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The end result of this header debate will be the higher priced domestic made header will come down in price to stay competitive and will have to look for ways to cutcosts and stay competitive which translates into outsourcing and cost of materials which means you get a header with a familar american namewith most of the materials and or laborcoming from place that can produce them for a price thats competitive like it or not ,dudes, it's capitalism,an economic system that has made this country the greatest.that's how we killed Russia we just made more $$ and outspent them.It' a world economy, get on the train or get left at the station.When something is overpriced SOMEBODY is coming in and gonna sell it cheaper if not OBX it woulda been somebody else,where a buck is to be made someone will be there supply and demand sets the price.
They've gone up in price from the early postings. I got mine without a group discount for around $700. Adding cats are another $200-300, if you don't have them laying around like I did, plus they had to be modified for a ball flange.
If you add up the labor charges from someone else, it adds to the price if you can't do the work yourself by a considerable amount.
3 hours to modify the cats and have them rewelded.
1 hour to reweld the driver side O2 bung so the O2 sensor doesn't hit the transmission tunnel plate. This can be ommitted if you are willing to cut a hole in the plate instead.
1 hour to dimple the transmission tunned plate to give a bit more clearance for the o2 wiring on both sides. I could have given a little more angle on the side I rewelded. I saw Jesse James do this with a bike tank and it works great with just a ball peen hammer and supporting the back with a sand bag.
1 hour for adding another o2 bung for an external wideband O2 sensor.
1 hour for dimpling the driver side header where it's resting on the bell housing
This also didn't include new wire for the welder (for welding 304) and a small bottle of Argon for the welder.
.....So you can kind of filter through what I did and draw up a list yourself. I'm probably pickier than most on how I do things, plus everything was done in my garage except the first welding on the CATs. I didn't have the right wire at the time. In the end, the LG's may have been a better deal. It depends on your skill level and what you want to have a shop do.
and one other thing I forgot, the O2 sensor extension for $40 (2 x$20) You could easiy extend the wires yourself with some wire, solder, heat shrink and heat shielding for about 10-20 bucks.
So, I fail to see where the amazing savings comes into play. It cost about $1,040. plus the hassle of re-doing things which = more money to most. I paid $1,350. for my LG's with cats, X-pipe and o2 simulators and shipping included. I'm seeing about a $300-400. difference and no hassle of cutting & re-welding anything. Seems like a few hundred bucks is worth paying for a high quality set of headers that are made in the USA.
compare new to new. if you're ok w/ resonators this fits fine w/ no mods other than the trans tunnel plate. The collector resting on the bellhousing will add no NVH. I had both my other sets do this also (expensive kind)
compare new to new. if you're ok w/ resonators this fits fine w/ no mods other than the trans tunnel plate. The collector resting on the bellhousing will add no NVH. I had both my other sets do this also (expensive kind)
Dave
That was new. Youre wrong if you think any one part should "rest" on any other part. I had nothing rubbing on anything with the LG's or the TPIS's. I also didnt have to cut up my tunnel plate to fit the o2 's....
every brand of LT's ive had on the c5 have touched the bell housing in one way or another. The LG's even have to clearance for the o2 sensor from what i've heard. The dynatech cleared the plate but hit the bell housing. Not a problem at all in over 40k miles.. No extra NVH as the bellhousing is attached rigidly to the same thing the header is so they move in conjunction w/ each other, no banging, etc.
So, I fail to see where the amazing savings comes into play. It cost about $1,040. plus the hassle of re-doing things which = more money to most. I paid $1,350. for my LG's with cats, X-pipe and o2 simulators and shipping included. I'm seeing about a $300-400. difference and no hassle of cutting & re-welding anything. Seems like a few hundred bucks is worth paying for a high quality set of headers that are made in the USA.
I say again, it depends how picky you are about the installation. I can weld stainless so it's not an issue. I also wanted to isolate the exhaust heat away from the bottom so adding a hole to the tranmission tunnel plate kind of goes against that.
- Do you mind dimpling and or cutting a hole in the tranmission tunnel plate?
- Do you mind dimpling the tube so it doesn't rest on the bell housing. Is the contact a problem? I don't know. The bell housing moves with the engine so it won't rattle, but will the heat be a problem? Again I don't know, I just didn't like it there.
