Also, where is the pump located and do you need a shorter belt or is the pump electrical only?

 

I've heard 10-15lbs. Doesn't run on a belt, so that's not an issue.

 

The "ELECTRIC" pump is below the drivers headlight:

 

10 - 15lbs - That's what I heard too, and boy was I disappointed when I took mine off today. The blasted thing is only plastic and probably doesn't weigh 2 lbs. Even with all the other piping, valving, and hoses I took off with it, I don't think I made 5 lbs. Oh well, now I can almost change plugs blind folded it's so easy.

 

I just installed headers and am planning to get rid of the air system also...couple of questions:

can i just remove/cut the rubber hose off the drivers side...I really dont feel like taking my intake off to get to the rear clamp....I will just use a pipe cutter to remove as much as i can for the passenger side.

2...can I use 1/4" aluminum for the blank-off plate on the header (i can get 1/8" stainless but would like to keep it light if i can...

I also will be deleting out the air system in the computor ..


thanks
Jack

 

nope, block plates, rip all that useless crap out

 

CCCCC

 

Originally Posted by gsxrjack
I just installed headers and am planning to get rid of the air system also...couple of questions:

can i just remove/cut the rubber hose off the drivers side...I really dont feel like taking my intake off to get to the rear clamp....I will just use a pipe cutter to remove as much as i can for the passenger side.

You can, but all it takes is a long screw driver to undo the little plastic clamp and you can pull the whole drivers side off without much effort.
2...can I use 1/4" aluminum for the blank-off plate on the header (i can get 1/8" stainless but would like to keep it light if i can...

Oh come on, use the stainless! That amount of weight difference isn't going to slow you down.I also will be deleting out the air system in the computor ..


thanks
Jack

was more concerned about the weight on the header pipe, I had read that some people's air tube cracked on the header....

I will see if i can get that clamp with a long screwdriver...

thanks

 

"was more concerned about the weight on the header pipe, I had read that some people's air tube cracked on the header"

I read that too. I don't think it was the cap's weight that caused the crack. Some headers crack or blow that air tube off without any additional weight on it beyond the factory piping that's attached. A couple grams one way or the other isn't going to affect that tube if it's properly welded in the first place. My $0.02. Aluminum will work fine, I was just thinking the stainless would expand and contract less.

 

How do i remove the AIR tube on the passenger side, the hard metal pipe, looks like it runs way back behind the intake?

 

^ I ended up pulling the maniold to fully remove the AIR system from my car. I have Kooks race headers w/o any air tubes... makes for a very clean look.

 

You need to hire a 3 year old with skinney hands to reach back behind the head and loosen the bolt:

 

Good pics Bill

 

dang I'll never get back there without pulling the intake, lol.

BTW, can you remove the air pump from under the car or do you have to pull the headlight?

 

Thanks STEVEN!


VIPERBLUELX

You remove the AIR Pump from under the Car. You remove the drivers side facia close out panel and the pump is right there! Jack the car and remove about 8 screws on the panel.

 

I've been following this post , and here is what does not add up. I've also herd that if you remove the air fitting from the header risers that they can crack the welds at the point where the AIR Tube is joined to the header tube. But it does not make sense. A block off plate will not weigh even close to an ounce, especially if you fab one out of aluminum. The steel AIR fittings are much more heavier that that. I removed the passengers side air fitting and replaced it with one that is shorter and bent differently to allow more room on that side to remote mount coils. there was a difference in weight. With the AIR fittings and strain from the attached hoses there has got to be more overall strain/weight on where the AIR fitting is welded to the header tube with the stock set up. The only difference would be the with a heavy block off plate the AIR tube would tend to vibrate because it would only be connected on one end and the vibration might cause cracks in the weld area if that original weld was done too hot and the surrounding area became crystallized during the welding process. This is quite possible and happens more times that folks know. That could be the reason that when this does happen people get them re-welded and don't have any problems after the re-weld process.
I also remember someone posting on the other site that they weighed their set up after removal and it weighed in at 14 lbs, which included the Pump, bolts, hoses, AIR fittings, Check valves, and wire harness etc. Sorry I went so long.

 

In an ideal situation, you should always use the same material. If the headers are stainless, use stainless. If steel, use steel. This way, the thermal expansion of the joints is matched, so you don't have to worry about leaks or loosing fasteners.

That's in theory. In reality, for this situation, I don't think it makes much of a difference at all. Aluminum should be fine.

 

Is the harness I circled the harness for the AIR pump? I didn't want to remove the pump so I just unplugged this harness and now I'm getting ABS/Traction control service warnings?

 

I weighed everything I took off of mine for the air pump at 8 pounds. I got the passenger side metallic air hose unbolted but then couldn't get it wiggled out due to the factory bends in it. Mr Hacksaw fixed that real good...

 

I just installed ARH race headers and I just removed the AIR fuse in the engine bay. I plan on taking the system out, I just did that so I know the pump won't turn on. Its fuse #50 btw.