Rod Bolt Swap
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 837
Likes: 2
From: Derry NH
Rod Bolt Swap
My newly discovered need for a new pilot bearing has me looking for other things to do. If I am going to rip half of my car apart for an $8 bearing, I need to really justify the labor. My thoughts have drifted towards rod bolts. I have a 99, and an increased redline of 6600. I have discovered that I enjoy kissing 6550 a lot more than I thought I ever would. It is actually an addiction now. I think some rod bolts would make me feel a little more confident in my new redline.
Now for the questions. I read long ago about guys dropping the pan, changing the bolts (and nothing else) and then reinstalling the pan. Has anyone encountered any problems? Are there any risk to bearing damage??? Are the bolts swapped one at a time, or remove both, inpect bearing, install both new.. etc...
Now for the questions. I read long ago about guys dropping the pan, changing the bolts (and nothing else) and then reinstalling the pan. Has anyone encountered any problems? Are there any risk to bearing damage??? Are the bolts swapped one at a time, or remove both, inpect bearing, install both new.. etc...
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,975
Likes: 9
From: "Philly" Pennsylvania
Perhaps a more knowledgable member can address this point:
I read somewhere that once you seperate the bearing cap from the rod a new bearing is required; something about new torque loads affecting the bearings. I don't know if this is true or optional?
Good luck on the job, I was considering the same till I read about the new bearing requirement so I'll be watching to see what the members more experience in this specific area think.
I read somewhere that once you seperate the bearing cap from the rod a new bearing is required; something about new torque loads affecting the bearings. I don't know if this is true or optional?
Good luck on the job, I was considering the same till I read about the new bearing requirement so I'll be watching to see what the members more experience in this specific area think.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,561
Likes: 448
From: Atlanta metro Ga.
Surf on over to LS1tech, you'll see a hundred posts on this subject.
Basically, the "hot setup" is to go with Katech bolts (claimed to not distort the big end rod bearing clearances), and folks are doing them one at a time, so as to not disturb the position of the cracked bearing cap in relation to the rod body.
The one at a time thing does bother me, but to do it the right way would probably require greater access to the motor than you'll have with just removing the pan.
I would go for it; it's a good upgrade for our pre-2001 motors.
Basically, the "hot setup" is to go with Katech bolts (claimed to not distort the big end rod bearing clearances), and folks are doing them one at a time, so as to not disturb the position of the cracked bearing cap in relation to the rod body.
The one at a time thing does bother me, but to do it the right way would probably require greater access to the motor than you'll have with just removing the pan.
I would go for it; it's a good upgrade for our pre-2001 motors.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
I've done it. Over 5k miles on the motor since, many trips to 6900rpm's, no problems, no oil pressure change. I used the Arp Pro's and used thier procedure. The Katechs are the ones to go with. You'll have to figure out a way to keep the motor suspended with the cradle removed and the pan off. You will also want to be able to rotate the crank so you can get at all the bolts.
Make sure to check to see if you have ferrules in the rod. They will need to be removed. There was a point, late 1999 to early 2000 that ferrules were added and the bolts changed.
Make sure to check to see if you have ferrules in the rod. They will need to be removed. There was a point, late 1999 to early 2000 that ferrules were added and the bolts changed.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,561
Likes: 448
From: Atlanta metro Ga.
Almost.. It's 2001 and up.. Some folks say GM made the change in late 2000, but would you really want to gamble on your car having the updated part?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
That's when the ferrules were added. They needed them to support the new bolts. As I understand it, the late 2000 Vettes got them first, then the F-Bodies got them in 2001. Also, all the LS6's got them. I bet it was more of a tooling decision than anything else. The LS6's were coming out, they wanted stronger bolts for those motors to handle the higher peak loads. Why have 2 seperate inventories and manufacturing methods? They also changed the LS1 blocks in late 2000-early 2001, the intake manifolds, the MAF, the PCM, lots of changes.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 837
Likes: 2
From: Derry NH
OK. I visited Katech's website and believe it or not the procedure they call for is direct remove and replace. They are pricey at $153 (almost double the price of ARP), but I think I will order me a set anyway.
While thinking of a plan of attack and a list of things to do I have come up with this:
1. Drop drivetrain. Ouch. Need to get to back of the motor.
2. Service Tranny. Second gear hasn't been smooth since I bought the car and a bad blocker ring has been diagnosed.
3. Rod bolts. The tranny is already out so screw it, I am going to lift the motor, turn it over and replace the bolts. Sucks, yes, but will aid in getting to the pilot bearing also since the LS7 clutch is thicker and tougher to deal with
4. Underdrive Pulley. Didn't do it with my cam cuz I am stupid. Haven't felt like pulling the steering rack just for a pulley. Also want one that has a better dampner built in.
5. Ti Retainers. I went with 918s and used new stock retainers. Since I have developed a habit of reving past 6k, I think these could help.
Whew. Maybe I have lost my mind, but I actually enjoy tearing into my car. It really feels like MY car now.
While thinking of a plan of attack and a list of things to do I have come up with this:
1. Drop drivetrain. Ouch. Need to get to back of the motor.
2. Service Tranny. Second gear hasn't been smooth since I bought the car and a bad blocker ring has been diagnosed.
3. Rod bolts. The tranny is already out so screw it, I am going to lift the motor, turn it over and replace the bolts. Sucks, yes, but will aid in getting to the pilot bearing also since the LS7 clutch is thicker and tougher to deal with
4. Underdrive Pulley. Didn't do it with my cam cuz I am stupid. Haven't felt like pulling the steering rack just for a pulley. Also want one that has a better dampner built in.
5. Ti Retainers. I went with 918s and used new stock retainers. Since I have developed a habit of reving past 6k, I think these could help.
Whew. Maybe I have lost my mind, but I actually enjoy tearing into my car. It really feels like MY car now.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 874
Likes: 0
From: Bonita CA
I had all of my rod bolts replaced with ARP Pro's when I had all the rod bearings replaced with the performance Clevite ones. The hard part is getting the oil pan off. My '99 has the 2-peice oil pan which is a PITA!
