Differential Fluid, which do you use?
I put the D4 ATF in the transmission. It had Royal Purple in it and used to be difficult to get into 1st at a stop light but with the Red-Line this problem has virtually gone away! The problem is now it wants to grind during the 1-2 shift. Is it possible that these synthetics are just too slippery? I talked with Red Line agian and they said that I might try the MTL instead of the D4-ATF. They said that they recommed using that for racing and high load applications. Any thoughts? This is driving me crazy! This is my first Corvette and I love the car but I have never experienced such shifting issues in any car and I have several (6) high performance sports cars including Porsches, Mazdas and a Pantera. Your advise would be appreciated!
Thanks!
Tom
My '03 Z06 used to grind between 4th and 5th gear shifts, plus it was difficult to get it into 5th. Under warranty, the dealer put in GM Synchromesh; this did not fix the problem. Based on my past cars (3 Mazda RX-7's), I used Mobil1 gear lube. So, I had the Synchromesh drained and put in Mobil1 ATF. I have had not one grinding noise since the change to Mobil1. In the past, I have tried various gear oils (not ATF) for my transmissions---I have found that Mobil1 provides me with the smoothest shifts among all of the brands that I have tried (AMSOIL, Castrol, and Redline).
DTE
DTE, have you tested Red Line "Heavy Shockproof" lube yet? Or the other two lighter Shockproof lubes? Do you think they might be an improvement over the Red Line 80W140 as Red Line suggests in their Tech article?
Thanks, Curt
Last edited by curtbriggs; Aug 20, 2006 at 02:55 PM.
Put the full 4 oz additive in first
Why?
I believe in deep pockets... Exxon Mobil has much deeper pockets than Amsoil or Royal Purple.
The can't afford to market an inferior product.
Your "testing" is better than GM's?
Why wouldn't GM recommend 75w/140 like you do, if you've found that: "the differentials to run quieter, a bit cooler and the lubricant quality to remain more constant in quality over a greater amount of miles/time with the use of 75w/140."

The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
The 6MN is 4.1 qts. The differential is 1.6 qts. plus what ever 4 oz (the friction modifer) is.

This is your car right now, yes?
Oh -- here's a picture of mine. I use the standard GM recommended diff oil -- it gets me where I'm going, and looks good along the way:
Last edited by EHS; Aug 21, 2006 at 12:36 PM. Reason: added photo

This is your car right now, yes?
Oh -- here's a picture of mine. I use the standard GM recommended diff oil -- it gets me where I'm going, and looks good along the way:

I see you trying to make more friends...EG's pic just shows me that he is working on it.. Does not mean the Tranny Failed..
Some peeps like to mod their cars and drive em harder than GM planned for..
And YES there actually are people who can redesign a part better than the Original GM part.. Why? Because the re-engineered part had a different purpose in mind than GM originally intended..not becuse they are SMARTER than GM..
Not everything GM designs is for OUR benefit.. Take the output shaft on the differential.. GM is not stupid... They Know it breaks under a hard load. They left the Dog Bone design in it for a reason...So it will continue to break! and they hope it breaks AFTER the warranty.
No engineer is that stupid to see a failure that has a cheap and easy fix and does not implement it.. unless there is an alterior motive..Your Pocket book...

All these "Little" upgrades can be offered by GM for nothing more than a few $100 bucks to the bottom line.. Bet there is not one Vette Owner who'd balk at the price increase.. But GM won't anything that increases the life of the parts steals from their Dealers Service Bottom line.. Keep that in perspective.. Yes... it is a big conspiracy..
Last edited by chuckster; Aug 21, 2006 at 01:14 PM.
I see you trying to make more friends...EG's pic just shows me that he is working on it.. Does not mean the Tranny Failed..
Some peeps like to mod their cars and drive em harder than GM planned for..
And YES there actually are people who can redesign a part better than the Original GM part.. Why? Because the re-engineered part had a different purpose in mind than GM originally intended..not becuse they are SMARTER than GM..
Not everything GM designs is for OUR benefit.. Take the output shaft on the differential.. GM is not stupid... They Know it breaks under a hard load. They left the Dog Bone design in it for a reason...So it will continue to break! and they hope it breaks AFTER the warranty.
No engineer is that stupid to see a failure that has a cheap and easy fix and does not implement it.. unless there is an alterior motive..Your Pocket book...

The gentleman who started this thread has a 2003 coupe, which may still be under warranty, base or maybe even extended GMPP.
So, why would he want to use a fluid that would void that warranty, or why would anyone recommend something other than what fits his particular application (as opposed to yours).
The problem with quite a few of the "good advice" posts is that people don't tailor their advice to the question asked, but what they would like to have heard.
England Green has had plenty of problems with his car (www.grond.tv), and the shape that it's in shows that radical advice may not always be the best advice.
If this thread had been about someone looking for diff fluids for a highly modified, highly stressed, non-warrantied car, dragster, then yes, use all the Marvel Mystery Oil you want.
But, it's a stock car, with a warranty, and should be treated as such.
Cheers! See you again soon, I'm sure.
The gentleman who started this thread has a 2003 coupe, which may still be under warranty, base or maybe even extended GMPP.
So, why would he want to use a fluid that would void that warranty, or why would anyone recommend something other than what fits his particular application (as opposed to yours).
The problem with quite a few of the "good advice" posts is that people don't tailor their advice to the question asked, but what they would like to have heard.
England Green has had plenty of problems with his car (www.grond.tv), and the shape that it's in shows that radical advice may not always be the best advice.
If this thread had been about someone looking for diff fluids for a highly modified, highly stressed, non-warrantied car, dragster, then yes, use all the Marvel Mystery Oil you want.
But, it's a stock car, with a warranty, and should be treated as such.
Cheers! See you again soon, I'm sure.

