CAM, etc. installed -- does this sound right?
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: The Woodlands TX
CAM, etc. installed -- does this sound right?
Hey guys -- been fighting exhaust leaks, etc., as I finish up my h/c install, and finally I think I have them solved. So, took a quick vedio of the car running and wanted your feedback on if it sounds "normal" to you for a cammed 'Vette. I have never listened to a cammed LS1 and I'm just curious if this is the sewing machine sound you guys describe, or if I have 'too much' tick. It is a MTI G1 cam, MTI 2E heads, Trick Flow 7.400 pushrods, along with LG Street headers.
Thanks everyone.
Click Here!
Thanks everyone.
Click Here!
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,696
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From: SANTA MARIA,CA. formerly Magnolia Texas
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Hey guys -- been fighting exhaust leaks, etc., as I finish up my h/c install, and finally I think I have them solved. So, took a quick vedio of the car running and wanted your feedback on if it sounds "normal" to you for a cammed 'Vette. I have never listened to a cammed LS1 and I'm just curious if this is the sewing machine sound you guys describe, or if I have 'too much' tick. It is a MTI G1 cam, MTI 2E heads, Trick Flow 7.400 pushrods, along with LG Street headers.
Thanks everyone.
Click Here!
Thanks everyone.
Click Here!
.ENJOY it,you'll love all thenew power.Just make sure you warm it up before taking off cold.Will help valve springs last longer.jerry 
Last edited by XKR100; Apr 7, 2007 at 08:10 PM.
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From: The Woodlands TX
Basically I'm at the point of either taking back to them and having them tune it, or pulling heads again and swapping lifters (which are brand new).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,298
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From: American Canyon Lethal Injection
I have a cam and springs changed.
Now I have the "sewing machine" sound. I have a set of Cadillac Racing Lifters ordered to put in whit my Patriot heads change, it's said that these lifter will cut down on the noise.
Now I have the "sewing machine" sound. I have a set of Cadillac Racing Lifters ordered to put in whit my Patriot heads change, it's said that these lifter will cut down on the noise.
Last edited by SLPRC5; Apr 10, 2007 at 12:46 PM.
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From: The Woodlands TX
Yours and mine sure sound almost the same. I'm just a little nervous about putting in on the dyno for the tune. Not sure what to do ...
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From: The Woodlands TX
Well crud ... picked up a mechanics stethoscope tonight and determined I do indeed have a lifter that isn't pumping up 
. Low RPM it's okay, but held at higher RPM for a short time (~3000 RPM for a a minute or two) and the tick begins. Narrowed it down to the rear of the drivers side. So off with the head, and replace the lifters (which were all replaced when I did my h/c swap).
To pull the head(s) do I have to drain the coolant, pull off the waterpump, etc.? Or, can I get the driver head off by pulling the alternator bracket (and intake, etc., etc., -- I know about that. Just curious about the front end).
Of course, I guess if I pull off the water pump (and drain the coolant) I can use a shopvac to suck out the stranded coolant in the drivers head and avoid contaminating the oil, right? Maybe thats the way to go.
I just want this to be over with.
. Low RPM it's okay, but held at higher RPM for a short time (~3000 RPM for a a minute or two) and the tick begins. Narrowed it down to the rear of the drivers side. So off with the head, and replace the lifters (which were all replaced when I did my h/c swap).To pull the head(s) do I have to drain the coolant, pull off the waterpump, etc.? Or, can I get the driver head off by pulling the alternator bracket (and intake, etc., etc., -- I know about that. Just curious about the front end).
Of course, I guess if I pull off the water pump (and drain the coolant) I can use a shopvac to suck out the stranded coolant in the drivers head and avoid contaminating the oil, right? Maybe thats the way to go.
I just want this to be over with.
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Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Janesville Wisconsin
How long have you let it run? We put a comp XE-R cam in my freinds car and it took an abnormal time for the lifters to pump up.
unfortunately you have to drain the coolant. And Ive always changed the oil afterwords just to be safe. If the oils new you can drain it and if there is no antifreeze in it, put it back in? But I would check it.
unfortunately you have to drain the coolant. And Ive always changed the oil afterwords just to be safe. If the oils new you can drain it and if there is no antifreeze in it, put it back in? But I would check it.
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From: The Woodlands TX
How long have you let it run? We put a comp XE-R cam in my freinds car and it took an abnormal time for the lifters to pump up.
unfortunately you have to drain the coolant. And Ive always changed the oil afterwords just to be safe. If the oils new you can drain it and if there is no antifreeze in it, put it back in? But I would check it.
unfortunately you have to drain the coolant. And Ive always changed the oil afterwords just to be safe. If the oils new you can drain it and if there is no antifreeze in it, put it back in? But I would check it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 3,452
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From: Spring, TX
Since you have new oil. Drain it first before you pull the head and save it in a clean container.
