure that it will pass air. If it is stuck shut, you can clean them or, just purchase a new one. i have cleaned mine with excellent results! I used Brake Parts Cleaner and air to blow out the crud and gum!
I evened cleaned the one behind the intake manifold without removing it. I just squirted some brake parts cleaner into the rubber hose and forced it through with compressed air.
BC
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 326
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From: Southeast Missouri
Great info. guys. I'll try all of them. I got ahold of an Ohm meter today but probably won't have time to do it until tomorrow or the next day. I have a ANOTHER problem too!!! Ever since I got my car it has set the usual 1225 and 1226 TCS Excessive Wheel Speed crap. I had new tires put on when I got the car so I know they were balanced and yet the lights still came on. I just put some new wheels on (same tires) and put dielectric grease in the connectors and low and behold, the lights still come on. What else can I do? I get sick of clearing the codes.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Well,,,,,,,,,,first off,,,diaelectric grease isnt the proper stuff to put in side the connectors. It works well on the weather tight seals to keep moisture out but not on the contacts! I recommend using some sort of electrical contact cleaner to remove all of the grease and then regrease the seals.
You most likely have a bad connection between the female and male pins. You need to do a pin pull test to figure that one out!
Bill
You most likely have a bad connection between the female and male pins. You need to do a pin pull test to figure that one out!
Bill
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
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From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
0410? i vote for the 'acid ate vaccuum line or bad relay
the 1225/6? clear them, these are L and R front codes, i don't like it when two wheels are involved, kind of feel like i'm being outnumbered
stock size tires? if yes, then i point to the harness
the 1225/6? clear them, these are L and R front codes, i don't like it when two wheels are involved, kind of feel like i'm being outnumbered
stock size tires? if yes, then i point to the harness
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Missouri
I guess I should've reread some of the posts about the 1225-26 codes before I put that on there. I could have sworn that what what to use but it's been quite some time since I had read about it. What is a pin pull test exactly?
Also, I believe I have stock Z06 size tires. 255/40/17 and 285/35/18 but I have a coupe. If it was tire size then wouldn't it be setting codes for the rear too?
Also, I believe I have stock Z06 size tires. 255/40/17 and 285/35/18 but I have a coupe. If it was tire size then wouldn't it be setting codes for the rear too?
Last edited by schtick; Jun 14, 2006 at 08:41 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Pin pull test:
Obtain a male pin that is the same size as the male pin that is in the plug that connects to the female connector in question. Put the male pin in the female pin. if the male pin fights in the female pin tight and pulls out tight, your all set! It it doesn't have any resistance going in or being pulled out, the female pin is BAD!
Here is a pic of an example of a good and bad connector:
The one on the left is NEW. The one on the right failed the test!!
Bill
Obtain a male pin that is the same size as the male pin that is in the plug that connects to the female connector in question. Put the male pin in the female pin. if the male pin fights in the female pin tight and pulls out tight, your all set!
It it doesn't have any resistance going in or being pulled out, the female pin is BAD!Here is a pic of an example of a good and bad connector:
The one on the left is NEW. The one on the right failed the test!!
Bill
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Missouri
The Ohm meter I had didn't work for the relay. My grandpa said I needed one for electronics. So I guess I'll just get a new relay and try that out. I'll see what I can find for the pin pull test to check out my traction control/ABS connectors. Thanks guys.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
What kind of OHM Meter do you have that isn't for electronics?????
If you own a C5, you better get something that will measure Volts, Ohms and Current. You should be able to pick up a basic one for $40-50 bucks. I would try to snag a digital meter.
Here is what I use:
You may be able to get a nice on on E-bay for less money!
BC
If you own a C5, you better get something that will measure Volts, Ohms and Current. You should be able to pick up a basic one for $40-50 bucks. I would try to snag a digital meter.
Here is what I use:
You may be able to get a nice on on E-bay for less money!
BC
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Missouri
Maybe he was talking about an electronic one. With the way that bbengineer described to check the relay in the link he gave, it seemed as though the Ohm meter we had wouldn't work. He said to apply power and a ground but the meter only used 2 probes to measure Ohms. I'll admit that I didn't really know what I was doing but my grandpa is borderline genius. 
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: NJ
The power and ground applied to the relay don't come from the meter... they are from an 12V source (IE: Your car battery or a benchtop supply)...
Any ohm meter would have worked... there is nothing special about a digital ohm meter... it works the same way as an analog one
BBEngineer
Any ohm meter would have worked... there is nothing special about a digital ohm meter... it works the same way as an analog one
BBEngineer