DTE A4 brace mod
Also, the person I bought the brace from, had welded a stiffner in between the two bosses. But I had noticed the bar had a severe bow in it. So I straightened it as much as possible on the arbor press, and then machined it flat. This brace is very nice now.
Maybe DTE will see this and incorpate this idea into there braces. I think it's a good idea, and will give a little more room under the car for the strut rods.
Also, the person I bought the brace from, had welded a stiffner in between the two bosses. But I had noticed the bar had a severe bow in it. So I straightened it as much as possible on the arbor press, and then machined it flat. This brace is very nice now.
Maybe DTE will see this and incorpate this idea into there braces. I think it's a good idea, and will give a little more room under the car for the strut rods.
Once our products ship from our facility and the owner (or previous owner in your case) chooses to modify the components from their original design, than all bets are off if the products fit properly anymore as they were originally designed.
Last edited by DTE Powertrain; Jun 17, 2007 at 02:50 PM.
I was only offering a friendly suggestion. I have seen someone else on here that had the exact same problem, and his wasn't welded on. I know there is a lot of stacked tolerances that make it clear one car, and not another? But if you find a couple cars with problems, shouldn't you address the issure, or just ignore it and tell the consumer it's there problem? I wasn't trying bad mouth your product, but there is always room for improvements in any product. Otherwise, we would all still be driving Model A fords. Sorry if I stepped on your ego.
Also, the person I bought the brace from, had welded a stiffner in between the two bosses. But I had noticed the bar had a severe bow in it. So I straightened it as much as possible on the arbor press, and then machined it flat. This brace is very nice now.
Maybe DTE will see this and incorpate this idea into there braces. I think it's a good idea, and will give a little more room under the car for the strut rods.
Nice job!
And the reason I posted this, was not to make DTE look bad in anyway. I think DTE makes awesome products. I just wanted to let people know to check the rods when the tranny is all the way up. And show DTE something that might could help the couple cars out of thousands that might have this problem. As I said, there is a lot of stacked tolerences here, that could give one car a half inch clearance, and another a 1/2 inch interference.
I was only offering a friendly suggestion. I have seen someone else on here that had the exact same problem, and his wasn't welded on. I know there is a lot of stacked tolerances that make it clear one car, and not another? But if you find a couple cars with problems, shouldn't you address the issure, or just ignore it and tell the consumer it's there problem? I wasn't trying bad mouth your product, but there is always room for improvements in any product. Otherwise, we would all still be driving Model A fords. Sorry if I stepped on your ego.
Have a nice day.
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Nice job regarding the fabrication...
Your photos are very clear showing the modifications you made. Do you have photos showing the interference that forced your decision to make the modification you did?
Here is the problem guys......and not trying to bash the product. The brace was bought from me....originally. On the 97-98 years the fuel crossover line is much larger than the 99+ years......the brace will rub....I sent pictures to Dynotech after the install....because this bothered me. I have since switched to newer tanks which have a different crossover tube...problem eliminated....
Also the bowing in the braket was not from heat made by the welding of the bar between the joints. When I put the recommended turns on the rods it actually bowed the bracket....I did notify Dynotech of this too!......The block was an attempt to re-enforce the bracket to liminate bowing....it worked somewhat but still bowed a little...
I am certain if you check your brace there will be some amount of bowing,....I have a friend with the same thing.........I too had to grind down the emergency brake bracket for clearance
Phil......dont get me wrong....still a great product need addition to the corvette world. Remember the call about the squeaky joint...and I bought a hardware kit??? It turned out to be the rod rubbing on the E-brake bracket..
There are variances in differences in all year vettes.....so items like this may pop up....
I highly recommend the bracket.......
Tom
Last edited by Tomulrich; Jun 18, 2007 at 08:17 AM.
Also the bowing in the braket was not from heat made by the welding of the bar between the joints. When I put the recommended turns on the rods it actually bowed the bracket....I did notify Dynotech of this too!......The block was an attempt to re-enforce the bracket to liminate bowing....it worked somewhat but still bowed a little...
I am certain if you check your brace there will be some amount of bowing,....I have a friend with the same thing.........I too had to grind down the emergency brake bracket for clearance
Phil......dont get me wrong....still a great product need addition to the corvette world. Remember the call about the squeaky joint...and I bought a hardware kit??? It turned out to be the rod rubbing on the E-brake bracket..
There are variances in differences in all year vettes.....so items like this may pop up....
I highly recommend the bracket.......
Tom
About a full year after it's initial release for the A4, a couple of our customers (Tom included) called to let us know of a slight interference w/ the chassis on some applications, however random the occurance. We observed the issue and found that production tolerances for the vehicle are all over the board from GM, which is typical from production-line "hurry-up" output. Therefore, we made a slight change to the top transmission mounting bracket to alleviate the possible interference issue to accommodate those odd-ball cars and the problem has been corrected ever since..that was nearly 2 years ago now... The kit in these pictures is a very early design kit by the looks of it.
As far as the instructions go with regards to adjusting the strut rods~
When we first released the kits, we had instructions to adjust the strut rods to 1 1/4 turn past zero lash, as that was the best adjustment point we found that provided the best pre-load of of the product for the given application.
However, we soon found that most folks either didn't know how to follow our instructions on how to properly adjust the strut rods to our specs or they thought that "some is good, so more must be better" and they overtightened the strut rods to the point of differential failure or bracket damage.
We then changed our strut rod adjustment procedures a little lighter to accommodate those that don't like to follow directions and for those that like to over-torque things, no matter what the product is. Ever since we made those changes, the strut rod adjustment "issues" have resolved themselves.
We've not had issues with either topic for over 2 years now with the changes we've made to our product and instructions that better suits the DIY'er world.
DTE makes very reputable products that I am happy to run on my car. This post shouldn't hurt their reputation. It makes us aware of a possible issue on some cars.
So much for trying to show them what I thought was a good idea.
"If you choose to take our factual statements in a negative way other than the way it was intended, then that's your prerogative, but don't make out what we stated to be anything other than what it is/was. It's that easy.."
Have a nice day.












In any case I will let you know how the install goes.


W, it`s gettin a little warm in here!