If you are still worried about some coolant possibly worked its way down to the crankcase refill with the real fossilized dinosaur oil and run the car up to temp then drain that and refill with your saved synthetic. It will at least cut down on some of the cost of just wasting 6+ quarts of syn.
If you are still worried about some coolant possibly worked its way down to the crankcase refill with the real fossilized dinosaur oil and run the car up to temp then drain that and refill with your saved synthetic. It will at least cut down on some of the cost of just wasting 6+ quarts of syn.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,298
Likes: 4
From: American Canyon Lethal Injection
Since you have new oil. Drain it first before you pull the head and save it in a clean container.
If you are still worried about some coolant possibly worked its way down to the crankcase refill with the real fossilized dinosaur oil and run the car up to temp then drain that and refill with your saved synthetic. It will at least cut down on some of the cost of just wasting 6+ quarts of syn.
If you are still worried about some coolant possibly worked its way down to the crankcase refill with the real fossilized dinosaur oil and run the car up to temp then drain that and refill with your saved synthetic. It will at least cut down on some of the cost of just wasting 6+ quarts of syn.
Great idea..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,298
Likes: 4
From: American Canyon Lethal Injection
Well crud ... picked up a mechanics stethoscope tonight and determined I do indeed have a lifter that isn't pumping up . Low RPM it's okay, but held at higher RPM for a short time (~3000 RPM for a a minute or two) and the tick begins. Narrowed it down to the rear of the drivers side. So off with the head, and replace the lifters (which were all replaced when I did my h/c swap).
To pull the head(s) do I have to drain the coolant, pull off the waterpump, etc.? Or, can I get the driver head off by pulling the alternator bracket (and intake, etc., etc., -- I know about that. Just curious about the front end).
Of course, I guess if I pull off the water pump (and drain the coolant) I can use a shopvac to suck out the stranded coolant in the drivers head and avoid contaminating the oil, right? Maybe thats the way to go.
I just want this to be over with.
. Low RPM it's okay, but held at higher RPM for a short time (~3000 RPM for a a minute or two) and the tick begins. Narrowed it down to the rear of the drivers side. So off with the head, and replace the lifters (which were all replaced when I did my h/c swap).To pull the head(s) do I have to drain the coolant, pull off the waterpump, etc.? Or, can I get the driver head off by pulling the alternator bracket (and intake, etc., etc., -- I know about that. Just curious about the front end).
Of course, I guess if I pull off the water pump (and drain the coolant) I can use a shopvac to suck out the stranded coolant in the drivers head and avoid contaminating the oil, right? Maybe thats the way to go.
I just want this to be over with.
GM Part # is 88958689...that is the best insurance on having a quieter engine. These lifters sit at the right height when you install an aftermarket cam and the oil passage holes are higher so you get more clearance on the holes and you get better lubrication.My $.02
Last edited by SLPRC5; Apr 10, 2007 at 12:51 PM.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Lenexa Kansas
When I first fired up my 224/224 .581/.581 112LSA cam, it sounded that loud. That was before I had much oil making it's way up to the heads, and it turned out that I had shredded my oil pump O-ring, and I wasn't getting much oil pressure. Now that it's fixed, I don't think it sounds as pronounced as yours. With the hood up, it doesn't sound a whole bunch tickier than stock, but when you squat by the wheel well, it seems like you hear it a lot more than it did in stock trim. My lift is about the same as yours, so I don't know what would account for the difference... Maybe I have less valve lash? The only videos I have in the front end at the moment are with the hood closed. I could shoot one with the hood open. Then again, it seems like digital camera mics are really sensitive, and seem to make things sound louder than they really are.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: The Woodlands TX
When I first fired up my 224/224 .581/.581 112LSA cam, it sounded that loud. That was before I had much oil making it's way up to the heads, and it turned out that I had shredded my oil pump O-ring, and I wasn't getting much oil pressure. Now that it's fixed, I don't think it sounds as pronounced as yours. With the hood up, it doesn't sound a whole bunch tickier than stock, but when you squat by the wheel well, it seems like you hear it a lot more than it did in stock trim.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,561
Likes: 448
From: Atlanta metro Ga.
Well crud ... picked up a mechanics stethoscope tonight and determined I do indeed have a lifter that isn't pumping up . Low RPM it's okay, but held at higher RPM for a short time (~3000 RPM for a a minute or two) and the tick begins. Narrowed it down to the rear of the drivers side. So off with the head, and replace the lifters (which were all replaced when I did my h/c swap).
