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I believe the line is removable from the slave, held in with a set screw (I think). Not sure what access is like though, might be a mirror job to work on it.
Up above i think it mentions needing an entire new slave cylinder becuase line is integrated into it, and you have to buy a new unit in its entirety, prefilled w/ fluid and bled - ready to attach.
There is actually a roll pin that holds the hose in place, only question is whether you can get at it with it in the car. If you tap out the roll pin, the hose can be slid out and replaced. Do you have a service manual, it details the replacement (assuming it is out of the car)? Can you get under the car and look?
Right now i can't get under the car too look - but we looked REALLY hard to see where the cable connected into the bell housing when it was on the hoist and we couldn't see it... something would have to come out for sure...
Regardless, just replacing the braided line would probably be cheaper than the whole unit (even if all the labor is still included... maybe save $150...) but is the braided line sold seperately? I thought someone mentioned it was only sold attached to a new slave cylinder?
BTW, do you know where i can get a factory Service Manual, and how much they cost?
I think I have a old slave that I'll remove and send the hose to ya for the shipping if you decide to go the route.
You will have to remove the drive train to get to it.
Hmm... tempting... but now that i think about it... i think i'll just go with a whole new slave... i tried to save money on the LT header install cost and look where i ended up. I think i'm gonna take my lumps and do it right this time... hehe
Thanks very much though. I'll keep posting updates and such...
I know someone with a 97 Service Manual set that is willing to sell, PM me if interested. He had a 97 and recently bought an 04 thinking he could still use them, too many changes.
Here is the manual procedure. As you can see, it can be done. Only issue would be access. Remove tunnel plate for sure, not sure how well you can get at it then. Maybe a post to anyone doing a clutch right now, they could shoot a photo to see if it is feasible on the car.
I am not sure what you are gonna do but I had the clutch Dr's in Beaverton Oregon do my LS7 clutch. It was $520 including all the fluids being changed (tranny, diff clutch and brake). I am not sure I'd trust it to just any clutch dr's but this paticular shop has a very good gm certified tech.
Looking at my install photos i noticed i captured a pic of exactly what's leaking! LOL
The fluid is leaking from the steel crimp on the Salve side of the brass fitting... the hose isn't damaged... neither is the crimp... we think during the install we pushed it too far up, and that tugged it loose... notice the ground strap and oil sensors... all that had to be moved duing the headers placement... Pretty simple stuff... just a noob mistake...
Well crap. Dealer called me back... for just parts and labor they figure about $1,200 to remove and replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder only. That price isn't including the clutch...
They said 10 hours in labor, so it looks like the part is about $200 so almost $100 an hour for labor.
I called Brian's Automotive (reccomended from my friend) and first thing i asked them is if they've ever worked on C5s... He said sure, they've done plenty and they're pretty familiar with them. (They're an AC Delco place i guess) I told him what i needed to be done, and he described a little bit of what that involves (and it was right on par) so i figure he knows what he's talking about. $712 for parts and labor from them. I'm gonna call another place tommorrow, and get another quote then we'll see... (Corvette & High Performance next...)
Dan
I had a S06 clutch, flywheel, slave cyliinder done for under a $1000 here on east coast from Vette Doctors. Find a good Corvette tuner shop. They do it for far less than dealer.
Theres gotta be a way to fix that without ripping the entire drive train out of the car....
What kind of hose is it inside of the braid? You could pretty easily cut the hose and put a connector in it, then replace the easy to get to end of the system with a new part and cut that hose and put a connector in it. Couple it up and you are done. Yes you may have to insulate it from the headers, but that's probably the only other issue.
Some hoses are teflon inside and are more difficult to put a connector into, but I'd rather work that issue than remove the entire drive train.
Lots of mechanics today are R&R (remove and replace) specialists, but this is going to take a little bit of engineering. Plus, what do you have to loose, just a section of hose, it is trash anyway.
Find out what kind of hose you are dealing with and then get on the aeroquip site and see what kind of connectors you need....