Rotor Glaze Question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,472
Likes: 18
From: Lake Ozark, MO
Rotor Glaze Question
I just put some aftermarket drilled abnd slotted rotors on today. I seated the pads (three step process) according to the instructions. I have about 25 miles on the car now and three of 4 rotors have a glaze on them- only one is nice and clean The pads are Ctech Metallic. I not real happy with the braking...it feels like I'm pushing my foot against a ball filled with air before the car begins to really stop. And the ABS is activating quicker than before.
Im already getting a lot of pad dust. Do you think if I put my old-almost new ceramic pads (have 2000 miles on them), there would be any improvement?
I sort of cheaped out on these pads...I have Hawks on my Caddy and Neon R/T and they have a great feel.
Im already getting a lot of pad dust. Do you think if I put my old-almost new ceramic pads (have 2000 miles on them), there would be any improvement?
I sort of cheaped out on these pads...I have Hawks on my Caddy and Neon R/T and they have a great feel.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
There will almost always be some pad deposits on the rotors; however, if your braking performance is suffering, I'd recommend going back to OEM or Hawk pads. Also, remember that drilled rotors will eventually crack, so keep an eye on them.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Pad deposit on your rotors is GOOD. After rotors are bed in properly, they should be a blue, purple, indgo color from the heat.
If they are shinny, they have not been bed in properly.
With any drilled and slotted rotor you will have dust. That is what the slots are for, to scrap the pad and keep it clean and free from glazing.
Yes it sounds like the brakes need to bleed again. IF you did not put in fresh DOT 3/4 or 4 brake fluid when you changed the pads and rotors, now is the time to do that.
Good Luck
If they are shinny, they have not been bed in properly.
With any drilled and slotted rotor you will have dust. That is what the slots are for, to scrap the pad and keep it clean and free from glazing.
Yes it sounds like the brakes need to bleed again. IF you did not put in fresh DOT 3/4 or 4 brake fluid when you changed the pads and rotors, now is the time to do that.
Good Luck
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Keep the pads on you have. Just change or bleed your brake fluid.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,190
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville AR
Also, remember that drilled rotors will eventually crack, so keep an eye on them.[/QUOTE]
Not always - I have use cross drilled & slotted for years on the street and off road (in my Jeep Wrangler!) for years and never had one crack yet. On track or if you ride your brakes then maybe.
Not always - I have use cross drilled & slotted for years on the street and off road (in my Jeep Wrangler!) for years and never had one crack yet. On track or if you ride your brakes then maybe.
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
All rotors crack, D&S sooner then plain side. The hole is the start of the stress point. On the street, no need to worry.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
Well that depends upon how you drive on the street. I know at least one CF member who has had cracked D/S rotors from street driving - be safe and stay away from them, especially the cheap ones.