To pull the head(s) do I have to drain the coolant, pull off the waterpump, etc.? Or, can I get the driver head off by pulling the alternator bracket (and intake, etc., etc., -- I know about that. Just curious about the front end).
Of course, I guess if I pull off the water pump (and drain the coolant) I can use a shopvac to suck out the stranded coolant in the drivers head and avoid contaminating the oil, right? Maybe thats the way to go.
I just want this to be over with.
. Low RPM it's okay, but held at higher RPM for a short time (~3000 RPM for a a minute or two) and the tick begins. Narrowed it down to the rear of the drivers side. So off with the head, and replace the lifters (which were all replaced when I did my h/c swap).To pull the head(s) do I have to drain the coolant, pull off the waterpump, etc.? Or, can I get the driver head off by pulling the alternator bracket (and intake, etc., etc., -- I know about that. Just curious about the front end).
Of course, I guess if I pull off the water pump (and drain the coolant) I can use a shopvac to suck out the stranded coolant in the drivers head and avoid contaminating the oil, right? Maybe thats the way to go.
I just want this to be over with.
Who told you the stock length (7.400) PR's were correct for this application??
Lifters are not necessarily a magic bullet fix here, that’s the last item I’d be concerned with.. Lifters that aren't "pumping up" are extremely obvious (VERY loud, standing out from the rest.. I don't hear that in your video clip).
Other less-intrusive solutions to try first.. Longer PR's, then roller-tipped rockers, in that order.
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; Apr 11, 2007 at 12:23 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
Hold on, don't pull your heads just yet.. I've listened to the video clip; welcome to the "I installed a cam and now my car sounds like a sewing machine" club.
Who told you the stock length (7.400) PR's were correct for this application??
Lifters are not necessarily a magic bullet fix here, that’s the last item I’d be concerned with.. Lifters that aren't "pumping up" are extremely obvious (VERY loud, standing out from the rest.. I don't hear that in your video clip).
Other less-intrusive solutions to try first.. Longer PR's, then roller-tipped rockers, in that order.
Who told you the stock length (7.400) PR's were correct for this application??
Lifters are not necessarily a magic bullet fix here, that’s the last item I’d be concerned with.. Lifters that aren't "pumping up" are extremely obvious (VERY loud, standing out from the rest.. I don't hear that in your video clip).
Other less-intrusive solutions to try first.. Longer PR's, then roller-tipped rockers, in that order.
The other things to watch for is "dirt". I was very careful when I did my heads, and very fortunate to have a borescope home from work. Prior to lifter install (Morel's) I looked through the entire lifter/oil gallery with the borescope and found a small piece of MLS gasket rubber out of sight in the oil gallery. Something like this could result in a lifter not pumping up correctly. You may want to pull the offending pushrod and look down on top of the lifter to see if there is anything you can see that might block oil flow, although this is only the outlet side of the lifter.
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Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 681
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From: The Woodlands TX
Hold on, don't pull your heads just yet.. I've listened to the video clip; welcome to the "I installed a cam and now my car sounds like a sewing machine" club.
Who told you the stock length (7.400) PR's were correct for this application??
Lifters are not necessarily a magic bullet fix here, that’s the last item I’d be concerned with.. Lifters that aren't "pumping up" are extremely obvious (VERY loud, standing out from the rest.. I don't hear that in your video clip).
Other less-intrusive solutions to try first.. Longer PR's, then roller-tipped rockers, in that order.
Who told you the stock length (7.400) PR's were correct for this application??
Lifters are not necessarily a magic bullet fix here, that’s the last item I’d be concerned with.. Lifters that aren't "pumping up" are extremely obvious (VERY loud, standing out from the rest.. I don't hear that in your video clip).
Other less-intrusive solutions to try first.. Longer PR's, then roller-tipped rockers, in that order.
The other things to watch for is "dirt". I was very careful when I did my heads, and very fortunate to have a borescope home from work. Prior to lifter install (Morel's) I looked through the entire lifter/oil gallery with the borescope and found a small piece of MLS gasket rubber out of sight in the oil gallery. Something like this could result in a lifter not pumping up correctly. You may want to pull the offending pushrod and look down on top of the lifter to see if there is anything you can see that might block oil flow, although this is only the outlet side of the lifter.
I was very careful cleaning gasket material, etc. when I did this the first time. Short of a boroscope which I don't have access too, how can I check the oil galley?
Pro
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Lenexa Kansas
Mine was much louder at start up too ... I'm getting a very consistent 40psi on the oil pressure, so that's not my problem. Just curious, what length pushrods are you using? Agreed it sounds much louder by the wheel well -- I attribute that to the headers though.