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Driving from one work site to another, and the car flashes "check gauges" at me, and starts to shut down. I managed to get it shut down before the oil pressure went to nothing. Pushed it to the side of the road. Nothing leaking, dip stick shows oil. No codes in the DIC. It's an 02 Z06 with no engine mods. Got it to the shop (tow truck driver pulled the wheel sensor cable apart, bummer), and it'll start, but runs awful. Still no codes (well, wheel sensor code now), according to the Tech II at the shop. Anyone have something like that happen?
My 02 Z06 recently died in a similar way. The engine began sputtering and loosing power, then died all within a quarter of a mile. The problem was that the driver side fuel tank had run dry even though the passenger side tank still had fuel in it.
The jet pump had not been transferring fuel to the driver’s side tank. After adding some fuel it fired right up.
I suspected that debris had clogged up the jet pump fuel supply circuit so I disconnected the fuel lines from the passenger side tank and blew them out with compressed air.
My assumption must have been correct because everything is functioning normally now.
I hope your repair ends up being as inexpensive as mine was, (FREE!).
Wheel Sensor:
As long as it didn't get ripped directly out of the wheel bearing you should be able to splice it back together to avoid costly replacement of the whole bearing assembly.
Please let us know what the problem turns out to be. This kind of information can be very helpful for other members trying to diagnose problems in the future.
Looking worse, rather than better. Anyone seen that before? No compression would indicate a bent valve (likely from piston contact). I have no idea why the 75 pound reading.
Looking worse, rather than better. Anyone seen that before? No compression would indicate a bent valve (likely from piston contact). I have no idea why the 75 pound reading.
Your reading are all over the place. Posible cause could be that the cam bolts upfront cam loose and created problem which caused PTV clearance problems.
At this point, I would pull of heads and see what you got. Only other thing that comes to mind is a blown head gasket.
Don't know why you would lose oil pressure if it was a valve spring, but who knows ?
Could be a bad switch ? There is one for oil level on drivers side.
It's hard to tell from the wording, but I got the impression that the car died while it was driving, which would make the oil pressure read 0. I don't think it lost oil pressure and THEN died.
It definitely does sound like some valves. I wonder if you lost some valve springs, the valves hit the pistons and that's why your compression is down? Not sure on that 75 reading either, that's weird. I'd be pulling those valve covers and taking a look (and then the same with the heads). Hopefully it's not blown ring(s) or hole in a piston.
Looking worse, rather than better. Anyone seen that before? No compression would indicate a bent valve (likely from piston contact). I have no idea why the 75 pound reading.
Well since one bank is 1,3,5,7 and the other bank is 2,4,6,8 if I am reading this correctly then it wouldn't be Head gasket failure since you have bad readings from both banks (not likely). My first thought is something could have gone bad on the cam gear. Bashing and bending valves possibly (did you hear anything like that). Not sure on the loosing oil pressure though unless its just because engine speed was down so pressure dropped. If it was valve springs then it looks like you lost more than 1 spring. Odd.
I was thinking the cam sprocket bolts loosened up. The cam could walk back and forth blocking the oil passages. The engine could still run but very poorly. Try removing a rocker cover and turning the crank by hand foreward while watching the cam action. Then turn the crank backwards and see if there is any slop.
Sorry to hear the bad news yakisoba.
Today I searched the archives for "broken valve spring". It appeared like #5 and #8 failed more often than the others. If that is indeed true, I wonder why that would be?
Valve spring failure did not seem to have any correlation to mileage.
I was surprised to read about the failures that happened at idle or just off idle in a low to no load conditions.
Some engines were spared, needing only to have the springs replaced. Others weren't so lucky. Hopefully your damage will be minimal.
I may have to add new valve springs to the short list of preventative maintenance on my '02 Z06.
I was thinking the cam sprocket bolts loosened up. The cam could walk back and forth blocking the oil passages. The engine could still run but very poorly. Try removing a rocker cover and turning the crank by hand foreward while watching the cam action. Then turn the crank backwards and see if there is any slop.
Dave
I had this happen not too long ago. The symptom is a hard start since the computer ends up using the crank position sensor to time the car. It takes longer to start sometimes since it can be 180* out. It tries it one way if it does not start changes the timing 180* and tries again. Once the car was running it ran pretty well. You will get a code (P0340, the code o' death) though since the cam position sensor is not working right since it is out of tolerance distance wise. Supposedly, the valve interference thing is not likely, since the cam can not walk out far enough for the lifters to drop off the lobes. It hits the cover first. We caught mine when it had walked out only about an 1/8".
^ Are you guys having cam bolt issues on stock setups? Or are you not putting red loc-tite on them when modding the motor?
Mine motor was stock, obviously the S/C is not. The Cam had never been removed. I have heard that it has happened on completely stock cars without the S/C or any motor mods.