Hi folks, during my Dynatech Supermaxx Header install everything seemed to go smoothly - took bout 6 hours, and all was well (we had a hoist and i was **** about details).

When installing the driver side header, it was indeed a tight squeeze from underneath - getting the header past the lines hoses and this weird ear shaped tab on the bell housing was a challenge.

There was also a braided line with a brass filter looking thing there too... we managed to install the header w/o moving or pushing on anything too much. However, when i started the car, the clutch pedal went soft, and there is a "Drip Drip Drip" from that braided line. Obviously its for the clutch... apon further inspection it appears the braided line is completely undamage, as is the brass filter looking thing, the leak comes out from the crimp fitting where the braided line enters the filter. Its possible we unintentionally pulled the braided line out of the brass fitting a little bit.

1) How do I fix this?
2) Should i have a shop fix it?
3) Whats it likely to cost if a shop fixes it? What about a dealer?
4) How long is that braided line?
5) Possible to just re-crimp the line somehow?
6) Anyone else go through this?

Thanks for the help - this is my Daily Driver so i need quick fixes ASAP!


Dan

 

Dan,
Sorry to hear that. I can't help you out either, bummer! My headers are shipping on Monday afternoon from Jet Hot.

Stay in touch and let me know about any other 'gotchas' you came across.

I was reading a thread about a few guys experiencing leaks with the LG's.

Joe

 

Which side of the "tin can" is leaking, the side towards the master cylinder (going up) or the side towards the clutch slave. The "tin can" is a coupling that can be disconnected. If it is the upper line you can replace it but they you will have to bleed the clutch, not a fun thing to do. If its the lower line, it goes to the slave and replacement is a much bigger issue.

A lot of guys have done the "drill mod", you may want to do a search on that to see how to disassemble the pieces and bleed out the system.

Good luck.

 

If it's the end going up to the master I have one that you can get for the cost of shipping.

 

It's the side towards the rear of the engine... the clutch slave i guess... i was really hoping not to hear "much bigger issue..." Like how big?

Yeah it appears to be the side closest to the bell housing... i've read crap like rear transaxle and suspension removal to get to things!!!


Thanks,
Dan

 

yep, you need to be able to get to the clutch to change out the slave. That means pulling the rear suspension/diff/transmission/torque tube just to get to it.

While you have it all torn apart, it would be a great time for a new clutch if it is in your near future.

 

Sorry, can't help with your situation, but for anyone else considering headers, I've installed several sets of Melrose long tubes and have had zero problems. Installation is very easy and clearance is great.

 

Well crap... looks like i'm gonna call up a bunch of places tomorrow... get it scheduled for a repair... it's still driveable i just gotta top off the fluid each time... (i won't be driving it either way, unless it's to the repair place...)

How much you think this is gonna cost? Same as a clutch job, $500 probably?


Thanks all
Dan

As a side note - this problem had nothing to do with Dynatechs headers, they're a top notch product and clearance wasn't really an issue. Once i realized how it needed to be positioned it slipped right it. It was my inexperience that caused me to press the header against the clutch line...

I can also feel the gain from these for sure, and the car sounds even better!

 

Alright - so my friend suggested JB Weld on the braided line connection to the crimp ("Tin Can") and just get a good layer all around on there... to possibly stop the leak until i get it to the shop (so it'll stop leaking on my headers, and so i'll be a little less frightened the clutch will suddenly stop working...)

Any thoughts on that idea? (As a temporary fix for the drive to the repair shop...)


Thanks,
Dan

 

NO jb weld, whether it's the slave or the master, find out which one, if not both and R2(remove and replace)

hot exhaust pipes and brake fluid from the clutch system are not a good combo

bottom line-replace the compromised component, spend the $$ and time now to save yourself and the car later

 

If you are worried about driving it, have it flat bedded, don't take any chances.

Also while you are at it, install the remote bleeder line, it'll be a lot easier if you ever need to bleed the clutch.

 

Thanks guys appreciate the advice... but does anyone have any idea how much this job will cost?

I've seen clutch jobs cost around $500, will this be similar? (Its the hose end that goes into the bell housing... so slave or whatever, i'll need a new one... (sorry i'm tired and can't think of what it's called...)

How long does that kind of job take?


Thanks,
Dan

 

Unfortunately the work involved in a C5 clutch pull is ALOT more than a normal car. Brace yourself for some high qoutes.

I'm actually in the middle of a clutch swap on mine and even with experience at it, its a long two day job by yourself on jackstands.

 

If you are going to take it all apart (or pay someone) I would throw in a new clutch at the same time unless the one you have is low miles. The earlier model year C5's had a very weak clutch to start with.

 

Just called TitusWill (gm dealer) getting a couple quotes; one on the parts and labor for RR of slave cylinder and the other include the extra step of RR w/ a new clutch.

We'll see how much vasaline i need...


Dan

 

 

Might as well do the Z06 clutch, although I am not sure the original is even available anymore.

 

Well crap. Dealer called me back... for just parts and labor they figure about $1,200 to remove and replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder only. That price isn't including the clutch...

They said 10 hours in labor, so it looks like the part is about $200 so almost $100 an hour for labor.

I called Brian's Automotive (reccomended from my friend) and first thing i asked them is if they've ever worked on C5s... He said sure, they've done plenty and they're pretty familiar with them. (They're an AC Delco place i guess) I told him what i needed to be done, and he described a little bit of what that involves (and it was right on par) so i figure he knows what he's talking about. $712 for parts and labor from them. I'm gonna call another place tommorrow, and get another quote then we'll see... (Corvette & High Performance next...)



Dan

 

Damn there has to be a less expensive way to fix it. Wish I knew for you. I hate it when crap like this happens. Maybe someone close can help you out with the install?

 

I believe the line is removable from the slave, held in with a set screw (I think). Not sure what access is like though, might be a mirror job to work on it.