I Need Help.... ?? Blew a Piston Ring
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,295
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis Indiana
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I also installed an LS2 tensioner, water pump, and oil pan while I was in there.
Doing it this way saved me pulling the radiator out and torque tube off. The cradle still comes off to get the oil pan off, so its still a major project either way.
Feel free to ask if you have questions. It can be done, but about the only big step it saves vs a full pull is removing the radiator since a lot of the front drive items needed to come off with the driver side head.
Last edited by BQuicksilver; Apr 16, 2008 at 11:35 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,955
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From: PNW
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
Yes, and it worked out. I just started it yesterday. #7 made 194 compression before starting it and I haven't checked it after 3 heat cycles. Either way it's now my strongest cylinder. I think my ring land was broken for quite some time and got worse as I drove it hard. I was chasing tunes for over a year and after seeing how good the idle is now I bet that was my problem. I just used a 3 stone hone and checked all my ring gaps before re-install. #7 is a bit tough to hone b/c the cowl doesn't let you have a straight shot at things. Dropping in the piston was a bit trickier than expected since I was VERY careful not to scuff anything.
I also installed an LS2 tensioner, water pump, and oil pan while I was in there.
Doing it this way saved me pulling the radiator out and torque tube off. The cradle still comes off to get the oil pan off, so its still a major project either way.
Feel free to ask if you have questions. It can be done, but about the only big step it saves vs a full pull is removing the radiator since a lot of the front drive items needed to come off with the driver side head.
I also installed an LS2 tensioner, water pump, and oil pan while I was in there.
Doing it this way saved me pulling the radiator out and torque tube off. The cradle still comes off to get the oil pan off, so its still a major project either way.
Feel free to ask if you have questions. It can be done, but about the only big step it saves vs a full pull is removing the radiator since a lot of the front drive items needed to come off with the driver side head.
Did you have any problems re-installing the connecting rod after removing it.
The reason that I ask is that I am thinking of upgrading my rod bolts on a 99 FRC with the Kateck units, but am afraid that once I release the torque the caps may distort and I'll end up having to pull the motor to get all of the journals resized.
Anybody ever do this ? It's a 99 FRC with about 40K on the clock.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,295
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From: Indianapolis Indiana
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I can't say I mic'ed the caps out or anything like that. I just released them a little on each bolt at a time and made sure evrything was properly lubed on re-install. The sleeves on the rod bolts were really tough to get out of the cap, but I don't think your 99 has these.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
I can't say I mic'ed the caps out or anything like that. I just released them a little on each bolt at a time and made sure evrything was properly lubed on re-install. The sleeves on the rod bolts were really tough to get out of the cap, but I don't think your 99 has these.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Burlington NC
Yes, and it worked out. I just started it yesterday. #7 made 194 compression before starting it and I haven't checked it after 3 heat cycles. Either way it's now my strongest cylinder. I think my ring land was broken for quite some time and got worse as I drove it hard. I was chasing tunes for over a year and after seeing how good the idle is now I bet that was my problem. I just used a 3 stone hone and checked all my ring gaps before re-install. #7 is a bit tough to hone b/c the cowl doesn't let you have a straight shot at things. Dropping in the piston was a bit trickier than expected since I was VERY careful not to scuff anything.
I also installed an LS2 tensioner, water pump, and oil pan while I was in there.
Doing it this way saved me pulling the radiator out and torque tube off. The cradle still comes off to get the oil pan off, so its still a major project either way.
Feel free to ask if you have questions. It can be done, but about the only big step it saves vs a full pull is removing the radiator since a lot of the front drive items needed to come off with the driver side head.
I also installed an LS2 tensioner, water pump, and oil pan while I was in there.
Doing it this way saved me pulling the radiator out and torque tube off. The cradle still comes off to get the oil pan off, so its still a major project either way.
Feel free to ask if you have questions. It can be done, but about the only big step it saves vs a full pull is removing the radiator since a lot of the front drive items needed to come off with the driver side head.
