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Spec Clutches equal JUNK!

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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 08:28 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Phil97SVT
And people wonder why I am so happy with my $350 ram clutches. What kind of setup are you running to make 800ft/lbs of torque?
Tell me more about your RAM clutch! I'm getting so sick of all of this clutch discussion. NOTHING seems to be "PERFECT".....the Textrailia is supposedly not good for daily driving, the Spec's blow up, the LS7's glaze and people get the sticky pedal, the LS6's aren't up to snuff, the LUK's aren't good, the CARTEK's are good but are well over $1000, the ebay textrailia are supposedly good but quality control is an issue, McLeod have quality issues, etc.

Geesus, can't someone just make a 500hp/tq clutch that DOESN'T have a problem and can be driven normally and still hold the power for less than $500? If this was a camaro I wouldn't care as bad since I could do the clutch myself if it sucked....but I'm having this done professionally by CT Corvettes and I don't want to have to pay for it twice!!!
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by FixedRoof
SPEC = GARBAGE!

Simple as that. Had a 3, it took a crap. One of my best friends had a 3+ and it took a crap. Bad QC and balance issues as well..
I totally agree with you, it just makes no sense to me. While driving home yesterday i said screw it i wanted try again on the street. So i launched the car, shifted 2nd and 3rd and for some damn reason the clutch grabbed hard every time. I do not understand this at all. Maybe since im getting better traction at the track the clutch is the weak point and spins and on the street the tires are the weak point and thhey decide to spin. I dotn know anymore
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 10:19 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by gpm30236
I have a spec 3+ on my car , 463 rwhp 421 rwtq, had it all day at VIR today, over a hundred high stress miles on it not a bit of slip How did you see sparks from a sealed bell housing ?
I said before i didnt see the sparks the track officials did, on the bell housing inspection plate there are 2 vents one on each side that would allow sparks to be seen from beneath the car, which in my case it did happen.
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 10:51 AM
  #24  
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The 3+ uses ceramic and copper friction plates right? Usually sparks are from ferrous metal (iron)....I dont' think copper will spark but I guess its possible. Are you sure this isn't a botched install?
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 10:52 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Billdog350
Tell me more about your RAM clutch!
I'll tell you that I ate one up in ~1000 miles. All the disk material had been shaved off but not before it ate a nice groove into the pressure plate. I got two different pressure plates where all six holes would not line up to the flywheel. The machinist who balanced it needed to enlarge one or more of the holes to get it to bolt up.

Went with a C5 Z06 clutch after that. Been working OK except for the pedal to the floor but regular clutch fluid changes resolve that. Adding the long tubes may have pushed it past it's limit though.

Bummer to hear that about the SPEC 3+. I was beginning to lean towards it after some good press.
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 11:02 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by AMERICAN_HP
First off, it could be a few things. NOT just the fact that the clutch was bad. If there was sparks, then is doesnt sound like it was installed right.
Its called RACING...


Hey Jeff,
Several clutches (including yours) will spark when launched hard through the two holes on the bottom of the bell housing. I guess due to the types of materials used. I have seen that several times before on clutches that worked great for a long time afterwards. (although Spec has not worked for us either)
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 11:02 AM
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I still haven't heard enough to convince me that the Spec III+ is not the best bang for your buck out there in the ~500rwhp/tq range. Higher than that and you need Cartek or Textrailia....but 500hp/tq or lower sounds like the Spec III+ (current issue aside) is one of the top contenders. EVERYONE here has had issues with tons of different brands...I know personally a friend who had serious mcleod twin disk issues, including the disks ruining his tranny input shaft! The cartek and textrailia are supposedly not good daily driver clutches.....

