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Who has done the long forgotten thermostat modification. Wondering if you found any aftermarket readily available shims? My understanding is a 1/8" brass ferrule will work but am wondering if anyone has found something better.
Shim under the shaft to reduce the opening temperature. I just picked up a new one to play with, or screw up as the case may be.
Not too many people doing this any more since there are aftermarket ones available, but all the people I spoke with have found they are very inconsistent with regards to actual opening temp to what it is actually supposed to open at.
Shim under the shaft to reduce the opening temperature. I just picked up a new one to play with, or screw up as the case may be.
Not too many people doing this any more since there are aftermarket ones available, but all the people I spoke with have found they are very inconsistent with regards to actual opening temp to what it is actually supposed to open at.
Nah, just the opposite; tried a Hypertech and sold it. I had to adjust mine once, so two disassemble / reassemble processes to get it perfect (180 degrees).
I used a slice from a 10mm aluminum bolt I had laying around (race bike parts). Fit great, easy to file to adjust the length. I should have measured the length, I could have passed it on and saved you the trial and error.
I used a slice from a 10mm aluminum bolt I had laying around (race bike parts). Fit great, easy to file to adjust the length. I should have measured the length, I could have passed it on and saved you the trial and error.
Good info, I will see what's available in the shop at work. Hopefully they have some aluminum rod. From what I understand, 1/10" is about right. Only problem I have now is my fingers are sore from assembly/disassembly
Anyone got a how-to on this? Because I pulled mine apart and cut 2 coils off the spring and reinstalled it and it's now opening at 180? That's what my tuner told me to do, didn't say anything about a shim...
Anyone got a how-to on this? Because I pulled mine apart and cut 2 coils off the spring and reinstalled it and it's now opening at 180? That's what my tuner told me to do, didn't say anything about a shim...
Got this information out of my HP Book Chevy LS1/LS6 Performance, page 58. They dont say any thing about cutting the spring. What they say is once you have it apart, is to get a 1/8-inch brass ferrule to work as a spacer because it is easily filed down to the appropriate thickness. Make sure it is a loose fit in the housing to allow expansion. A spacer of approx. .090-inch thickness makes for a thermostat opening temp. of about 168 degrees.This is the minimum temp. that will allow the thermostat to close completely. The book has pictured directions of this process. My question to you is, why not get a new cooler running thermostat? I know I wouldn"t be messing around with this mod on my 03 Z. Too much risk of having a heating problem, and with these motors, you could cause some useless dammage. Hope this helps, Good luck. Bob.
Got this information out of my HP Book Chevy LS1/LS6 Performance, page 58. They dont say any thing about cutting the spring. What they say is once you have it apart, is to get a 1/8-inch brass ferrule to work as a spacer because it is easily filed down to the appropriate thickness. Make sure it is a loose fit in the housing to allow expansion. A spacer of approx. .090-inch thickness makes for a thermostat opening temp. of about 168 degrees.This is the minimum temp. that will allow the thermostat to close completely. The book has pictured directions of this process. My question to you is, why not get a new cooler running thermostat? I know I wouldn"t be messing around with this mod on my 03 Z. Too much risk of having a heating problem, and with these motors, you could cause some useless dammage. Hope this helps, Good luck. Bob.
THAT IS MY QUESTION EXACTLY. WHAT IS THE BENEFIT IN DOING IT THIS WAY VERSUS JUST BUYING A 180 THERMOSTAT?
sorry I missed this post; I just posted about the "shaft-shimming mod" on the other post by Viper.
Making the little shim was super-easy, just cut off a nail to about 0.060-0.080" I just chucked an appropriate-size hardware nail in the vise, cut it off, and filed it a little to get it the proper length - took 3 minutes. I used 0.060", and my thermo opens at 183, curises at 183-187 depending on weather. Don't make the nail too long, be sure the thermo valve still closes at room temp, so you get quick warm-up.
Is this better than cutting the spring - well, it's easily reversible, and easily adjustable, if you have another nail!
Is this better than a Hypertech 180? About $60 better; if you have a vise, hacksaw, and file, and don't pay too much for the nail. And you don't mind taking the thermo apart. Whole deal is maybe ten minutes, including finding the right nail.
Does it do anything for the engine performance?
Heck, I have the throttle-body coolant line bypass and the performance hood seal too, all hand-made. but I still can't outrun a new Z06. I just like to piddle!
THAT IS MY QUESTION EXACTLY. WHAT IS THE BENEFIT IN DOING IT THIS WAY VERSUS JUST BUYING A 180 THERMOSTAT?
Well, for one its cheaper. More important and the reason I did this was almost everyone I spoke with told me they had bought an aftermarket and it didn't open when it should. Some even told me they ran hotter after the aftermarket thermostat. A lot of guys tested them compared to their stock unit and found out they didn't open when they were advertised.
With this approach, I can adjust the thermostat to exactly where I want it to open and it won't be like rolling the dice on an aftermarket unit.
I don't like cutting the spring. I know that the stock thermostat is designed to also provide some back pressure (or at least I have read this) to keep the pump from cavitating at higher RPM. I would be nervous about adjusting the characteristics of that spring.