when doing a cam install should i be running the stock lifters? if so how do you get the cam out without totally removing the lifters from the block. (or do you pull them all the way out?)

 

im waiting

 

Once you have the timing chain off and rocker arms off, spin the cam several times. This should seat all the lifters up in their plastic trays. Normally, with no spring pressure, the lifters fit in the trays snug enough to hold them up.

If you're gutsy, slide old cam out and new cam in fairly quickly. (Don't take a beer break in between).

If during this process, you hear a "tink" sound, that's probably one of your lifters landing in your oil pan, and means you're in for a lot more work.

If you want to be a little safer, you'll see 2 holes on the front of the block next to the cam...get yourself some 5/16" wood dowels about 2' long, and slide them into those holes until they go all the way in to the rear of the block...this is a safety measure to prevent the lifters from dropping out while the cam is out.

Note, these dowels will prevent the lifters from falling completely out of their bores, but if one decides to drop out of the tray, you may have to use a pen magnet and pull it back up through the pushrod hole. If you encounter any difficulty sliding the cam in, look for this is as a possibility.

 

You really should do new lifters to match and wear evenly with the new cam. If you are deadset against pulling the heads to replace the old lifters, I would suggest taking off the valve covers and rockers, pulling the pushrods (should be inspecting them anyway) and use 16 telescopic pen magnets in each pushrod hold to hold the lifters up. usually about $3 each, 48 dollars being a small investment to insure no HUGE headaches later.

Not an expert, just my $.02... Hope that helps!

PS Yes I have done my own h/c swap before, see website in sig.

 

If your that impatient, try searching.

 

ls1howto covers all of this. If you don't have a procedure you're following, then you are asking for major issues.