PM's???? How can you see my PM's?

You are making a gross assumption that putting a Different Fluid in the car is going to cause a catostrophic failure.. Remember GM is not GOD.
They don't always recommend things for the same reasons the user needs.
And now to on to the Original Poster Question..
Differential Fluid, which do you use?
If he was interested in the GM Fluid I am sure he would not have bothered posting in the C5 Tech. That being said he asked for clarification to understand the differences. Which is exactly what he got. Nobody is BASHING the GM recommendation.. They are simply saying there is better..
Again.. GM most likely uses theirs to maintain the Fuel Economy. I highly doubt it's for longevity.
If that were the case Race Engines would use 5w10.. Not 50W...Just pointing out that GM does NOT have a perfect track record with engineering.. SO why do people always bring up the fact that GM has more engineers and more money to spend on Research and development.. So TRUST THEM...
I guess nobody else could design a better column lock securty system. Or Fuel Sending Unit. Maybe they needed to spend a few more dollars on those...How about those C6 Z06 Differentials Breaking? And not even at the track... Let's all trust GM's Fine Engineering and Testing...
Guess what... I bet anyone who installs a hardened output shaft just violated their warranty... Even though they just made it better..
The gentleman who started this thread has a 2003 coupe, which may still be under warranty, base or maybe even extended GMPP.
So, why would he want to use a fluid that would void that warranty, or why would anyone recommend something other than what fits his particular application (as opposed to yours).
The problem with quite a few of the "good advice" posts is that people don't tailor their advice to the question asked, but what they would like to have heard.
England Green has had plenty of problems with his car (www.grond.tv), and the shape that it's in shows that radical advice may not always be the best advice.
If this thread had been about someone looking for diff fluids for a highly modified, highly stressed, non-warrantied car, dragster, then yes, use all the Marvel Mystery Oil you want.
But, it's a stock car, with a warranty, and should be treated as such.
Cheers! See you again soon, I'm sure.

1> I have not had any problems with my car that I did not personally cause.
2> My car is (or rather was) at ~600rwhp. As a FYI - stock is 280-300rwhp
3> I hate when stock owners poke their noses into that which they have no clue.
4> I have never had a differential failure. No gear whine, no noise, nothing. Worked perfectly at my power level. And worked perfectly under all conditions and loads.
5> I have no need to PM anyone. Anyone can see a fool with their own two eyes - no need to draw attention to them.
I've researched this to death, and there are so many differrent opinions, it's very confusing! Are you using the GM fluid with the full 4oz of GM additive? Redline or Amsoil without additive? Mobil 1 with additive? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
7>
becomes you.... You did such a good job in the NorthEast section that I see you decided to branch out...
Last edited by EG@EnglandGreen; Aug 21, 2006 at 07:16 PM.


This is your car right now, yes?
Oh -- here's a picture of mine. I use the standard GM recommended diff oil -- it gets me where I'm going, and looks good along the way:

Fact of the matter is, there's much better stuff out there than what GM puts in a bottle.
Also, I have a feeling DT puts a shorter warranty on their differential for TWO primary reasons: 1) their pocket books are NOT as deep as GM (nor is their profit margin on what they sell) and 2) their products are sold to people who will be abusing to a much higher degree, on average, than stock GM parts.
Actually, I think it's the opposite of your statement. Considering that GM. Chyrslyer, Porsche, etc. use Mobil1 as both the factory fill and the recommended oil, as well as the fact that Mobil1 meets/exceeds the manufacturer's specs, neither ExxonMobil or the car manufacturers are likely to use an inferior product that would result in warranty claims and law suits. I am sure that the smaller oil companies could have you tied up in court for several years in order that you can prove that it was their product that caused an engine failure. The burden of proof would be on you and would be very difficult to prove; the smaller oil companies do not have money to give out to every complaintant. Amsoil and RP do not have a more vested interest in making a trouble free product...that is your opionion, not based on fact. Also, ExxonMobil makes their own product and has continually improved their oils and gasoline products, just as ChevronTexaco has made continous improvements (Techroline to Techron; regular coolant to Dex-Cool). When BMW first started having carbon buildup issues they could not figure out what the problem was. Mercedes, on the other hand, did not have carbon build up issues. To make it short, when Mercedes test drove their cars, they would fill up at the Exxon station near the factory...Exxon had an effective additive package, way before its time.
The lesson here is that once a LSD unit starts to slip you get a lot of wear, and things go south in a hurry. I like to hear a bit of graunching or complaining from the rear end in slow tight corneres, that means to me that it is still tight...
If you are a street only driver and just want to cruise or polish, then put anything in there that keeps it quiet. If you are serious about performance and want it to last you don't want a lot of lubrication between the clutches, you want it to grip and stay tight. For that reason I've stayed away from the "super lubes" and kept the factory fill in the diff. I'm finishing my second season of serious (two drivers) of autocrossing with my Z and the diff is still tight....


















