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Because of the relative light weight of the C5 rotors it is imperative that you use a torque wrench and torque your wheels exactly like FSM describes.
If you don't follow the directions you will physically warp your rotors which you may have already done. Try retighening them correctly.
How do you clean? Is it that evident when you inspect them?
Regards-
John
No it's not evident. The uneven build up, if that's your problem, is not visible. Take some 100 grit or so sandpaper on a sanding block and give them a good scrub. It would be easier to remove them to do it. But if you don't know how then scrub both side and turn the rotor by hand. Then go follow that stoptech brake pad bed in process. If they still pulse badly then time for new rotors.
SERIOUSLY, this is important to read. If re-bedding your brakes doesn't work you can turn the rotors and replace the pads. I just swapped rotors for napa rotors, very cheap, search my screen name for archives and you'll pry find the part numbers. The swap was cheaper than I finding someone to turn the rotors.
Because of the relative light weight of the C5 rotors it is imperative that you use a torque wrench and torque your wheels exactly like FSM describes.
If you don't follow the directions you will physically warp your rotors which you may have already done. Try retighening them correctly.
AGAIN, read the stoptech article...but "warping" aside. I spoke to one of the GM engineers at Vettes on the Rockies a few years ago, and he told me it was very important to torque the rotors. His exact words were to torque the rotors in a star pattern, 30, 60, 90, 100 foot pounds. Believe it if you want. I always torque the wheels onto any car, but I prescribe to the stoptech article.
Make about 10 or 15 HARD STOPS from say 70 or so down to 20 MPH to really get the brakes HOT. DON'T KEEP THE PEDAL ON TO A COMPLETE STOP OR YOU WILL GET MORE BRAKE MATERIAL ON THE ROTORS. Most rotors AREN'T WARPED just have some brake residue on them. Super hard braking can remove most of that material. BIGHANK
My car occasionally pulsates just before it stops. I don’t drive the car hard so it is likely buildup as described in the StopTech article. My ‘cure’ has always been to make one medium hard stop and it brakes smooth for a while. This probably only works for cars that aren’t driven hard, but for daily drivers used for transportation like mine it seems to do the trick.
Slamming the brakes is only temporary at best. The only permanent solution if you'd like to continue to use the excellent OEM pads is to replace the rotors with slotted versions. I bought PowerSlot rotors a few years ago and have not had any pulsating brake pedal issues, since.
I would either get the rotors cut or install new ones. Make sure you clean the rust off the mounting surfaces so they mount true. I've gone 6000 miles since surfacing mine and the brakes are still excellent. I'm lucky since I can borrow a brake lathe and do them for free. I did the ebrake drum too so it works great now.
I've put my S10 one piece hub and rotor onto the lathe using the bearing races to mount it and it had run-out indicating a warped rotor. The vette rotors seemed more to be just uneven but I didn't check them really, just cut them and went.
Peter
Last edited by lionelhutz; Aug 11, 2008 at 06:03 PM.
One of my sons has a hotrod Mustang with a Brembo / PowerSlot combo that has been working great for several years. I drove the car myself for a while and the were flawless.
David.
On my '99, I kept having the rotors getting warped. Had them turned more than once, replaced them once and always the problem kept coming back. Finally, I bought new rotors again and put on ceramic pads at the same time. No more problems following that.