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I have C5 size wheels for my C3 and am wondering about the OEM emt tires. I do not have a spare tire so it would be nice to have the run flat. I was also considering BFGoodrich g-force T/A. I am just looking for some opinions, Thanks!
Very expensive, very noisey after 15k or so, lots of piece of mind if that's important to you.
Don't know about the noise after 15k, my oem's were 1998's. Just had new ones put on but haven't driven car other than home from shop. Goodyear store had them on sale, 255.44 front & 320.44 rear. I drive cross country so piece of mind is important to me
Michelin Pilot Sport Runflats are the popular RF choice instead of OEMs. They perform better in most conditions and are less expensive (tirerack has the best price).
Well their heavier than most. "Significant" is hard to quantify. I have 22k on mine aqnd I just drove 700 miles at 70-80 mph in a driving rain through KY and WV and I'm satisfied.
Are the RFs significantly heavier? I am not worried about the noise, but I do care about how the tire performs.
They are 6 lbs heaver per tire, so in my book, that's significantly heavier. Really, if you want the highest level of performance, do not buy runflats. Most leaks are very rare and very slow, so getting to an air pump or tire shop is normally not a problem.
If you're not the kind of person who carries a spare alternator or battery with you, why suffer daily with runflats? Hey, that's just my opinion and maybe because I've had only 2 leaky tires in the 34 years I've been driving has made an impression that governs my tire-buying decisions, but....
By the way, I owned a 68 for almost 22 years and the last thing one needs is tires that have super-stiff sidewalls. You'll be side-hopping into the weeds the first time you take a corner on less-than-glassy-smooth road surfaces.
Six pounds of un-sprung weight is significant. I agree most leaks with modern tires are slow enough to get to a gas station. Anyone use the BFgoodrich g-force tires, the ones where each tire is different?
The suspension under my car has been modified (geometry) enough to reduce some of the problems associated with the c-2/c-3 suspension.
Didn't like them. They have good grip in corners but were very noisy. Additionally, I had a couple of occasions at speed in a corner where the car bounced significantly over bumps, scared the hell outa me. I feel this is related to the stiff sidewall of the run-flat. This trait has been noted in road test reviews of C6 cars. Have not noticed this with non-runflats.
Six pounds of un-sprung weight is significant. I agree most leaks with modern tires are slow enough to get to a gas station. Anyone use the BFgoodrich g-force tires, the ones where each tire is different?
The suspension under my car has been modified (geometry) enough to reduce some of the problems associated with the c-2/c-3 suspension.
My 68 had the Vette Brakes & Products GT suspension package (new springs and fiberglass leafs in the rear), polyurethane bushings, and Bilstein shocks. It still side-hopped more than I would've liked.
The BF Goodrich KDWs are great dry-surface tires and the KDW2s are much better on wet roads. However, they ARE noisier than the Goodyear GSD3s and many others, so keep that in mind.
There appears to be a myth about the tread wear of stock RFs.
When I bought my car it had 13,000 miles on the clock and the stock RF tires looked pretty good. I was told that they would only last about 20,000 miles. At 33,000 miles they still looked good - meaning they had a lot of tread left and we had a good time driving the car - plenty of high speed cornering and WOT take offs.
But the tires were stiff, noisy and the bump steer was a real pain.
Decided to switch to GoodYear GSD3s. Have put about 12,000 on these tires and they still look like new. I believe this set will easily go 40,000 or more.
Unless you get an ultra sticky hi-performance tire you should expect between 30,000 and 50,000 out of a set of tires. That said, after a few years the tread will look fine but the rubber will start to dry out and they may not have the same performance or won't be safe at the top limit of the speed rating and should be changed out anyway regardless of the tread wear.
I had 2 nails in my tires in 2 3 years in vegas and a broken TPS valve stem here. All would have stranded me without runflats so I'm sold.
I wouldn't buy the OEM RFs. They were spec'd to meet 200 miles flat and have very stiff sidewalls and tramline badly. The Michelin AS ZPs I have now are streets ahead in both performance and handling. JMHO.
I had 2 nails in my tires in 2 3 years in vegas and a broken TPS valve stem here. All would have stranded me without runflats so I'm sold.
I wouldn't buy the OEM RFs. They were spec'd to meet 200 miles flat and have very stiff sidewalls and tramline badly. The Michelin AS ZPs I have now are streets ahead in both performance and handling. JMHO.
If your TPS system is working you would have had plenty of warning to fix the tires before going flat. The OP however doesn't have this system but like others have said a C3 is a lot stiffer ride then the C5 so I would go with non-runflats and get a fix a flat kit for a C3. I have GY GSD3's and the Continental fix a flat kit if needed. So what if I have to replace the Tire Pressure Sensor. The odds are this will not happen. The ride, traction and better control are well worth it.