Ok here goes another long post from me

Here are the stats:

1999 Coupe
Mild bolt on mods (see sig)
176XXX miles
LS7 Clutch less than 5k miles
I have never tracked the car or power shifted it, a few WOT runs but I shifted with my foot off the gas and waited till the engine revs matched the gear before getting back on the gas.

So here are the symptoms, clutch is at the half way point if I pull it up with my foot it stay up push it down and it pops up only to half way. Engine on car wont go into gear, however when I try to put it in gear and have the shift pushed say like trying to go into first the car will move slowly Engine off and it goes into gear just fine.

Now the odd part Engine off facing down a hill with the clutch all the way down and the transmission in first it will roll let my foot off the lutch and it will stop.


My thoughts on this is the clutch is not full disengaging and the synchros in the tranny close the shifts gates so I cant get a gear when the engine is running but with it off the tranny will let me in gear just fine.

Clutch fluid is clear only slightly discolored I have however had to change it out because in San Diego I was on a steep hill and a car pulled up almost literally on my bumper and I had only been driving a stick for a week so I slipped the heck out of the clutch so I would roll back and hit them.

 

Anyone???

 

Check out this site. http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

Sounds like what is causing the problem is gunk build up in the slave. I know you said the fluid is only slightly discoloured but maybe all the crap in the slave hasn't been flushed out. Read what Ranger has to say and give it a try. Let me know what happens.

Matt

 

I have done this before with success just never had issues as bad as this, for the record I had to have the oil pan and rear main replaced and the cam position sensor is also leaking so I think it's oil from these causing the problems tomorrow after work I will try this (rangers) process again and see if it helps.

If push comes to shove any good after market clutches that retain at least decent drive ability?

 

No dice I pumped the clutch 50 times and saw no change in the fluid and the same symptoms looks like another 2k down the tubes for a new clutch.

 

I installed the Textralia X-grip, very nice street clutch. The Z-grip is the six puck design more suited to racing, the X-grip is the dual sided disc. Little heavier pedal than stock, but drive very nice just keep the RPM up a bit when starting from a stop. Its also lighter than the LS6 clutch, so you will notice the motor may spin up faster.

 

How much power is it rated to hold?

 

Did you use the aluminum flywheel or the steel?

 

Steel, its 6 lbs lighter than stock.

 

I don't see how you could possible need a new clutch. I would rebleed the sytem. Sounds like you may have taken in air somehow. I always start small and then go big. When you did the clutch did you do the slave? I highly doubt it's the clutch.

Good luck!
Dan

 

How do you bleed the system???

 

Unless you have a remote bleeder, its a horrible job. The bleeder is up top where the torque tube bolts to the bell housing. Once you find it, you can figure the rest. If there was a worse place to locate it, I can't think of one.

 

Im assuming it has some sort of valve you open which in turns bleeds all the clutch fluid, then close it off and refill from the reservoir and pump the clutch like heck to get the air out? I have pumped the clutch over a hundred times and the fluid is still totally clear in the reservoir so I don't think I am lucky enough to have it just be a case of dirty fluid.

 

If you look very closely at the photo, the top end of the bleeder has a hex head that you put a wrench on. That is what you are looking for under the car. Best bet would be to go under the car and find it first, then figure out if you have a way to bleed it.

 

Tip: When bleeding via the bleeder screw do not "pump the heck out of it". Do it just like you would bleed a brake caliper. Slow steady pushes on the pedal, then hold while the bleeder screw gets opened.
BTW, in case you haven't guessed by now, this does require two people to do this procedure.

 

And if you have a choice, you should pump the pedal

 

Just not in some wild frenzy of rapid pumping.

 

I had the same issues, exactly what is described. Had the thing bled twice and the sticking issues continued to happen, at hard launch and shifting at high rpms.

I'll say it again, the LS7 clutch sucks!

Is the orginal poster shifting at or under 6200rpms? If you have a tune and your shifting at higher rpms, the LS7 does not clamp sufficiently enough to stop the power, to engage the next gear.

Bleed it out, clean it out and two weeks later it will happen again.

 

I have never had the car at the track and on spirited runs I shift at around 6k Rpm and let off the gas totally. I agree the LS7 clutch does stink and I already plan on changing it I just want the car road worthy.

 

I gathered that much, now all I need is the Tools, the Time and another willing person. -sigh- I'd hate my car if I didnt love it so much.