I've had EBCTM problems since I got my C5 in January. the problems haven't been getting worse and were few and far between so they ended up out of sight, out of mind. then last night I used my ABS because some guy decided to be standing in the middle of the road out in the middle of nowhere, VA. Today during the Ratpack cruise (lots of fun!) while making some noise in a tunnel my problem made itself apparent again. I think enough it enough and I need to get this problem solved.

here are the symptoms:
1 out of every 100 or so times I start my car I get service TC, service ABS, service AH messages. restarting the car makes them go away.
1 out of every 5 times or so the ABS or traction control activates I get the same messages. again a restart is all the car needs to be done with them, usually for days or weeks.

Stealership diagnosed it as an internal failure of the EBCTM, it must be replaced. I think thats just another example of how stealerships fix all problems, keep throwing expensive parts at it until its fixed.

the DIC shows one particular code after the events of today and yesterday. C1243, BPMV Pump Motor Stalled. I have no signs of the classic 1214 so far. I've searched on the forums and it looks like this is usually caused by grounding problems, loose wires, bad connectors etc. I have already cleaned up the two grounding points on the frame rails while dealing with another problem my C5 came with. is that where the EBCTM and BPMV are grounded on a 99? (seems to change some from year to year) Based on what I've read it looks like this is not a job for absfixer but may be something cheap and easy. my next attempted fix will be to unplug the EBCTM connector and inspect/clean the contacts if possible.

Any further advice on what to do? What is the best way to clean the contacts of the connector? Should I use some contact cleaner or light sand paper to make sure they are not corroded? If I find a wire which appears to be loose on the connector...then what? Can that be fixed? should I try to get some dialectic grease on that connector to keep it clean? (I think I read that the EBCTM connector doesn't take kindly to dialectic grease?) Are there any other likely culprits or things I should be checking for possible causes?

Sorry for the long detailed post, but I really want to put all of these EBCTM issues behind me.

 

See the post below titled "Please Help". Read every word Bill Curlee says and you'll be fine. He's the EBTCM (1214) guru here. I seem to recall a 1243 fix by reseating the EBTCM plug. Make SURE its evenly seated and locked on and make sure the ground connections at the frame near the alternator are clean to start.

Go here too -- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=896875

 

Never have I read a truer statement.

 

I've had a C1214 (resulted in an EBCM change) and recently a C1287 which I thought was the steering wheel position sensor. Between us it looks like we have a full set

I didnt get as far as replacing the sensor. I cleaned up the connectors at the wheel hubs and there's a big improvement. I used electronics cleaner but they weren't corroded. I was getting nuisance trips after AH captions on the DIC., Like you it would reset on restart and only left a H code.

I'd say your diagnosis sounds good and it may well be the BPMV unit. That said, the electrics can be temperamental and and it may be worth cleaning up those connectors as you suggest before any expensive box changes. Not at all sure that the dealer has it right.

The EBCM is grounded at G103 and G108

Bill, trussme and BlackZ06 are real wizards at the EBCM issues.

Dont think I've seen a How To on a BPMV change but I'm sure someone must have done it. Hope it doesn't come to that.

 

If ,u have to buy a New Ebcm ,I Would Highly reccommend Gene Culley ,His Parts service are 2nd to none,The Ebcm module had to be replaced in my car also,I was quoted 580.00 From the stealership,Gene was able to get me this module for 360.00 ,So the choice is obvious,also there is a 12 month 1yr warrnaty from gm on this part

 

I certainly will, Gene is already familiar with my VISA card! I already got a quote from him on it. if I do end up with a new one, is it a direct swap or does it need to be programmed/configured at all? I would definitely like to avoid a trip to the dealership.

 

Your BPMV motor is very similar to an early rear mounted EBTCM/BPMV.

I have a picture of the motor ground on a 97 chassis. There is a small ground lug on the rear of the electric motor:



Remember, yours is up front but you still have the external ground. That ground lug goes over to G-101 as a single wire with its own eyelet:



The ground eyelet should be under the tab on the ground connector.



Clean that ground lug but be careful!! There are TWO nuts on the stud. Hold the one closest to the motor STILL and don't let the stud or nut turn or you will damage the motor.

Use LOTS of PB Blaster or creep and let it soak over night before you attempt to loosen it.

Check the connection on the EBTCM and make sure the connections are tight and clean. You can remove the back shell on the connector and examine all the wires.



Make sure that connection is clean. I don't recommend putting dielectric grease on to electrical connections. If the connection is dirty, just spray it out with electrical cleaner and reassemble. You should however apply some dielectric grease to the rubber seal on the connector to help it seal.

 

I have an 01 and was looking for the ground wire on the pump....it appears that the ground wire runs to the main ZIF connector on the ebcm side. I traced the wire down from the ground on the rail because there is no ground wire on the pump. They must have determined a different way to ground it. I have been paying attention to all of these post because if my SWPS doesn't fix my C1287 code then I will look to the EBCM as the culprit...but no ground on the motor itself. Thanks for all of you help as usual.

 

Yep, 2001 + does not have an external ground and the ground wire runs through the connector. I hope I didnt confuse you. Heres the 2001 up close and personal:



The ground still attaches at G-101

BC

 

Anyone who is having problems with intermittent wheel speed sensor issues and any electrical issue that comes and goes, needs to inspect all the electrical connectors in the circuit that have female pins. The female pins that GM uses in most of their connectors have bad habbit of relaxing and become unstable. The small spring tab inside that grips male pin bends and if you insert a male pin in the female pin, you will find out that it will literaly just fall out. If the female pin is good, you will have to extract it with some force.

I disassembled a bad emergency flasher a while back and kept the male pins for testing female pins. Here is a picture of the male pin:





Here is a very good example of what a good and bad female pin looks like The BAD connector is on the right:



A new connector is on the left!

BC

 

Nope...no confusion...I am getting to know the car's electrical system really well as a result of asking, looking, and tracing things out.

 

Heres a simple fix that may save you time and energy as it solved my intermittant similar problem. Simply seperate and treat the mating contacts at the mating connector using:
Caig Labs products (Deoxit - to clean, and Pro Gold- to enhance & protect).

http://www.caig.com/ &
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.12/cat...e.KB/KB.215/.f
(read testimonials on website to get an idea of application info and how it saved others)

or you can purchase at Radio Shack
http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...w=progold&sr=1

 

The problem isn't as much a corrosion or dirt issue as it is a POOR Mechanical contact issue. There just isn't any friction on the pin and the vibrations cause the male pin to loose contact with the female pin. If i put a male pin in the bad female pin (connector shown) it will literaly FALL OUT if you turn the connector up side down. No cleaner will fix that! A good pin connection, you will have to apply some force to extract the pin.

BC