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Differential Fluid, which do you use?

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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 07:58 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Tact
I used Amsoil and no additive needed. No problems.
Me too !!!
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 09:25 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Roadking
Check out this web site. Contact Subdriver on the forum to order.

http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/...ns/G2039PB.htm
Perfect. Thanks for the link.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by DynoTech Engineering
We've been asked to chime in here to set things straight regarding our differentials and what lubricants to use with them. Please copy-paste-print off or what-ever to keep as a data reference, as we've covered this very same topic with similar answers on this board about 4-5 times in the past now.

Our Stage 2-5 differentials utilize a heavy duty clutch pack design w/ heavy duty clutch pack pre-load springs that are exclusive to our engineering design. Therefore, in order for our differentials to operate properly in a wide variety of performance conditions/applications, we require the use of Redline brand 75w/140 fully synthetic differential lubricant which has approx. 4% of Redline brand fully synthetic limited slip additive already blended in at the Redline Lubricants factory. We add an additional ounce of Redline fully synthetic limited slip additive to each bottle here at DTE for a total blend of 13%, that supports our heavy duty clutch pack design. We carry this blend here..

DO *NOT* use GM L.S.A. additive in *ANY* of our 75w/140 lubricants at all, in any capacity what-so-ever. That was fine with the old 75w/90 we used to use, but *NOT* for the new 75w/140 blend. If you choose to do this, we can assure you with 100% certainty that you *WILL* have clutch pack problems of some sort.....

If you have a stock differential w/ stock clutch packs or our Stage 1 model differential, we recommend the use of the standard 4% blend of Redline brand 75w/140 lubricant and pour in stright from the bottle. We also carry this blend here..


Thanks folks.


Best Regards,
DTE
Would you care to make a recommendation for a stock Z06 rear gears ???????

Do you feel that stock GM fluid is insufficient for heavy duty use ???

Thanks,


DH
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 06:04 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Would you care to make a recommendation for a stock Z06 rear gears ???????

Do you feel that stock GM fluid is insufficient for heavy duty use ???

Thanks,


DH
We use Redline 75w/140 straight out of the bottle in stock differentials around here and you don't really want to know what we think about that over-priced, stinky snot GM calls differential lubricant... We've tested that lube in the past for HP use w/ added power, racing applications, etc. and it failed miserably in every instance for the areas of use that these HP differentials typically live in.

We still see folks insist on using it for HP applications and we just cringe when we see that, knowing that the differential is screaming for dear life back there.... It might be fine for a 100% stone-stocker car, but that's about it and we wouldn't suggest that lube for *anything* other than grocery-getting type driving...ever.

To each his own though.


DTE
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 08:04 PM
  #45  
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i had 90,000 on my vette when i bought it...and no record of fluid change...is it okay to change differential fluid w/that many miles? i heard ..dont change trans fluid ..but wasnt sure about differential fluid
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 08:23 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by DynoTech Engineering
We use Redline 75w/140 straight out of the bottle in stock differentials around here and you don't really want to know what we think about that over-priced, stinky snot GM calls differential lubricant... We've tested that lube in the past for HP use w/ added power, racing applications, etc. and it failed miserably in every instance for the areas of use that these HP differentials typically live in.

We still see folks insist on using it for HP applications and we just cringe when we see that, knowing that the differential is screaming for dear life back there.... It might be fine for a 100% stone-stocker car, but that's about it and we wouldn't suggest that lube for *anything* other than grocery-getting type driving...ever.

To each his own though.


DTE
Great... I have fresh Stinky Smelly Stuff in there right now as they just redid my left side plate seal for the second time. Not sure if it was coincidental but shorty after draining the GM SSS and replacing with Mobil 1 gear oil in started leaking.

I do track my car and will follow your advise...


DH
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 12:16 AM
  #47  
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Valvoline at the local Jiffy Lube.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 02:43 PM
  #48  
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redline
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 03:50 PM
  #49  
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The correct answer to the question is What DynoTech Engineering says. They do this for a living and have much more data and experience than most do. Redline 75 -140 it will be.

Last edited by OhioDave; Aug 19, 2006 at 08:12 AM.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 04:07 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by dcblackc5
The correct answer to the question is What DynoTech Engineering says. They do this for a living and have much more data and experience we do. Redline 75 -140 it will be.
75-140W? Everything I've read has been to use the 75-90w.
For strictly (sometimes spirited) street driving, do I need the 75-140?
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 04:17 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Bills03Coupe
75-140W? Everything I've read has been to use the 75-90w.
For strictly (sometimes spirited) street driving, do I need the 75-140?
I agree that all I have read before is 75w 90, until they stated they use the 75w 140 in all stock differentials. Thats what I based my comment on.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 04:49 PM
  #52  
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Oversimpplified~
We used to use the 75w/90 in our HP differentials, as well as in stock differentials also, but it just wouldn't last for the long term in high performance applications. However, through testing, we found that the higher viscosity 75w/140 was quite a bit more tolerant to thermal break down and remained a bit thicker in high performance applications that generated a lot of driveline heat- from internal friction from the differential itself, heat transfer from the transmission and from radiant heat from the two super-heated exhaust pipes that run right next to either side of the differential.

