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I dont understand this logic, Of course i would not re-use the headgasket, but there are no gaskets on the manifold, and if yoru talking about the o-rings they are meant to be re-used and ive never seen them cause any problems.
The exhaust gaskets are metal, and once again ive re-used them so many times i cant even count, and ive never had a problem with them
I with you on that one. I understand why not the head gaskets, but everything else?
I dont understand this logic, Of course i would not re-use the headgasket, but there are no gaskets on the manifold, and if yoru talking about the o-rings they are meant to be re-used and ive never seen them cause any problems.
The exhaust gaskets are metal, and once again ive re-used them so many times i cant even count, and ive never had a problem with them
The rubber seals on the intake dry out from age and heat and since he did not state how old or their condition, I recommended replacing them.
It's a PIA to take it all apart over $30 worth of gaskets. I tend to err on the side of caution as I don't have time to do the job twice.
The rubber seals on the intake dry out from age and heat and since he did not state how old or their condition, I recommended replacing them.
It's a PIA to take it all apart over $30 worth of gaskets. I tend to err on the side of caution as I don't have time to do the job twice.
While i wont debate that rubber can dry out, in the Dozens of manifold swaps ive done ive never had to replace them, same with the exhaust gaskets, there metal, they dont wear out.
While i wont debate that rubber can dry out, in the Dozens of manifold swaps ive done ive never had to replace them, same with the exhaust gaskets, there metal, they dont wear out.
I reused countless exhaust gaskets and intake rubber o-rings.
Other than #7 being the hot cylinder (i'm sure you know that), I can't say for certain.
My gut feeling is that my highway tune wasn't quite appropriate for the heat seen at the track and I drove through some knock on a session I wasn't logging.
I talked to a friend who ran this all by some notable local engine guys, and they seemed to have no concern with just replacing #7 along with a quick hone job. They were less enthusiastic about reusing my "reusable" cometic head gasket. I'm interested in trying this quick fix just b/c there is so much conflicting opinion on whether or not this is a good/bad idea. If I had a bit more money and time before the track season I'd likely go ahead and pull it for a new one, but right now this is worth a shot.
In my case all cylinders were 180-190 compression and #7 was 90. I did the test b/c of smoking at the track.
Last edited by BQuicksilver; Mar 22, 2008 at 03:44 PM.
Does anyone do leakdown compression testing like done on aircraft piston engines? Seems to me that would save a lot of this exploratory disassembly. Think hard about reusing any gaskets or seals. They are pretty cheap insurance against the kind of small leaks that car lean a cylinder to the point it detonates or burns a hole in the piston. Of course it could just dump a load of coolant in your oil and take out the lower end. Not worth it for the compared costs.
I think most people do leakdown tests *if* they have a bad compression test. I did one and it pointed to a piston/ring issue. I don't know of too many people who just start pulling heads off, though some do.
Some gaskets are perfectly fine to reuse, like manifold and header gaskets. My reusable head gasket most likely won't go back in.
I think most people do leakdown tests *if* they have a bad compression test. I did one and it pointed to a piston/ring issue. I don't know of too many people who just start pulling heads off, though some do.
Some gaskets are perfectly fine to reuse, like manifold and header gaskets. My reusable head gasket most likely won't go back in.
Sometimes a compression test will show OK and then the Leakdown will tell the real story
My wife bought me a Boroscope, its worth its weight in gold for this type of thing because you can go right in through the spark plug hole and take a good look around.
Our testing on the use of sub octane fuel ( 87 octane ) we always found that # 7 cylinder was the first to exhibit some failure, be it a ring or the top of the piston, connecting rod bearing or wrist pin. I'M not saying that you were using 87 octane fuel but this is the typical outcome of the use of 87 octane. Ive tried to point this out a dozen times over the years, and those who think this is a fluke, or I dont know what I'M talking about...a cracked ring can be very costly in the face of detonation, under any circumstance. So using 87 octane just puts your engine at risk...use it all the time and you can knock off 100,000 miles of trouble free driving. Those who advocate the use of 87 octane fuel could have been the reason this member lost a cylinder.
I am very sorry for the grief with your car...and hope things work out with the least amount of stress possible.
Bill aka ET
Last edited by Evil-Twin; Mar 23, 2008 at 09:54 PM.
My wife bought me a Boroscope, its worth its weight in gold for this type of thing because you can go right in through the spark plug hole and take a good look around.
What is the appropriate ring gap for stock rings on an LS1 car that will see roadracing type temps/use?
Also, can the pin be replaced to change a piston at home, or does it require a machine shop to do the work? I couldn't quite tell looking at it and wanted to set up a weekend appt if it needed a pro to do the work.
What is the appropriate ring gap for stock rings on an LS1 car that will see roadracing type temps/use?
Also, can the pin be replaced to change a piston at home, or does it require a machine shop to do the work? I couldn't quite tell looking at it and wanted to set up a weekend appt if it needed a pro to do the work.
I would take it to a pro to get the wrist pin sized properly and would alos check the weight of the broken piston to make sure you're close as there is nothing worse than an out of balanced motor.