I'm sure they will make the horspower number, that isn't the issue. It's "are you willing to deal with more fitment problems." I can't even say for sure that every other brand will be perfect either. What is good enough for one guy may not be good enough for another guy.
The bottom line is I am happy with the product. Hot rodding a car is always going to have it's challenges when you modify a car. You should try doing an engine swap with a different engine where there is no after market part available. I put a small block into a 240 z , which is a failrly common swap. Full length headers weren't even available for the kit I used. A full exhaust wasn't available either. You just have to keep in mind you are doing this for fun. This is an expensive hobby so you do it increments you can afford. Nobody set a time frame on when it has to be done or even defined what done is.
just re moved them to rebuild the transmission and put the 3 rd clutch in they look great would not ever buy any thing els they have 10000 miles on them 455 at the wheels now with a spec stage 3 plus and aluminum pressure plate option this clutch is great it is holding 550 crank hp dont buy the expensive headers these are great for me 600 shipped
So, I fail to see where the amazing savings comes into play. It cost about $1,040. plus the hassle of re-doing things which = more money to most. I paid $1,350. for my LG's with cats, X-pipe and o2 simulators and shipping included. I'm seeing about a $300-400. difference and no hassle of cutting & re-welding anything. Seems like a few hundred bucks is worth paying for a high quality set of headers that are made in the USA.
until you are open minded enough to buy them you will fail to see the savings. you do NOT have to buy a thing or redo anything to make these fit. You may have to dimple the trans plate or bend the o2 a bit but MANY expensive systems require this too (LG). Everything else is perfect!! High quality and USA in the same sentence? Haha, have you driven a car built in the US in recent years? The vette is the only one I will ever drive again and even that is light years behind the build quality of my hyundai that cost about 1/4 of the vette.
until you are open minded enough to buy them you will fail to see the savings. you do NOT have to buy a thing or redo anything to make these fit. You may have to dimple the trans plate or bend the o2 a bit but MANY expensive systems require this too (LG). Everything else is perfect!! High quality and USA in the same sentence? Haha, have you driven a car built in the US in recent years? The vette is the only one I will ever drive again and even that is light years behind the build quality of my hyundai that cost about 1/4 of the vette.
Dave
My LG headers did not require any (THATS ANY) dimples, bending or hamering on anything PERIOD. And as far as a US built car, I've been looking at the Cadillac CTS 4 lately and its quite the vehicle. I'd venture to say its nicer than any Hyundai made including the Genesis. And the price is very close on the 2 cars.
I'd really have to see a set of LG's in a vette to really determine if it was worth it or not. Like I said before, I'm picky about the way things fit.
How much clearance do you need? I have no idea how much the engine jumps around when you mash the gas so I gave minimum of about a quarter inch. The bell housing only clears by an eighth, but it moves in unison with the headers. It was heat I was trying to avoid there.
Sorry, this was on a Z that I dont have anymore, so I dont have a better pic of the bellhousing area. From what I recall, there was at least 3/8" to 1/2" of clearance. It was a true bolt and go install.
Well in hindsight I probably would have gone with the LGs, but none the less I'm still happy with my OBX's. It just would have saved me a couple of days of work. My cats would have fit. Although I have heard other guys having to reround the cat connections.
One problem area I do see with the LG's is the rear end. If you have the ECS diff brace you are either going to have to shorten the x connection up or dimple them. Then again dimpling is not what I'd call difficult. If you want to keep it pretty, use a press or what I did, a body dolly with a sledge hammer. I suppose you could even use a softer dolly to prevent marring the finish, something I don't care about since you can't see any of it once the car is down.
I will be doing my OBX install this next week. The install will include cats. I have bought some cats and will be hacking up the resonators to weld the connections onto them.
you could probably just flare the cat pipe. That will seal fine w/ the donut gasket and appears to be what obx does.
Dave
I wanted to do that, but I couldn't find anybody who could flare it. I would also be cautious about putting to much pressure on a ceramic cat. I would assume a metalic cat could take more abuse, but that's just a guess.
BTW, I used a v-block and spun the cat against a grinder with a cutting wheel. I wouldn't use a chop saw for that, the blade tends to walk out and give an annoying crooked cut.
Last edited by chevylad; May 23, 2009 at 08:26 PM.
a band saw would work also. Expanding the pipe shouldn't affect that cat as its a few inches from the internal materials. You could always heat the pipe to put less stress on it also.