We've found the differentials to run quieter, a bit cooler and the lubricant quality to remain more constant in quality over a greater amount of miles/time with the use of 75w/140. That's why we switched.

Hope that helps some and there are more threads on this subject around here that we go into more depth with this topic also.


DTE

Last edited by DTE Powertrain; Aug 18, 2006 at 04:52 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 10:36 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by DynoTech Engineering
Oversimpplified~
We used to use the 75w/90 in our HP differentials, as well as in stock differentials also, but it just wouldn't last for the long term in high performance applications. However, through testing, we found that the higher viscosity 75w/140 was quite a bit more tolerant to thermal break down and remained a bit thicker in high performance applications that generated a lot of driveline heat- from internal friction from the differential itself, heat transfer from the transmission and from radiant heat from the two super-heated exhaust pipes that run right next to either side of the differential.

We've found the differentials to run quieter, a bit cooler and the lubricant quality to remain more constant in quality over a greater amount of miles/time with the use of 75w/140. That's why we switched.

Hope that helps some and there are more threads on this subject around here that we go into more depth with this topic also.


DTE
By "High performance" Applications, I assume you mean Auto cross or drag racing, which would generate considerbly more heat and stress. Do you still recommend the 75-140W even for, as stated before, occasional "spirited" street driving?
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 12:56 AM
  #54  
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I spoke with Dave at Red-Line. He recommended the 75W-90 for the Differential. It has the friction Modifier package in it. No issues at all.

I put the D4 ATF in the transmission. It had Royal Purple in it and used to be difficult to get into 1st at a stop light but with the Red-Line this problem has virtually gone away! The problem is now it wants to grind during the 1-2 shift. Is it possible that these synthetics are just too slippery? I talked with Red Line agian and they said that I might try the MTL instead of the D4-ATF. They said that they recommed using that for racing and high load applications. Any thoughts? This is driving me crazy! This is my first Corvette and I love the car but I have never experienced such shifting issues in any car and I have several (6) high performance sports cars including Porsches, Mazdas and a Pantera. Your advise would be appreciated!

Thanks!

Tom
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 06:29 AM
  #55  
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Tom --

Great advice here on the foum, but why not just use what the manufacturer recommends?

GM is willing to stand behind what they recommend by warranting the car, and will also void a warranty if they find something in the car that they do not recommend.

Now, that's commitment.

Go with the baseline first, then start to add all the colored stuff -- red, purple, or soil.

I've had my 2000 MN6 for six years and almost 75,000 miles. No problems on the differential, transmission, engine, or the clutch. Always used the cheapest that met GM specs.

I saved money, and the car loves it.

Last edited by EHS; Aug 19, 2006 at 06:32 AM.
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 07:56 AM
  #56  
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Goodness Gracious!!! To each ones own opinion on the diff fluid (I run the GM fluid w/additive) but I am aghast that nobody has mentioned that when you change the diff fluid, to PROPERLY SET THE FLUID LEVEL SO IT DOESN'T LEAK you need to road test the car and get the diff to normal operating temp and then open the fill plug and drain out what you might have overfilled. Yes - per C4C5 specialist from "corvettemechanic" and also from GM techs I've met you MUST set the diff fluid at operating temperature. If it's overfilled it spits out the vent. Trust me, I changed my left axle seal thinking that was the problem and still didn't set the diff fluid level properly and my leak came right back!

There. I speak the truth!
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 08:15 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by DynoTech Engineering
Oversimpplified~
We used to use the 75w/90 in our HP differentials, as well as in stock differentials also, but it just wouldn't last for the long term in high performance applications. However, through testing, we found that the higher viscosity 75w/140 was quite a bit more tolerant to thermal break down and remained a bit thicker in high performance applications that generated a lot of driveline heat- from internal friction from the differential itself, heat transfer from the transmission and from radiant heat from the two super-heated exhaust pipes that run right next to either side of the differential.

We've found the differentials to run quieter, a bit cooler and the lubricant quality to remain more constant in quality over a greater amount of miles/time with the use of 75w/140. That's why we switched.

Hope that helps some and there are more threads on this subject around here that we go into more depth with this topic also.


DTE
thanks for answering all the questions

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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 09:15 AM
  #58  
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Here's a thought:

GM: 3 years/36,000 miles warranty.

DynoTech Engineering: 2 year/24,000 miles warranty.
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by EHS
Here's a thought:

GM: 3 years/36,000 miles warranty.

DynoTech Engineering: 2 year/24,000 miles warranty.

Not even worth addressing.....


DTE
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DynoTech Engineering

Not even worth addressing.....

DTE
Why?

Your "testing" is better than GM's?

Why wouldn't GM recommend 75w/140 like you do, if you've found that: "the differentials to run quieter, a bit cooler and the lubricant quality to remain more constant in quality over a greater amount of miles/time with the use of 75w/140."
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