I had the column lock again (2nd time) and decided to get the CLB from adaptiveperformance.com (not trying to point fingers because it may not be their fault, just seeing if anyone had similiar problems). I shook the wheel back and forth to release it and then installed the column lock. The wheel was moving but for a short time then it locked up again with the fix installed.

I do not know what is the best thing to do. I am going to tow it to the GM dealership (yes I know after reading the CLB stickied thread) and I guess ask them to remove the lock plate alltogether?

Any advice would gladly be appreciated, thank you.

 

The key here is you must completely retract the locking pin (the motor must work long enough to accomplish this). Once that is complete, with the CLB properly installed the motor is never energized again. Your post indicates "it locked up again"; that does not compute.

 

thanks for the swift response. How do I completely retract the locking pin?

 

The CLB I bought came with a small wire with a plug on one end that fits the Column Lock motor's plug and a cigarette lighter plug on the other end. If the lock is engaged, you plug it in to 12V and the locking pin retracts. Then you install the CLB and the motor never sees 12V again. Perhaps your kit was not complete.

 

First thing to do is make sure that your battery is 100% CHARGED AND IN GOOD CONDITION.

Then read and post your DTCs

Then clear ALL of the DTCs. If there is a column lock DTC/s set, it may effect the proper operation of the circuit.

Then use the key and see if the column lock operates normaly. If it does:

Once the DTCs are cleared, use the power cord supplied with the column lock to cause the column lock motor to retract the bolt. Then install the column lock bypass. If you follow the bypass procedure, it should work like it is suppose to.

Just incase you dont know how to read and clear DTCs,,,here you go:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

These are the absolute best C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!!

http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html
http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index.html


Go to “technical data base” and then to “Corvette ECM Computer Codes”. Then select your year car. Read the instructions and then scroll down to the "READ MORE" window to view the code definitions.\

Here is another very good site:

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!


BC

 

I tried using their cigarette adapter-plugged it in and it didn't work.

 

Yep, this is crucial to eliminate the actuator from the equation. Also, pay attention to Bill Curlees' information.

 

When I did mine, it didn't work at first either. . Not to be discouraged,,,I did a little investigative research with a volt meter and found out that the damn fuse inside the adapter had blown. They used a fuse that was obviously severely underrated for the purpose it was being used for. So,, a quick fuse changes and the bolt retracted like magic and its been good ever since.

So, check the output of that adapted, make sure that your plugging it into the correct harness for the column lock actuator,, and check and clear the DTCs and when you energize the column lock motor and the bolt retracts, make sure it is fully retracted by turning the steering wheel side to side at least 90 degs

Take a look at that fuse and make sure its good and also make sure that the steering wheel isnt binding on the column lock bolt. If the bolt has burs on it,,,sometimes it will hang up and not retract.

If you jack up the front of the car so the wheels are off the ground, center the steering wheel, that will take all pressure off that bolt and maybe your bolt motor will work better.

Trying to exhaust all methods to get you back on the road trouble free!

BC

BC

 

make sure you are getting power to the cigarette lighter, most of use never use it, may not be working, put mine in last week, and when i plug in the adaper i could here it unlock,

 

Yep,,,that would cause the problem too!! Good thinking!!!!

BC

 

Thanks a lot Bill, I am going to try your methods after it stops rain storm here.