and I need to check my sway bar end links to see if they are broken (they're plastic?).

A quick check on a couple websites and ebay tells me C5 Z06 sway bars are in the $300 range, C5 Z06 shocks are 400ish....that sound right? The Koni's are out I think...really expensive.

 

I've got a completely stock 99 MN6 with 80,000 miles. I bought it 5 years ago and was never satisfied with the way it handled. It was always a bit "uncomfortable" - the rear end felt like it wanted to come around to the front on curves - typical oversteer. I switched from the stock runflats to all season Pirellis and had it aligned several times by different shops. Several weeks ago I was researching on this site and followed someone's recommendation to adjust the pressure in the tires. Instead of 30 pounds cold all around, I switched to 29 up front and 32 in the rear. I would have bet the car that it wouldn't make a noticable difference, but I would have lost this beautiful machine. The difference was night and day. The car now feels balanced. On curves I now feel, very clearly, neither over nor understeer. I simply would not have believed the difference. You might give it a try before spending any more money. Good luck.

 

I may have to check that (29 front 32 rear) out. I checked them last night, they all (except the right rear) had 32 lbs in them. RR had 29. I set them all to 30. Haven't had a chance to try it out. While putting brakes on the back last night, I did check out the sway bar links, they are not broken. Haven't looked at the front yet.

 

I run 32 up front and 30 in the rear and it handles fine

 

Well it/s been a while since I posted anything on this subject. I had the front end checked out and aligned and also put some tires on it (stock run flats). I haven't driven the car much since making those changes, at least not real agressively. I went to Eureka Springs this weekend for Corvette weekend...got in some caravans...and drove it fairly agressively. I gotta fix something or sell this thing....in the curves (which were rutty) that thing had a mind of it's own. Darting left and right. I got on this forum looking for info again and found my old post. I also read other posts which mentioned something I'd noticed before but hadn't commented on...under acceleration, the front must lift some and it really gets squirrely. I'm not talking about doing a burnout. I'm talking about passing someone on a narrow 2 lane when you are already running 55 or so....you better have both hands on the wheel or there could be trouble. So if everything checked out on the front end, I've had an alignment, tires are new....are C6z06 shocks the next biggest bang for my buck? Will they fix that tramlining? Wouldn't seem like they would. My suspension is FE1, now have 41K on it. Are my shocks worn smooth out or did FE1's act like this when new? From what I've read tonight shocks, then sway bars, then springs in order of magnitude to fix these problems. I'm of average to above average mechanical skills and can do the shocks, sway bars myself I think....how do you swap out the springs. Are springs a take it to the shop thing? It's not a daily driver. I don't take it to the track. I do want it to handle much better...and safely. No fun at all like it is. Thanks in advance for advice.

 

do you still have the plastic end links? I bought 2 months ago my first C5 and I also am not happy with the handling of this car. My previous vet was a 96 vert base suspension car that i put polyurathane sway bar bushings on and it handled way better than this car. I think my C5 is a Z51 judging by the sway bar size. It only has 24000 on it. I got the polyurothane bushings and it helped alot. It is a 2002 so it has metal end links on it already, but I am considering an upgrade to the zip products units ( I live 15 miles from Zip) Anyone else used these? I am also going to lower the car (for looks and lower center of gravity) which does help cornering. It's at it's worst accelerating through a corner, it pitches and rolls left on right curves. As far as a shock option I've got adjustable QA1's on my race car and I used them on my other vette, both cars could run circles around this car so I will most likely buy some for this car later. If anyone has any suggestions for me they would be greatly appretiated!

Thanks in advance,
Dave

 

see if you can borrow a set of non run flats for the front and see if it feels better.

 

We have an 04 vert that is stock.

little over 12,000 miles. on the OEM GY run flats.

I changed the alignment slightly last winter, from the Original to what I would call a modest alignment, but most ppl would say aggressive street.

front
camber: -1.0*
caster: Max but equal on both sides
Toe: 1/8" OUT

Rear
Camber: -0.5*
Toe: 1/8" IN

Drop the Cold tire pressure to 31psi front and 30 psi rear.
Still stock right height on stock FE1 suspension.

Wife said what did I do? car handles much better.

The OEM run flats still look good tread depth, but we all know that tread depth has nothing to do with grip.


The FE1 suspension is just fine with the right tires and proper alignment.

 

I have a 98 C5 with the base suspension. I thought it handled well in stock form, but man what a difference it is with the C6 Z51 swaybars and PFADT coilovers!!! The rear no longer wants to kick out, and the car goes exactly where you point it! It handles so much better!!

 

Did you have the front aligned with a little toe in as I suggested back in June? Tramlining is a function of the alignment and the GY run flats. The more negative camber you put in the worse the tramlining will be. The car will follow any rut or pavement seam that it encounters if the toe is set at 0 or with toe out. Make sure you have enough toe in at the rear as well. Start with GM Service Preffered settings without tolerances. The tolerances are what the alignment guys hide behind when it gets hard to hit the mark.

When I started running a little toe in on my 97 the Tramlining pretty much went away. When I switched to Firestone Run Flats it went away all together.

One thing that could affect the alignment is the control arm bushings. Check them to make sure the control arms have not ridden back on the bushings.

Another thing to check is to see if the alignment cams have slipped. Alignment techs may not all be the brightest bulbs in the batch and they may not tighten the cams enough to keep them from slipping. This happened to me this year and I had a massive thrust angle misalignment that drove my 03Z crazy on right turns.

Even with the base suspension the car will handle well with run flats. A bimmer should not out handle it. I have been running C5s on road courses for 12 years and instructing people who drive them for 5 years. They handle very well.

Bill

 

Well, no I didn't ask them to set it in a little like you suggested. Mainly because I don't know how to ask for a little or what a little is. Probably should have queried you a little more on that. He set it at factory specs - he gave me the readout when he finished and my wife tossed it so I can't tell you what he set it at. Taking it to a different guy here in town that is supposed to know what he's doing around Vettes to see if something is broken or worn out on itor if I got a bad alignment. Shouldn't be anything worn out with 41k on it. I also him to drive it to tell me if I'm imagining it or just a whiner.

So the other thing I may have not mentioned before is that I noticed that the inside of the front tires are wearing/cupping....seems like someone told me that was nornal on C5's? Would increased toe in improve that or make it worse?

Thanks again...

 

^^the wear on the inner portion of the front tires is probably due to camber and is normal on these cars since they run negative camber.

 

I have an 02 and had same problems... I was scared to take sharp turns. Here is what I did and the car is now excellent on corners:

1) got rid of Runflats and installed PS2 265/35R18 and 305/30R19
2) lowered the car 1.25 inches and added more negative camber
3) upgrade the factory shocks to Koni Sport shocks

I did all this one shot. What a difference!!!

Good Luck

PS. Make sure that all the bushings are tight. Its low miles, but the bushings already have their age.

Rod