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When I originally set these heads up, a 8.10 push rod seemed to be close if not almost perfect however, when the valves are fully seated I can move the rocker arm from side to side on the fulcrum. (I checked this shortly after shut down and when cold with the same results. Therefore, there doesn't seem to be any preload on the lifter at all. The block is a forged 347 with a ET 215's using .040 Cometics, stock lifters and stock rockers. My question is should I step up to an 8.15 to see if i can achieve atleast some preload or is this ok as is.
Yes, I did use a checker but now after around 1000 miles, the geometry seems to have changed somewhat. Obviously, I am trying to stay away from tearing a head off just to put in the solid lifter to recheck it.
They will move side to side quite easily if the lifter is on the base circle of the cam. You need to find a rocker that is on the base circle and then measure the preload with a dial indicator. Side to side won't give you any measurement of preload. Is the valve train noisy?
Your cams base circle has a lot to do with your pushrod length. But if you checked it before and it was correct, then unless something has worn premature, it should still be the same. So if it's just one or two, then maybe check your rocker arms needle bearings. Also some lifters will bleed down pretty fast. So once it loses oil pressure after the motor has shut down, and its not on a lift, then the pre-load is very light.
Another note is if your valve train isn't rattleing, then it's proabably OK, and what you are seeing is just your lifters bleeding down rapidly when there is no oil pressure. Also little pre-load is bettter than too much pre-load, especially if you ever valve float the valves.
Thanks for the help guys. It just seems as though there is alot of valve train noise, the cam is rather large at around 238/250 with 608/612 lift on a 112+2 and I just chalked it up to cam size, use of stock rockers/lifter but when I pulled the valve covers, noticed the a bit of play on the rockers (which seem to be holding up just fine) I just assumed that perhaps this play is a major contributor to the noise or wost yet, could cause pre-mature wear and failure. I'll re-check using the good ole push rod checker and if the same, guess Im good to go.