The topic starter says he has a LS7 motor...so we know he has at least 500 hp at the crank....plus GOBS of torque...my 347 won't even be close.
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 11:43 AM
  #28  
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I'm with Phil on the RAM clutches... I have installed half a dozen with no problems. I run a RAM 980 in my 421 LS2 road race car (500rwhp) and I pound on it session after session with no problems.
Shirl Dickey
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 01:49 PM
  #29  
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Just got off the phone from a represenative from spec. I told him what happened exactly he told me "that he has seen this before." He told me that while trying to do a brake standing burnout , that the brakes are actualy putting so much load on the clutch that it causes it to get so hot that it slips. I have never heard of a clutch doing this however he said it was because of the ceramic metallic disk that it is made out of. The 3+ does not like excessive heat or it cannot with stand it. He told me to either do a rolling burnout up to the tree, or to invest in a line lock. I was promised that this should get rid of my problems. We'll see friday im not giong to order a line lock yet ill try the rolling the burn out and see what happens. Does this make sense to any of you?
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 02:07 PM
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Makes total sense. My stock clutch would NOT withstand any attempt at a brake torque (like my 1994 Z28 would). A rolling burnout is your best bet on ANY C5 since the rear brakes are MUCH more aggressive than other rwd muscle cars. Friends and I have tried unsuccessfully to do brake torques on our C5's and smoked clutches every time. One friend did it this past weekend at Lebanon Valley track with his 413rwhp C5. Line lock it or just do a rolling burnout...I wonder how many smoked or burnt clutches are a result of people trying to do brake torques like you and I? I'm guessing 70% or more.
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 02:14 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Billdog350
Makes total sense. My stock clutch would NOT withstand any attempt at a brake torque (like my 1994 Z28 would). A rolling burnout is your best bet on ANY C5 since the rear brakes are MUCH more aggressive than other rwd muscle cars. Friends and I have tried unsuccessfully to do brake torques on our C5's and smoked clutches every time. One friend did it this past weekend at Lebanon Valley track with his 413rwhp C5. Line lock it or just do a rolling burnout...I wonder how many smoked or burnt clutches are a result of people trying to do brake torques like you and I? I'm guessing 70% or more.
Thank god this relieves me a little bit,.. i guess ill find out come friday depending on the weather
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 03:19 PM
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I have several hard launching passes on my Spec V with no problems at all. I destroyed a Spec 3+ in a few thousand miles and about 20+ passes at the track, same with the RPS clutch they both lasted about the same amount of time.
I would not buy anything from Spec other than their Stage 5 clutch. Its noisy, but it does hold the power.

Last edited by mkern1; Oct 16, 2006 at 03:22 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 03:41 PM
  #33  
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I have had a spec 3 for well over 40K miles with never a problem and well over 500rwtq. The key to any clutch regardless of brand is.....................INSTALLATION. I have seen lots of botched clutch jobs that the clutch gets blamed for when in fact it's the installation that is the problem.
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 03:45 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by gorillavet
I have had a spec 3 for well over 40K miles with never a problem and well over 500rwtq. The key to any clutch regardless of brand is.....................INSTALLATION. I have seen lots of botched clutch jobs that the clutch gets blamed for when in fact it's the installation that is the problem.
I installed the clutch myself,... i have done this plenty of times and iknow that it was installed correctly.
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 04:34 PM
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Ive done many clutchs too. So what exactly is the bad install? Cant really figure it out, cause if you dont have everything lined up it wont go in. Just curious, so I'll triple check myself on the next install. Thanks
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by happa
Ive done many clutchs too. So what exactly is the bad install? Cant really figure it out, cause if you dont have everything lined up it wont go in. Just curious, so I'll triple check myself on the next install. Thanks
I agree. The first two clutches I put in I used new bearings, slave cylinders, flywheels, and had each unit matched balanced and they still failed. I guess there must be something I'm missing.
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Darkness
Please oh please tell me what clutch I can use for my 408 with 500rwtq.
Either Ram with the 6 or 9 series would work.
Phil
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 05:14 PM
  #38  
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Spec= problems

Randy
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 07:52 PM
  #39  
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ill through in my 2 cents. i dont even have close the power you guys have but i have the spec 3 and it doesnt slip at all. it does however chatter sometimes shaking the whole car when im slipping it from a light or in a parking lot which blows. pat
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil97SVT
Either Ram with the 6 or 9 series would work.
Phil
Would they be able to handle the occasional shot of nitrous? Say 250?
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